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Ignition system RB26 R32/R34

petiseb
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BK Grand Master

BK

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Posted

It definitely will be more reliable, but if you're going to go through the effort of a coil change and loom change to delete the ignitor module the R35 coils make more sense to use instead of the R34 coils.

The R35 coils provide around double the spark energy compared to any RB based coil. Increased dwell time settings are required to make the most of them within the ECU though. Looking at your car I assume you'd already have an ECU capable of this anyway, like a Haltech, Link, MoTeC. Even Power FC can change the dwell with FC edit, although it's in firing angle instead of dwell msec.

Impulr33rowner Apprentice

Impulr33rowner

Posted
Posted (edited)

It's got a link ECU, only because I was considering adding a fuel module so it can run e85. Hence the better ignition. I don't think the fuel side needs an upgrade as my mechanic that cleaned the injectors can't believe how much fuel they can pass. Got internal pump feeding surge tank to 2 x 340lph bosch fuel pumps feeding each side of injector rail. Good set up. As this Corona virus has isolated me from Perth I can't get a retune done. I could push for compassionate grounds. As my wife knows the only other love of my life is driving my car!!! I've just stripped down my diff as seized the pinion bearing. Not a nice experience when whole rear end is locked up!! Anyway was also wondering what the front and rear pinion bearings, driveshaft bearings and seals part no's were and where you'd suggest I should get them from??? I need my locker back, the lsd just doesn't track like a locker hey!! 

Edited by Impulr33rowner
Impulr33rowner Apprentice

Impulr33rowner

Posted
Posted
18 minutes ago, BK said:

It definitely will be more reliable, but if you're going to go through the effort of a coil change and loom change to delete the ignitor module the R35 coils make more sense to use instead of the R34 coils.

The R35 coils provide around double the spark energy compared to any RB based coil. Increased dwell time settings are required to make the most of them within the ECU though. Looking at your car I assume you'd already have an ECU capable of this anyway, like a Haltech, Link, MoTeC. Even Power FC can change the dwell with FC edit, although it's in firing angle instead of dwell msec.

Thanks for your advice and knowledge too because I've pretty well learnt everything I know along the way and would like to share my experiences too in the future!

Impulr33rowner Apprentice

Impulr33rowner

Posted
Posted
On 05/04/2020 at 11:45 AM, GTSBoy said:

Did you mean retune? If so, then not likely, no. Unless it was tuned on the ragged edge with the spark failing to burn all the fuel. In which case someone would need their arse kicked anyway.

Yeah I meant retune, bloody predictive text needs a good luck in the arse too!!

 

robbo_rb180 Grand Master

robbo_rb180

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, BK said:

It definitely will be more reliable, but if you're going to go through the effort of a coil change and loom change to delete the ignitor module the R35 coils make more sense to use instead of the R34 coils.

The R35 coils provide around double the spark energy compared to any RB based coil. Increased dwell time settings are required to make the most of them within the ECU though. Looking at your car I assume you'd already have an ECU capable of this anyway, like a Haltech, Link, MoTeC. Even Power FC can change the dwell with FC edit, although it's in firing angle instead of dwell msec.

 

48 minutes ago, Impulr33rowner said:

It's got a link ECU, only because I was considering adding a fuel module so it can run e85. Hence the better ignition. 

Bracket
https://platinumracingproductsusa.com/collections/rb-coil-bracket-kits/products/rb-r35-vr38-coil-bracket-kit-rb20-rb25-rb26
Coils
https://platinumracingproductsusa.com/collections/rb-coil-bracket-kits/products/oem-nissan-coils-for-rb-coil-bracket-oemcoils
Instructions
https://platinumracingproductsusa.com/pages/platinum-racing-nissan-rb-r35-vr38-coil-kit-excludes-neo
The Platinum Racing kit is pretty good, done a r34 & 2jz setups. Comes with everything & has online instructions. Start first go and no problems since. Only use genuine as have seen some issues with others.
The Link is able to to 3D dwell time adjustment, I can provide a map if required.

Impulr33rowner Apprentice

Impulr33rowner

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, robbo_rb180 said:

 

Bracket
https://platinumracingproductsusa.com/collections/rb-coil-bracket-kits/products/rb-r35-vr38-coil-bracket-kit-rb20-rb25-rb26
Coils
https://platinumracingproductsusa.com/collections/rb-coil-bracket-kits/products/oem-nissan-coils-for-rb-coil-bracket-oemcoils
Instructions
https://platinumracingproductsusa.com/pages/platinum-racing-nissan-rb-r35-vr38-coil-kit-excludes-neo
The Platinum Racing kit is pretty good, done a r34 & 2jz setups. Comes with everything & has online instructions. Start first go and no problems since. Only use genuine as have seen some issues with others.
The Link is able to to 3D dwell time adjustment, I can provide a map if required.

Massive difference in price and looks more trick than the other set up too, thanks a lot for pointing me in the right direction mate. Your a bloody legend!!!

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petiseb Rookie

petiseb

Posted
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Posted

I forgot to keep you informed, but last year, I installed r34 coils, a do luck r34 harness, so I removed the amplifier, and changed the socket on the motor side.  it works perfectly.

 

I remind you that my goal was simply to make it more reliable because I had micro cutouts, so my main goal was to remove the capricious element: the amplifier.

 

And also, I have a non-programmable mine’s ECU.  if I had a link or haltech, I would have taken r35 or r8 coils.

Impulr33rowner Apprentice

Impulr33rowner

Posted
Posted
18 hours ago, petiseb said:

I forgot to keep you informed, but last year, I installed r34 coils, a do luck r34 harness, so I removed the amplifier, and changed the socket on the motor side.  it works perfectly.

 

I remind you that my goal was simply to make it more reliable because I had micro cutouts, so my main goal was to remove the capricious element: the amplifier.

 

And also, I have a non-programmable mine’s ECU.  if I had a link or haltech, I would have taken r35 or r8 coils.

I have the same problem when I hit above 7500 to 8000 revs, I think the r35s are the way to go. I've got the car up for sale but I will probably keep if no one's willing to pay the 20k I'm asking and just keep improving her over time. My benefit their loss hey!

Impulr33rowner Apprentice

Impulr33rowner

Posted
Posted

20200409_125058.thumb.jpg.ab0ce8f9c4489055fcc96de555aa963f.jpgStill stuck on best place to get bearings/seals kit for my diff too. Plus tried many options to get part no's with very little luck, anyone point me in the right direction so I don't get ripped off!!! 

robbo_rb180 Grand Master

robbo_rb180

Posted
Posted

remove bearings, measure them and go to cbc or some other bearing retailer. Probably better of taking it to a gearbox/diff shop as will need to reset the backlash and will then have warranty.

 

Impulr33rowner Apprentice

Impulr33rowner

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, robbo_rb180 said:

remove bearings, measure them and go to cbc or some other bearing retailer. Probably better of taking it to a gearbox/diff shop as will need to reset the backlash and will then have warranty.

 

Cheers, I'm just trying to do it on the cheap but your right better to be safe than sorry hey!!

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