Brakes and suspension on M35?

[RS_Wags]

I bought an M35 last week and after trolling the forums all weekend I have a couple newb questions about brakes and suspension.... 

Looks like I'm running stock brakes at the moment and when I brake the car will shudder quite a bit, I haven't been able to get the car in the air yet, but I'm assuming it's warped rotors. I'm a why replace when you can upgrade sort of guy and from hunting around the boards it seems the 350z calipers and are a straight bolt on apart from possibly needing wheel spacers? Are there any specifics I need to know? Year range, model variants etc? 

I've also noticed a clunk in the suspension somewhere, looking at the notes from a service last year the mechanic said the was a knock in front shocks, so I'm assuming I'll be up for new suspension very soon. This is going to be my daily school bus/shopping trolley (got motorbikes for when I want to go proper fast), so I don't want it to be too stiff. I've seen a lot of people here recommend BC coilovers. I ran the V1's in my RS Liberty with Whiteline everything and even on the softest damper setting it was still quite hard (To be fair I'd stripped a lot of weight out of the RS, could have something to do with it?). Is any sort of ride comfort possible int he Stagea with the BC's? Or should I look at getting some Bilsteins with circlip grooves machined into them?

She's booked in at a good mechanic late next week for a proper going over, but I'd love to have a bit of info myself before then. Anyway I guess I should post some pics.

Edited April 21, 2018 by RS_Wags

[GTSBoy]

There is almost no such thing as warped rotors.  Almost 100% of "warped rotors" is actually just unevenly distributed pad material stuck onto the disc, usually caused by females driving like they do (do 120km/h up until 5m from a red traffic light then throw out the anchors at the last instant, braking like Nigel Mansell, then sit at the lights with the pedal firmly holding the pads onto the rotors), or males driving like females.

Just get them skimmed on the car, re-bed the brakes and drive them sensibly and see if they behave themselves until the natural end of their life.

As to the suspension, the days of anyone taking a recommendation for BCs seriously are (thankfully) loooooooooooong gone.  I would choose the Bilstein option, or, if coilovers are your thing, talk to MCA about what suits the best.

[RS_Wags]

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

There is almost no such thing as warped rotors.  Almost 100% of "warped rotors" is actually just unevenly distributed pad material stuck onto the disc,...

Cool, I'll throw a set of bigger brakes on at sometime, but would rather not have to do it a week or two after buying it.

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

As to the suspension, the days of anyone taking a recommendation for BCs seriously are (thankfully) loooooooooooong gone.  I would choose the Bilstein option, or, if coilovers are your thing, talk to MCA about what suits the best.

That's good to know. I keep telling myself I'll be sensible with this car, so I reckon I'll steer clear of coilovers. 

[Darkmeat]

Stagea rotors are only 296 x 24mm - not a lot of mass for heat dissipation.

For an easy, bolt-in upgrade, R34 GT-T front brakes are 310mm x 30mm rotors and 4 piston calipers.

Here's a shopping list ...

Front: R34 GT-T 4 piston calipers
310 x 30mm RDA Slotted Dimpled rotors: Part no. RDA 7597D
Project Mu HS400 pads: Part no. F236

Rear: Stagea NM35 calipers (standard)
296 x 24mm RDA Slotted Dimpled rotors: Part no. 7657D
Project Mu HS400 pads: Part no. R209

And HEL braided s/steel brake lines can replace the complicated stock system of hard lines, rubber lines and blocks, and give better pedal feel.

Re. BC coilovers/shocks/springs.

I'm happy with my BC BR-RS coilover (fronts) shock/spring (rears) package. And can set them from too hard to too soft, and everything in between.

They were on the car when I bought it 2.5 years ago, and have been absolutely fine.

I just did a seach for 'BC Coilovers' to see if they have a bad rep on this forum.

After running through 200+ posts mentioning them, I can't see a pattern of complaints against them.

I know some of the more experienced members on this forum run and recommend them.

http://bcracing.com.au/nissan-stagea-awd-nm35-coilovers

Hope this helps

[RS_Wags]

Thanks for the brake info Darkmeat, exactly what I needed! Is it worth running the R34 2 pot rears? Not just because they look shit hot, surely the extra 4mm diameter would help a little? I've run HEL braided lines on every car I've had for almost 10 years now. Even my wife's dead stock Outback got a set of slotted DBA's and HEL lines to help slow things down when towing.

12 minutes ago, Darkmeat said:

Re. BC coilovers/shocks/springs.

I'm happy with my BC BR-RS coilover (fronts) shock/spring (rears) package. And can set them from too hard to too soft, and everything in between.

They were on the car when I bought it 2.5 years ago, and have been absolutely fine.

I just did a seach for 'BC Coilovers' to see if they have a bad rep on this forum.

After running through 200+ posts mentioning them, I can't see a pattern of complaints against them.

I know some of the more experienced members on this forum run and recommend them.

Great to hear from someone running the BCs'. I've had them before and they did exactly what I wanted them, steer. I saw a lot of people talking them up here, specifically on Stageas, but I know a lot of people chase pure performance over any sort of comfort (I know I used to), so wasn't sure. I'm still leaning towards Bilsteins, although being able to adjust the ride height is handy! I'll chat with the guys at MCA when she's in this week and see what they recommend, but until then would love to hear anyone else's experiences coilovers -v- Billies -v- KYBs.

[Darkmeat]

I think the 350Z and the NM35 and the V35 have the same rear brake package.

And the R34 GTT rears aren't a bolt-in fit.

ERRATA:

In the shopping list I posted above, I got the dimensions of the rear rotor wrong.

Here it is corrected:

Front: R34 GT-T 4 piston calipers
310 x 30mm RDA Slotted Dimpled rotors: Part no. RDA7597D
Project Mu HS400 pads: Part no. F236

Rear: Stagea NM35 calipers (standard)
292 x 16mm RDA Slotted Dimpled rotors: Part no. RDA7657D
Project Mu HS400 pads: Part no. R209

 

Had Bilstein shocks and Whiteline swaybars, on my f6 typhoon and they were awesome.

Have BC BR-RS shocks/springs and Super Pro Roll Control swaybars & links on my NM35 and they're great too.

A lot of fun.

 

 

[RS_Wags]

Little update... The guys at MCA said the front rotors are glazed and the rears need machining. I did a run to Canberra on the weekend and noticed the balancing of the wheels was horrendous. Anything over 110 the steering wheel was shaking like crazy, could also feel the rear vibrating the entire car. A quick visit to my old tyre fitter in Canberra and she was way better on the ride home. It also seemed to reduce the amount of vibration/shuddering while braking. Anyone heard of feeling bad balance while braking? 

Regardless, still looking at better brakes  After chatting to the guy I used to get my Subaru parts from who has also since switched to a Stagea, I've thinking front and rear Brembos from a 350Z. I know they're not as big up front as the GTR, but surely they're still a fair upgrade from the stock M35 kit?

The shocks are also definitely shagged, but I've got no idea which way I'll end up going there???

 

[Caleb_M35]

In regards to suspension, I went with MCA Street Performance series coilovers and I cannot fault them. They team at MCA are incredibly helpful in making sure you get the suspension set up just the way you want, the coilovers themselves are of extremely high build quality and the ride quality is brilliant. The only possible downside is the price once you go above their Blue Series but quality reflects that. 

[KiwiRS4T]

For street use new stock rotors (or skimmed if there is enough thickness left) with some decent pads will be fine. Better brake lines and new fluid would be good.

For suspension shocks of your choice (Bilstein for me) and an upgraded rear anti-roll bar will help.

[GTSBoy]

Glazed rotors can be brought back with garnet paper.