Oil Temp, Oil Pressure and Water Temp Minimum/Maximum Values

[Up_Troys_Bucket]

Hi all,

New here, and new owner of an R32 GTR. I have recently bought a digital multi gauge to monitor my boost, oil pressure, oil temp and water temp. An added bonus of this digital gauge is it allows for the input of minimum values before it's safe to start driving and maximum (or minimum) values which, once reached would set off an alarm so you can act accordingly.

Despite my best efforts (including searching via the forum and google) I can't seem to find a solid answer for the minimum and maximum ideal values for oil pressure, oil temp and water temp (not boost as obviously that is dependant on the vehicle). 

I know this may change with engine builds, oil types etc BUT, I am thinking there must be a best guess value for these assuming a stock rb26dett?

If I have missed a thread where this is covered I apologise but am happy to be corrected!!

Any help is appreciated, 

Edited April 30, 2018 by Up_Troys_Bucket

[KiwiRS4T]

You don't need minimum values. Turn the key and drive away (so long as you have oil pressure). Don't thrash it until its warmed up (70 to 80 deg C) .

Oil pressures will vary a lot according to the state of your engine, grade of oil used, state of tune etc.  Do some reading and you will find what some people consider acceptable.  10psi per 1000 rpm is a very rough rule of thumb but very different pressures may be fine too.

There are no hard and fast maxima. You will have to do some research and decide your own. Over 100degC is getting hot but a strong engine will tolerate more for a while. The pressurised cooling system is designed raise the boiling point. Oil over 120C is getting hot but fully synthetic will tolerate high temps better than mineral oil.

In short carry on driving and do a lot of reading and come to your own conclusions.

[ausromeo]

What digital multi gauge did you get? And are you happy with it?

With past vehicles I've always set water for 100c, oil for 120c and a 15psi min limit on oil pressure. Note some cars will regularly see 100c water temp in warm climates with ac.

 

Thanks

[Up_Troys_Bucket]

Double post deleted

Edited May 1, 2018 by Up_Troys_Bucket

[Up_Troys_Bucket]

18 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

You don't need minimum values. Turn the key and drive away (so long as you have oil pressure). Don't thrash it until its warmed up (70 to 80 deg C) .

Oil pressures will vary a lot according to the state of your engine, grade of oil used, state of tune etc.  Do some reading and you will find what some people consider acceptable.  10psi per 1000 rpm is a very rough rule of thumb but very different pressures may be fine too.

There are no hard and fast maxima. You will have to do some research and decide your own. Over 100degC is getting hot but a strong engine will tolerate more for a while. The pressurised cooling system is designed raise the boiling point. Oil over 120C is getting hot but fully synthetic will tolerate high temps better than mineral oil.

In short carry on driving and do a lot of reading and come to your own conclusions.

I understand what you're saying, especially in the context of 'learn your own engine'. 

Surely though there is still a rough oil temp people would suggest is an ideal minimum before driving.

And by the same token a water temp and oil temp level at which it's advised to allow the engine to cool down or shut down to avoid damage. Likewise an oil pressure that if dropped below should be an indication there is an issue. 

Considering aftermarket ECU's such as Haltechs and Motecs can be used to set limits and take action on a number of inputs I just would have thought those inputs would be more 'common' or 'available'for lack of a better term. 

None the less I appreciate your advice and will see what I can ascertain from my own car once the gauge is up and running. 

[Up_Troys_Bucket]

8 minutes ago, ausromeo said:

What digital multi gauge did you get? And are you happy with it?

With past vehicles I've always set water for 100c, oil for 120c and a 15psi min limit on oil pressure. Note some cars will regularly see 100c water temp in warm climates with ac.

 

Thanks

It's a Just Race Parts 10 in 1 gauge which is currently on the way so not yet installed. 

From all accounts it's a very capable multi gauge and the service thus far from the designer / retailer has been on point. 

I appreciate your input on the figures, interestingly I am also hearing that on some RB's 10 psi at 1k rpm isn't unusual?

[GTSBoy]

1 hour ago, Up_Troys_Bucket said:

I understand what you're saying, especially in the context of 'learn your own engine'. 

Surely though there is still a rough oil temp people would suggest is an ideal minimum before driving.

And by the same token a water temp and oil temp level at which it's advised to allow the engine to cool down or shut down to avoid damage. Likewise an oil pressure that if dropped below should be an indication there is an issue. 

Considering aftermarket ECU's such as Haltechs and Motecs can be used to set limits and take action on a number of inputs I just would have thought those inputs would be more 'common' or 'available'for lack of a better term. 

None the less I appreciate your advice and will see what I can ascertain from my own car once the gauge is up and running. 

No.  Literally the most sensible advice is to start the engine, let it run long enough to put the club lock behind your seat/fold up the sun screen/fasten your belt/look over your shoulder and then just drive away.  It is what you do from that point on that matters.  You don't rev it hard or load it up until it has some heat in it.  You don't rev it really hard or give it lots of load until it is pretty much all the way up to normal temperature.  So, in the context of how long that is in a Skyline, from cold, you drive it gently for the first few minutes, but you can use a bit of gas to get it onto the highway and you won't be leaning on it until you've been driving for at least 5-10 minutes.

Letting a cold car idle for ages is not sensible.  I let mine idle for a bit because I need to start it to get it out of its hole and put bags, etc in it, but it is only for a couple of minutes and it is still cold enough that I don't lean on it until I am well out onto the main road, a few km away.

[Kinkstaah]

See above.

I don't personally give it any more than 25% throttle until oil temp is 70C and Water temp is at thermostat temp, which in my car is 78-80C.

On the track I've not had oil temp go much over 100-103 after/during a full session with 400kw, but this is with a 25row oil cooler. I would back off at 130C prior to getting an oil cooler, and obviously decided to get an oil cooler.

At the same track, Water temp will get up to/around 95 or so. I now start getting nervous if any temperature gauge has a number in three figures. I have warnings/cutoffs/engine protection set at

a) Any AFR above 12.5 with boost above 3psi for more than 100ms.
b) Oil or Water temp over 120C.

That is a (very rough) set of examples for you.

[Up_Troys_Bucket]

On 02/05/2018 at 9:39 AM, Kinkstaah said:

See above.

I don't personally give it any more than 25% throttle until oil temp is 70C and Water temp is at thermostat temp, which in my car is 78-80C.

On the track I've not had oil temp go much over 100-103 after/during a full session with 400kw, but this is with a 25row oil cooler. I would back off at 130C prior to getting an oil cooler, and obviously decided to get an oil cooler.

At the same track, Water temp will get up to/around 95 or so. I now start getting nervous if any temperature gauge has a number in three figures. I have warnings/cutoffs/engine protection set at

a) Any AFR above 12.5 with boost above 3psi for more than 100ms.
b) Oil or Water temp over 120C.

That is a (very rough) set of examples for you.

Much appreciated, thankyou!! 

[duz10s]

anyone know the values of the r33 gtr oil temp guage reading, mine has a line which starts at 70 and continues up unbroken to a point, then a break and next ready is 150?