Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, This is my first post here and i was just wondering about this performance chip i found it seemed alot cheaper than having a new ECU put in and Tuned & with it being so much cheaper i have started to wonder if its legitimate or if its just a giant scam (leaning more towards scam)

I was just wondering if any of you had any experience with this company or similar products and if so with the similar products would you recommend them?

https://havokengineering.com/products/havok-engineering-r33-rb25det-ecu-upgrade-chip-for-the-r33-ecu

 

edit:

I drive a Japanese Import R33 GTS-T (Not sure if it makes a difference)

Edited by heartless
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473798-r33-gts-t-performance-chip/
Share on other sites

Or get a Toshi remap, he sockets the ECU and pops in his own tunes which are made for Australian fuel and climate. 

He pulls out timing and moves the TP Load cut higher up so you won't get that dreaded "rich and retard" as many call it.

Didn't think so just wanted to double check thought it seemed a bit dodgy has anyone got any experience with a https://www.nengun.com/apexi/power-fc-new-el-hand-controller 

if so are they any good/would you recommend?

PowerFC is a relatively cheap & easy way to put an ECU into an R33.  It is VERY old tech now though.  If you want modern tech, then ANY other aftermarket ECU is miles better.  Haltech, Link and so on usually do plug in models for Skylines, making them just as easy to install.  Costs a bit more than a PFC usually though.

Nistune is still my preferred way to go about it for a stockish street car.  Use an R32 ECU with Nistune board and set up for R33, for less money than the above options.  It's still old tech, but it's OEM old tech which is still very good for running a dirty old RB, and it look standard so it's one less thing to get defected for.

And Nistune, although "old" still supports flex, reverse flex, launch control and very rudimentary engine protection such as cutting RPM when coolant temp is exceeded, OR cutting fuel when the TP Load limit is breeched.

PFC (for me personally, this is my personal opinion) should be a last option.

  • 2 weeks later...
1 hour ago, Birds said:

Think we need to know more about OPs setup before recommending ECUs. You could end up wasting a lot of money otherwise...

I think OP needs to do some research as all ECU options are continuously discussed at length

On 17/04/2018 at 6:58 PM, heartless said:

Didn't think so just wanted to double check thought it seemed a bit dodgy has anyone got any experience with a https://www.nengun.com/apexi/power-fc-new-el-hand-controller 

if so are they any good/would you recommend?

I used a secondhand power fc, is a good option on a budget build.  If you have lots of $$ then go a haltech... 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...