Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You are only going to be able to get at a small amount of the intake runners, not the whole intake manifold unless you extrude hone it. That will cost a fortune. Dry intake systems should benefit from smoothing, whereas fuel loaded systems benefit from a courser finish. Will the time and money spent give you an economical gain is more the question. Positive pressure dry intake systems maybe inherently turbulent, I seem to remember that they have an insanely high Reynolds number which would make the flow inherently turbulent, but ive forgotten more than I remember about laminar flow.

 

 

 

Light travels faster than sound, that's why some people appear bright until they speak!

  • Like 1

Yes, I agree .. removing these 'barnickles' might be more of a cosmetic procedure. (I'll still give them a quick smooth over)

Extrude honing would be the way to go, but as you said 'it will cost a fortune' and is economically not viable.

I'm not sure about the Reynolds number, after the air has passed through the FMIC and long subsequent piping it might not be that turbulent anymore?

Btw. I have seen better casts on WWII engines .... :)

 

 

Edited by Torques
3 hours ago, Torques said:

Btw. I have seen better casts on WWII engines ....

 

Me Too Andy, I also would not be able to resist removing those crusty bits, just because they look awful. The Neo head on mine was cast and finished so badly at the rear oil drain that half of the gallery was blocked, I spent a couple of hours on that.:3_grin:

I would say that the benefits from waving a die grinder around in there will be unmeasureable.  There may be some benefit to keeping the finish on the inside of the bend a bit rougher to hold on to the flow for longer, thus reducing separation and thereby using more of the cross section for actual flow.  Luckily, this is he hardest bit to reach with a burr.....so, win.

The runners are not small on a 25, so there's little point in trying to make them bigger.  The single biggest benefit available would be to ensure a good port match, and even that advice would be subject to knowledge about how the port itself works and whether a small mismatch at the runner-port interface can actually help (which it sometimes can, to force flow to bias a little to one side or the other to set it up to make better use of the downstream port shape, short turn, etc).  But I don't know, so am not going to say.

And one very important thing for you all to remember.  I cannot imagine any flow, at any point in an automotive intake tract that will not be fully developed turbulent flow with Re well above the minimum.  Usually Re> several tens of thousands, even at low revs.  The velocities involved are simply too high.  And boost has nothing to do with it, because as the velocity goes down (because boost) then the density goes up at the same rate and they cancel each other's effect.  You'd have to have the air velocity down into the single digit m/s range to even hope to get the Re below 10k.

There is pretty much no such thing as "laminar flow" in any part of anything real.  The best you can hope for is "well conditioned turbulent" flow, where the flow is fully turbulent, but it has had time in a straight duct to develop an even velocity profile

  • Like 1
6 hours ago, Rusty Nuts said:

Me Too Andy, I also would not be able to resist removing those crusty bits, just because they look awful. The Neo head on mine was cast and finished so badly at the rear oil drain that half of the gallery was blocked, I spent a couple of hours on that.:3_grin:

Yes, the crusty bit will have to go ... just for esthetic reasons :)

Funny, I thought on the Neo things would have improved ..

 

  • Haha 1
7 minutes ago, Torques said:

Funny, I thought on the Neo things would have improved ..

Nope, mine was cast by an orangutan on work experience and there was clear evidence of a permanent pool of oil  having existed for the engines first life ie a big brown "bathtub ring"

6 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

I would say that the benefits from waving a die grinder around in there will be unmeasureable.  There may be some benefit to keeping the finish on the inside of the bend a bit rougher to hold on to the flow for longer, thus reducing separation and thereby using more of the cross section for actual flow.  Luckily, this is he hardest bit to reach with a burr.....so, win..................

Yes, all valid and true what you write. Without proper fluid dynamics simulation I suppose we'll never know for sure what's going on there. Possibly back in the day Nissan used trial and error designs to figure the best flow out.

I'll possibly go for a different manifold at some point but I don't want to loose low to mid range which seems to be the case with the Greddy style intakes

 

 

 

 

2 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Plazmaman has released a billet, CNC machined runner intake manifold and plenum kit.

I might just get it for the sake of it, bring on no power gains and more lag! Lol

Baller life! And you give me shit about my pink salt and brunch habits :O

7 minutes ago, Jordy32 said:

Baller life! And you give me shit about my pink salt and brunch habits

Decided not to upgrade my car to something sensible because I came up with a great idea to get the missus a Golf R as a daily :)

So... R33 might get more mods before it even sees the dyno (if ever) lol

On 5/5/2018 at 10:49 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Plazmaman has released a billet, CNC machined runner intake manifold and plenum kit.

I might just get it for the sake of it, bring on no power gains and more lag! Lol

OK, I didn't know that ... I only knew about their 'set on top' bulb which looks a bit funny

That plenum costs serious money and I like my fuel rail ...

https://plazmaman.com/product/rb25-r33-and-neo-inlet-manifold-full-billet-runner-6-injector/

 

Edited by Torques
Update

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got the motor out and torn down. I'll be dropping off the block Monday. Luckily the scoring on Cyl6 is much less pronounced then the pictures made it out to seem. It can barely be felt. If you pass your finger over it 10x you'll barely notice it. Hopefully by some chance it will only require a honing. I'm not in the mood to buy one size larger pistons or another block. Oddly enough my 6th cylinder with the scoring has extremely clean intake valves compared to my other 5 cylinders. I'm worried the scoring was caused by too much fuel or Water/Methanol washing the cylinder. I'll review some old logs to confirm.  This was also the first time I pull an engine with the transmission still attached. It went much better then expected. I was worried my CD009 wouldn't make it easy due to its sheer size but it was much easier this way. 
    • From the pictures I have when doing the job the flywheel is the same diameter, I don't think they're playing weird tricks like putting weights at the outer diameter to increase flywheel inertia or anything like that. The OEM flywheel is definitely heavier, but it's not a huge difference. Quoted weight savings of the clutch is 2 kg so I can't imagine the flywheel being lighter than ~7 kg. Kind of regret not weighing it before the clutch went into the car but as far as driveability goes I have no complaints.
    • HKS trigger kit should be very easy to integrate with a Link. It's a 36-2 crank trigger. Hard part is finding the motivation to take off the timing belt and everything on the front of the engine to install it. You also need to cut out a hole in the oil pump housing so the sensor can read the trigger wheel. Changing out the cam sensor for a 24 tooth setup is probably good enough but as others have mentioned depending on what underlying assumptions are changed it becomes more of a problem. Reading the crank state off of the cam is an abstraction that works in the general case, but if you have an edge case it makes less and less sense. There is a GTX2860 gen 2 that can take a compact 5 bolt housing so it's direct bolt on but I'm not 100% sure of what's involved. Peak compressor efficiency drops off a bit on these turbos vs -5s, 77% vs 73% but you get way, way wider region of operation. The -5s have a really strange surge line in their compressor map that is all over the place. If you think the hot side on the -5s aren't open enough you can try the Tomei T550B turbos which a local tuner seems to be happy with:
    • i need a complete tail light for my R33 GTR if you have please let me know.
    • I need a great maintenance workshop around Idaho, if you know one please let me know..
×
×
  • Create New...