Jump to content
SAU Community

which motul oil?


Driver
 Share

Recommended Posts

I use the 300V Chrono 10-40 in the GTR ~$40 per 2litres.

Probably best to give motul a call on: 1800 777 958

Same, except in the Gtst :(

SOME autobahn stores stock it, even if they dont, they will order it in for you

Link to comment
Share on other sites

JimX... I travel at least 1100kms/week, and I've noticed that since changing to Motul 8100 I've seen better gains in my fuel economy (bowt 30-40kms extra), it's not much but appealing to me :)

- Performing better in general than what it did with Mobil1

- Comes up to normal engine temp quicker

- Gear changing smoother

- Car is alot quieter, and I now call her p u s s y :headspin:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

JimX... I travel at least 1100kms/week, and I've noticed that since changing to Motul 8100 I've seen better gains in my fuel economy (bowt 30-40kms extra), it's not much but appealing to me :)

- Performing better in general than what it did with Mobil1  

- Comes up to normal engine temp quicker

- Gear changing smoother

- Car is alot quieter, and I now call her p u s s y  :headspin:

Motul 8100 is thinner than Mobil 1 (5W-40 vs 5W-50) so it doesn't surprise me that the 8100 gets you better economy. You would get better economy again by using a 5W-30 oil. The other things you say I'm not sure how that works or why it's necessarily better because of it.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not dissing your 8100 oil :D I use it myself too. I have found it to be better in one important way, in that it keeps the inside of your engine clean. But other than that, whether it's a better oil than any other synthetic other than Castrol (which gunked up my engine) I wouldn't know.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been using Motul 4100 for the last ~50,000km. Last oil change I put in Motul 8100 and immediately noticed my engine is more "noisey". At my local Autobahn the 4100 = $50 and the 8100 = $70.

If you can only get the 300V in 2L containers you'll need 3x 2L :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have found it to be better in one important way, in that it keeps the inside of your engine clean. But other than that, whether it's a better oil than any other synthetic other than Castrol (which gunked up my engine) I wouldn't know.

Yep, I'm hoping that next week when I do my oil change that the oil I drain out is similar to what I put in... I used Mobil1 for 2 oil changes and both times I had the putrid black death oil fill my oil pan... Wasn't happy, did a bit of research and went for Motul.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've tried several different brands, but have found from personal experience that the Motul 8100 is best so far...  

As CK said, can someone please explain what ester synthetic is???

I didnt know this, all i can say is god bless google

PAO, short for poly-alpha-olefine

. Esters are mostly made of vegetables, minerals, and animal fatty acids. Motul’s® esters contain a lot of coconut derivatives. Esters are much more expensive because the ingredients all have to be collected from natural resources and synthesized (a very expensive process) in smaller quantities. Esters have all the advantages of a PAO but more of them. Esters can handle heat better than PAO’s and when burned, esters leave far less coking deposits. Esters are static types of oils and are attracted to metal parts with an electro-chemical bond. This means no more metal to metal start ups. This also means that a film is there before the oil pressure light goes out preventing premature wear of high-stressed parts like cam lobes. The film created is up to 5 times stronger then petroleum oil.

The number one reason to run an ester synthetic oil is bond. The electro-chemical bond is made because the ester molecule is polar. Sort of like a refrigerator magnet. It is attracted to metal and sticks.The PAO molecules are neutral and act like a piece of plastic placed on the fridge. They just fall off. All commercial jet plane flying, use an ester synthetic of some type and not a PAO. You need to run an ester of some sort for maximum protection.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There are fixes for this. In industry we use compressed air for everything. It is frequently wet, and many things cannot tolerate it. So there are various forms of driers available that you can install. The simplest option for something like this would be a dessicant drier. Much cheaper to replace some silica gel than actuator cylinders.
    • That's a solid update mate, well done at WA FOS. You may already know this, but the actuators on the paddle shift are a service item and are sadly not that reliable. As I understand it they collect water from the compressor (condensation) which then rusts the bores/pistons in the actuators. A mate of mine had no end of trouble with them in one if his circuit cars, apparently it's a 'known issue'. Buy a couple of spares at great expense to ensure you never have any problems with the ones you've got! Any clues about what the new WTAC rules might be? While faster cars are cool the Pro class arms race has got to the point where you wouldn't even bother entering without a $1m budget and even then I don't think you'd win.  
    • https://nissan.epc-data.com/skyline/er34/3945-rb25det/trans/317/31940N/ The pictures of the part you're talking about is clearly not just one solenoid. You can see another picture of it here: https://www.alltranz.com.au/shop/drivetrain/automatic-transmission/RE5R01A/product/9305/ The 4 speed automatic in the GTT is Nissan corporate stuff. You can search up similar jobs done on a Frontier or Pathfinder with a RE4R01B to get an idea for what the internals are going to look like and the procedure like this:   
    • Hi Chris,   long time since your post, just wondering if you have the Pinout for the v35 stereo plugs, I bought the roem nis2 harness but it doesn’t match the v35 connector. any help appreciated, I can work out the grn and power constant. But the rest might be hard. thanks Tyson
×
×
  • Create New...