What is needed for an external wastegate

[JimX]

Yeah wtf is this thread about anyway? At first I thought it was a question about wastegates. Now I realise it should have just said "I can get my hands on a stolen turbo, and I want to know how to hook it up best with the money I saved". This whole thread should be deleted. Or maybe just change the thread to "hints and tricks to get your own stolen parts for a cheap hipo car"

[Cubes]

Hey that must be My turbo.. It was stolen recently.....

[R33_KRAZY]

hmm ok then well i think i will just take joels advice an replace my turbo with another stock 1 an get a good FMIC.....but how will this run with my stock ecu still in place..?? will it be good enough 2 last me till i get a power FC..??

so um yeah i kinda used my head an took u guys advice an wont get the turbo as u have a good point with the " i would be f**kin pissed if my 1 got knowcked off"

[Cubes]

Reason why I said get the FMIC first is there is no point spending money on two tunes.

If you get the PowerFC before the FMIC it will need to be tuned. Thats say $500.

Then you get the FMIC and it will need another tune. Thats another say $400.

If you get the FMIC it will make decent power, probably around 160-170rwkw depending on how your ecu handles the boost.

Then get yourself the PowerFC and pay $500 or so to get the 190rwkw.

Its about saving money.

Getting a powerfc and tuning it without an FMIC will make close to the same power as what just slapping a FMIC with a little more boost will.

Heading in to summer the FMIC will possibly save your engine should you feel the need for speed.

[JimX]

If you get the PowerFC before the FMIC it will need to be tuned. Thats say $500.

Then you get the FMIC and it will need another tune. Thats another say $400.

The first tune will cost a lot more than the second because they have to go through every load point to start with. The subsequent tunes should cost $200 or less. Even the first tune often costs way more than it should, rather than starting with a base tune a good workshop can start with one they know works good with similar mods and save a fair bit of time. But you still get charged the full amount

[R33_KRAZY]

hmm...so order of mods is...replace with stock turbo, get a good FMIC (will get a custom one done up 600x300xwateva thikness is best for 300kw) , then power fc an a good tune..

does all this sound right..?? thanx people..

[dnb]

no im considering getting a new garrett turbo that needs an external gate an just want 2 know wat it is going 2 cost me 2 modify my manifold 2 suit the external gate...??

this is a rb30 manifold modified for a turbosmart gate.i have made over 250rwkw with a little t04 on this manifold

[R33_KRAZY]

thanx dnb but these guys have talked out of buying stollen goods as

they are right...I WOULD BE PISSED IF IT WAS ME THAT HAD LOST IT...

[Cubes]

Nar its not so much about stolen goods its more so the point of doing mods in a certain order.

The FMIC is needed on the R33's to make decent power.

Then a PowerFC.

Then start looking at bigger turbo's and injectors.

You can always sell the RB25 turbo at a later date for decent money.

Providing you look after it.

Try to boost it a little less as with the stock IC there is a pressure drop up to 7psi at high rpm.

What that means is for the plenum to see 10psi you will have to push 17psi through the turbo.

Tim from RPM did this test a while back on a stocker R33.

I have the Zoom mag here some where.

7psi does sound high but even if it were 4psi.

That would be 14psi the turbo is pushing. Thats close to the limit of the ceramic exhaust wheels.

[R33_KRAZY]

so does the boost controller i have work of the manifold presure..??

you have me worried now cause my boost gauge used 2 always say

10psi even at redline....

[Cubes]

You adjust the bleeder or EBC to the reading from the plenum.

Boost guages take their reading from the plenum also.

Its nothing to worry about having 10psi with a stock IC but you wouldn't want any more.

Being young no doubt you have wound the car out through third and fourth a bit.

I haven't wound mine out through third for quite some time.. I can't remember the last time I did.

I guess this is why my little 20t turbo has lasted on 1.1bar.

BUT I didn't push until I had the fmic and a decent fuel pump.

Yours was seals anyway so don't stress.

10-11psi is fine.

[R33_KRAZY]

kewl thanx koel that info has given me a sigh of relief.....

ok so wat thikness cooler would u recomend for 250-300kw if i get a 600x300..??

an what is wrong with winding it right out in 3rd an 4th..?? cause yeah i will admit i do it a bit..!!

[Cubes]

The exhaust side of things get very hot when at high rpm, boost and load.

Some times you can pull over and the exhaust/turbo will blow glowing red.

I have never got mine glowing red maybe one day

The ceramic exhaust wheel doesn't like heat, this is why the exhaust wheel breaks when used for track work. Some even die running stock boost.

I've got the fueling quite a bit richer in the top end which helps keep things a bit cooler.

Yours would also be quite rich up top providing your fuel pump is in good order.

[R33_KRAZY]

ohh now i c why people get the wheels replced with steel 1's...

so um what would be a good after-market fuel pump 2 get just incase mine is gettin a bit bad..??

[predator]

and so it continues..

look just get another stock turbo on.. get the whole thing tuned and running correctly to 180rwkw or so.. and it should run at least low 14s or somewhere in the 13's.. and then if u have any money left (which you won't) consider other options later on. Unless you've driven close to 200rwkw, there is no point going straight to the next level.

[R33_KRAZY]

hey predator,

i wasnt saying thats wat i wanted 2 do i was just saying now i know y they get them steel

wheels put in...

so um can sum1 plz tell me wat size cooler to get..??

[JimX]

Get whatever size the guy you're buying the stolen turbo off has in stock. Probably score a 600x300 HKS one for $100.

[R33_KRAZY]

yeah of course jimX....not i have woken up 2 myslef an looked at it from a different pespective now..there is now way i am buying stollen goods..!! i would be F**king pissed if it was me that lost the gear so i figure that evry1 is right an i would be just as bad as the thief himself...

so really wat thikness should i get..i will get a 600x300....just need 2 know wat thikness is best 4 250-300kw....( i dont want 2 have 2 buy another 1 l8r)

[Bl4cK32]

Get a 600x300x70 something ie a gtr cooler....dont worry about the steel wheels...just dont overboost it. It will still make more than enough power.....

More questions to come no doubt.....

btw the previos owner of my car had the turbo (rb20) highflowed it cost $1200...a r33 turbo can be done for i thin $2000 from GCG. Ring them and ask them how much it costs....even with these two mods ie gtr cooler and high flow turbo (the steel wheel thingys) your still up for over $3000....get the picture?

[R33_KRAZY]

yeah i get the picture..ill just stick with the stock turbo an a good cooler 4 now then.... is there any other way 2 get the intercooler piping done like damn its worth more den the cooler its self...