Jump to content
SAU Community

RB25DET Oil Filter Housing Cracked

Boof3r

By Boof3r,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Boof3r Newbie

Boof3r

Posted
Posted

Hey everyone,

My oil filter housing flange is cracked and I have a nasty oil leak as a result. I've had a look around everywhere for replacement parts and advice on what to do but haven't found exactly what I'm looking for. From my research I have the following options:

1. Weld the crack - not recommended as the housing is aluminium and oil tends to get trapped making it even harder to weld.

2. Relocate oil filter using kit - seems like a good option but then I have to relocate the oil cooler as well. Also is there any additional wiring needed for the sensors (oil temp and pressure) due to the relocation?

3. Install a sandwich plate - another seemingly good option, but also deletes the oil cooler. I guess with this one the sensors can stay where they are (just get installed into the sandwich plate)?

4. Use a housing from a different engine such as an RB30 - not too sure about this one. What are the differences between them?

Ideally I'd love some advice from someone who has done this before but at this point any advice would help. I liked the idea of the sandwich plate the most but I've been told it's not as simple as just putting in a new stud, installing the sandwich plate and sensors and screwing in the filter. Any thoughts on this?

Alternatively if anyone has a blown RB25DET that they are parting out please let me know!

TIA

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474082-rb25det-oil-filter-housing-cracked/
Share on other sites
GeeDog Experienced

GeeDog

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, Boof3r said:

4. Use a housing from a different engine such as an RB30 - not too sure about this one. What are the differences between them?

RB30 doesn't have a housing - there is just a hollow stud screwed into the block, and the filter spins onto that. The o-ring on the filter seals against the block (which is where your current housing seals now). If you wanted to fit an external oil cooler, you could remove the housing, install an RB30 stud, fit a sandwich plate over the stud, then run lines to the cooler. You can put the oil pressure sensor in the sandwich plate. We ran our track car like this for a while.

You can buy the RB30 stud (actually, for some strange reason you have to buy 2) from Nissan spare parts. Here is a link to one at Kudos - RB30 oil filter stud

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • hardsteppa
      R-chassis INNER tie rod torque spec?

      By hardsteppa · Posted

      Don't be ridiculous. "2-3 ugga duggas or one Oof. You have to use Oof on tie rods because you can't get an ugga dugga on there." Is not helping the guy at all.
    • JC71
      gauge needle removal

      By JC71 · Posted

      I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Roy
      A Boy's Love For His Rb20

      By Roy · Posted

      Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
    • GTSBoy
      gauge needle removal

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Assuming that they will come off without damage at all.... i would have thought just pull straight up off the spindle with a something or other than can reach underneath. Have you searched for youtube vids of people doing similar on R34s or any other Nissan from the same vintage? They should be the same technique, in all likelihhood.
    • GTSBoy
      Wheel refurb?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Keeping in mind that sandblasting is really aggressive on softer metals like cast alloy, and you can do damage that you might regret. For trash wheels, not a problem. For wheels with value/scarcity issues, etc.... perhaps a less aggressive media is a better choice?
×
×
  • Create New...