Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, im new to skyline Australia and i would like some help.

My skyline r33 is losing power when i flat foot and the rpm reaches 5000rpm or so. Recently the problem has seem to evolve and make the car die out past 5000 rpm and what i mean is, the car is still on but there is no power what so ever past 5000. I've had this problem before except the dying out part and i fixed it with AFM. I have bought 2 AFM's and put them in the car and reset the ecu, however the problem is still there but the car dying out problem seem to be gone. Does anyone have any advice on what i can check next please. Im a student so i dont wanna go out and spend more money for nothing.

My car only has a few mods: (STOCK ECU + BOOST-no boost controller)

 

1.Spitfire coils packs

2.FMIC

3.After market fuel pump KEMSO 340LPH

4.Exhaust system turbo back

5. Iridium sparkplugs that i replaced about 6-8months ago. (Have not touched the gaping)

Tomorrow i will check the coils and spark plugs, but is there anything else i can check? Ive also checked previously for air leaks but found nothing.

Can timing belt be an issue? and o2 Sensor?

Thanks!

Rany

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474144-dying-at-5000rpm/
Share on other sites

Partially collapsed cat or muffler or flattened exhaust pipe can do that,  had a Falcon that started doing this at higher revs then one night on the freeway it fired a blazing ball of muffler packing out the tailpipe and became much louder.

14 hours ago, wildeagle44 said:

Maybe bypass the knock sensors? Could be pulling timing. 

Does it happen in every gear?

This time it is happening every gear. I cant flat foot on any gear from 1 to 4 so i'll check it out. would you know where their located?

Thanks mate

12 hours ago, BBGTR said:

Sounds like the igniter module, they sometimes break down at higher revs when they get old.

Thanks mate i'll have a look into it today.

The data sent from the car’s oxygen sensors to the computer helps it adjust the air-fuel mixture for optimal operation. If a sensor is bad or failing, the computer won’t be able to adjust this mix correctly. Also a clogged fuel filter can cause similar symptoms. Combine the two and you are in a world of pain. A new fuel filter is a cheap starting point buddy.

21 hours ago, Rusty Nuts said:

The data sent from the car’s oxygen sensors to the computer helps it adjust the air-fuel mixture for optimal operation. If a sensor is bad or failing, the computer won’t be able to adjust this mix correctly. Also a clogged fuel filter can cause similar symptoms. Combine the two and you are in a world of pain. A new fuel filter is a cheap starting point buddy.

Thanks for the reply Rusty. I have bought a new 02 sensor. Im gonna change it, if it fixes the problem im happy if it doesnt then i will just changed a part that is over 20 years old. I will also buy a new fuel filter since my 1 is still the original im sure.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Yup, bought this bad boy and hopefully it will be ready to pickup today. Had $5 credit on top of it so it worked out really well!
    • Yeah it is really until until you get a feel for it....then it is easy. Which is no use to you really. I'd buy that torque wrench. One thing from sure, many (most?) tyre shots overtighten the f**k out of wheel nuts, so don't worry if they were tighter when you tried to take them off compared to when you do them up. I've had some crazy tight ones come back from shops, quite apart from the potential damage to the thread, I can't see a smaller person taking the wheel off on the side of the road
    • Hey mate, thread dredging hahah To answer you directly, yes I had my itbs oversized and custom butterflies etc made by EFI Hardware in Sydney back around 2017-2018 if memory serves. My setup had a vast amount of other changes too though, so no direct comparisons unfortunately. i went from oem itbs, HPI manifold and internal gate hks 2835 pro S; to 49mm itbs, cnc port matched Nismo plenum, RB25 Neo lower runner adapter hand port matched, r31house v2 Takoashi MAX equal length twin scroll manifold with twin 38mm tial gates and a FP HTA3076 with 1.01ar twin scroll real hosing. feom power Fc to a link fury wired by 12volt, r32 gtr fuel tank conversion with frenchys twin 460 / surge tabk fuel hanger combo kit, 1659cc injectors, full 4 inch turbo back stainless exhaust, Z34 6 speed, Tomei 2way with 4.3 final drive and a ton of other shit. ive posted elsewhere here with complete run down, but here's a graph from its initial tune with no boost control on, 20psi gate springs only and e85.   7542AE72-DA92-4E0B-8660-B0940FEA7F24.mov
    • On sale mate, $55. Sorted. https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/toolpro-toolpro-torque-wrench-1-2-drive/565734.html?utm_content=paidsearch-pmax&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwytS-BhCKARIsAMGJyzqYEnwWmhWf6gxTST_Nz06Gd2VePgyvL7lh6PWrQtbjXTsI6TqSCLEaAuaCEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
    • Slap it and say it ain't going no where, you'll be fine.
×
×
  • Create New...