Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

In need of some expert/experienced opinions, It's a 1990 r32 gts4 that I purchased, I have liked skylines for a long time now and decided it was time to buy one, I was in over my head when I purchased this. What should I do? I've been offered 1k for it, i think i might try to get him up a bit but it won't get anything past 2k on a good day. Passion has gone and no where permanent to store it until I can give a shit again. It's killed my enthusiasm for cool/fast cars.

Problems:

  • no driveline
  • no interior
  • no diff
  • full respray would be needed
  • rust piece near rear window
  • Has a piece of metal overlapping a part of the frame which looks dodgy
  • paid too much for it, needs almost everything replaced

If I do get another skyline I'll be hunting for a perfect condition one from a SAU member. Pics attached.

 


 

IMG_20180425_084537.jpg

14474104_143410529454053_53635345434017792_n.jpg

xIMG_20180424_122846.thumb.jpg.15fe1b29efdaffe564b7732cefb6bb56.jpg.pagespeed.ic.hcpkYwkOWe.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473884-should-i-save-it-or-move-on/
Share on other sites

You've answered your own question. The love has gone - just cut your losses and don't buy another car until you can afford one that doesn't require a fortune to fix ...in fact do you really want a project or do you just want a car you can drive?

  • Like 1

You sound like you've made up your mind. I'd push it and see how much this guy will give you for it but if you're burnt out now I'd just move it on.

If it was a GTR Shell then I'd possibly consider storing and keeping it till you're motivated due to the value simply getting out of control but not a GTS4 - Time to make it someone else's problem tbh.

2 hours ago, Jordy32 said:

You sound like you've made up your mind. I'd push it and see how much this guy will give you for it but if you're burnt out now I'd just move it on.

If it was a GTR Shell then I'd possibly consider storing and keeping it till you're motivated due to the value simply getting out of control but not a GTS4 - Time to make it someone else's problem tbh.

+1

57 minutes ago, mlracing said:

Junk it, what happened to the rear guards lol

Someone widened them, idk why. It looks worse in person, ruins the lines of the car.

12 hours ago, Jordy32 said:

You sound like you've made up your mind. I'd push it and see how much this guy will give you for it but if you're burnt out now I'd just move it on.

If it was a GTR Shell then I'd possibly consider storing and keeping it till you're motivated due to the value simply getting out of control but not a GTS4 - Time to make it someone else's problem tbh.

It seems like way too much work even as is, i've been offered 1250 for it and i took it because it needs a lot of work and the bloke who's bought it owns GTRs so he should be able to get it fixed and on the road/track again. He will take me for a drive in it when hes got it up and running so thats a plus for me if he remembers. But after you saying the 34 is nicer/newer i'll probably aim for a clean 34 tbh.

12 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

You've answered your own question. The love has gone - just cut your losses and don't buy another car until you can afford one that doesn't require a fortune to fix ...in fact do you really want a project or do you just want a car you can drive?

I was looking for an easy project but I was in over my head after really thinking about it, i'll be aiming for a driving car that's stock or close to stock next time, I really wanted a car thats clean, stock and runs well that I can throw mods at instead of repairs.

  • 2 months later...

Agreed. If the passion still there for this kind of car, then make it as a project. But you have some hesitation as due to the condition needed to work in the car, then i must say... move on as the passion is not the same. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey guys been looking everywhere to try and find the correct gtr hood latch support part number but only found the first half and when I search with that number it sends me to an r34. The first part I found was 62515. If anyone could help me with the rest then I’d really appreciate it. Or if there’s some alternative hood latch support that would work even better cause I can’t find any for sale. (Searched on upgarage, partsouq,buyee,rhdjapan) 
    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
    • I have a heap that i have collected if you want some authentic ones still. Pm me if your interested!
×
×
  • Create New...