R32 GTR radiator for 333kw + track use

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

33 minutes ago, djr81 said:

Have a 42mm PWR radiator. It never overheats and I am in WA where is can get hot on a track day and I run 98 not E85.  Down side is it leaks and I can never find the leak. Be the Nismo fkn cap then eh. Random post will help enormously:  

Yeah throw that Nismo cap in the bin.

 

32 minutes ago, MrStabby said:

Ok thanks for the info. I happen to have a spare Tridon CB16110 here, so i'll use that instead of the Nismo that's on the CoolingPro. The Nismo is 18psi, whereas the Tridon is 16 psi (110kpa) as you probably know.

EDIT: Forgot to mention that PWR said i should use a 16PSI cap.

Yeah raising the boiling point of your cooling system by using a higher pressure radiator cap is not advised, as you'll end up in a big mess.

Close to OEM pressure is the best, you don't want that 20+ year old heater core or water lines going bang, if your water is boiling then there are other issues. No point putting on a stronger cap.

[niZmO_Man]

17 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Yeah throw that Nismo cap in the bin.

What? Why would you throw $100 in the bin?

[djr81]

Just so you know I am going to feel incredibly dirty putting this on my car.

http://search.supercheapauto.com.au/search?w=Tridon CB16110

[Komdotkom]

Be very very careful with the PWR radiator and 'stray current' issues. They have a fairly poor reputation when it comes to warranty replacements.

Another good option is Race Radiators in Melbourne if you are looking for a custom setup, they just made me a three core twin pass unit with swirl pot. It was about $900 including the pot.

[MrStabby]

Ok will check for that.

FYI for the thread - From: http://www.ipswichradiators.com.au/images/documents/FS119_-_Stray_current_corrosion_in_cooling_systems.pdf

 

1. Remove the radiator cap and run the engine to operation temperature. Do not rev the engine as this may cause the coolant to aerate.

2. Switch ON all electrical items including items.

3. Switch a multimeter to a scale of 5 volts DC or less. Ideally the meter should be capable of reading milli-volts. A digital multimeter may not be suitable for this test.

4. Place the negative lead of the multimeter on the battery negative post.

5. Dip the positive lead into the coolant without touching the filler neck or the core of the radiator.

6. A reading of more than .05 volts indicates the presence of potentially damaging stray current passing through the coolant. Ideally the voltage should be 0 volts, however it is highly possible that some voltage level will be detected.

7. If no voltage or a very low voltage is detected, carry out the same test as in point 4, but with the ignition OFF.

8. If voltage is detected, isolate the circuit by turning all electrical items OFF and switching each circuit ON individually.

 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

1 hour ago, djr81 said:

Just so you know I am going to feel incredibly dirty putting this on my car.

http://search.supercheapauto.com.au/search?w=Tridon CB16110

could get a stant cap

[TXSquirrel]

Koyo has lifetime warranty, and they are easy to deal with.  Same with Mishimoto, which even offers collision warranty.  Both of them cost about half of other options I looked at, but I went with Koyo because they are slightly thicker at 48mm.

I am sure you have done this, but I think it's worth the time to double or triple check if the whole system is bled properly.

[fatz]

Per cross flow loves 400kw track car

[SimonR32]

11 hours ago, TXSquirrel said:

Koyo has lifetime warranty, and they are easy to deal with.  Same with Mishimoto, which even offers collision warranty.  Both of them cost about half of other options I looked at, but I went with Koyo because they are slightly thicker at 48mm.

I am sure you have done this, but I think it's worth the time to double or triple check if the whole system is bled properly.

New Koyorad is a 48mm (rather than old 53mm) so you get better clearance to fan/shroud and it is apparently more efficient. I make around 580kw at the hubs and I tend freak out when it hits over 90C but only really heads that way after a belting and sitting idling, drops temperature when air is flowing at speed.