Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This will be a weird one:

RB25 Neo head on rb25 neo block with 26 internals (CP, Eagle, ACL, ARP, Cometic HG 2.5mm), enlarged oil returns, blocked feed, 1.1mm on the other one. VTC inactive. Rear head vent to crank, big catch can vented with oil return to pan and vents to crank and valve covers, Jun oil pump. Tomei baffle box on the oil pan.

 

This was fully done with everything i saw around. Everything was done as perfect as i could. Ever since day 1 ive had a weird white vapor coming from the valve covers (pcv valve hole open to air, i never got it into the catch can), like a light smoke, almost like something burning slowly. And a tick on the head after warm up (i meassured valve to cam clearance as best as i could and its within spec, but im guessing one was too tight maybe...) i ignored it for now. Compression was fine after initial start and break in, 175 psi.

 

Anyways, i made over 450hp with clutch slipping, a lot of things happened, in the end it was ran hard, it worked. Last weekend i went to a drift demo we had. PCV hole was open to air still, engine squirted oil on the bay, oil temp was around 270-290, it was hot as hell. oil pressure was fine all the time, blew the turbo seals BUT i had more white smoke comming from the pcv hole now. shut down, it kept smoking for quite a while, like something was burning. i dont know what that is, maybe its the shitty mobil 1 mineral oil? i dont know.

Due to the turbo smoking, i towed the car home, in my mind i broke a piston ringland. But not i didnt. still have 170 psi compression, leakdown @ 75 psi was only showing 2% - 4% according to the instructions on the leakdown tester (4-8 psi loss), compression test was done cold and hot after rolling the car to the shop. leakdown was made cold.

This was quick check while hot: at home, 8pm, i shined a light on the pcv hole and i could clearly see the smoke being pushed out, giving it throttle it clearly pushed it harder.

 

So what now, compression is fine, leakdown is fine, but engine seems to be smoking from the covers for some reason. im leaning towards BAD oil doing something weird under heat. I supposed blowby would be noticeable on the leakdown, but its fine right? (75psi in, 72psi held, it was never over 8psi difference), maybe i dont really grasp how blowby works vs these tests or something....

Any ideas?

 

 

 

 

Why have you left the pcv valve hole unblocked? Where is the catch can vented to - to turbo intake or to atmosphere? Rear "vent " to crankcase could be useless or worse - conducting pressure to the top. Why did your turbo seals blow? Oil temps seem excessive.  What did your tune look like esp AFRs and did you measure EGTs?

PCV was unintentionally ignored, facing the first event it was all quick. Its going to be directed to the catch can now.

Catch can is vented to atmosfere. Has a bottom fitting to return oil to pan. I thought the rear vent or drain, wouldnt really hurt anything, whats the generan consensus on it right now?

Turbo seals, old holset turbo, used exhaust wheel, i think its out of balance, i keep repairing it every 2 events. Now i bought a new chra to replace the whole thing. I have an oil restrictor on it, but its pretty big, it has a 4mm hole or bigger.

Oil temps were indeed sky high, it was a small track, 2nd gear, it was intense and the engine was heating up quite a bit.

AFRs are rich, we run around 11.6 - 12  on boost, 100 octane fuel. no EGT right now. im switching from a Z32 chiped ECU to an Ecumaster emu ecu.

Apart from all these small things that may add up to big issues. I cant seem to put my finger on the difference between the good results on leakdown etc vs the blowby or smoke im seeing from the valve cover. I keep hearing that the Mobil 1 oil sold in my country is really bad, noone uses it, but i cant imagine that its so bad that it would cook itself and smoke so much. sounds farfetched.

Ill correct the pcv valve hole, new turbo, gotta ask around about the turbo oil restrictor. Retuning soon on the new ecu. using knock and a bunch of new sensors to take care of the engine.

Just have to figure out this smoke thing. Im almost opening up the engine and rechecking everything. Its not a lot of work for me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Another thought on this OLD topic: When you paint your bonnet lip, leave a small unpainted back lip/line along the back of the lip, where it rests on the bumper. That way, the line in the back is much more prominent than the gaps in the front/under the lip - and it breaks the hood-to-bumper connection at the "correct" place, when comparing to a GTR. I'm gonna do this with mine this week, so stay tuned for pics!
    • So I'm in the final stages of assembling my single turbo RB30/26 and had a question regarding MAP reference points.  I've seen several recommendations such as tapping the cylinder 2/3 ITB, tapping the intake manifold at cylinder 2/3, or using a point on IAC. First two are doable but require permanently modify part and the third is "out" as I plan to delete the IAC.  All that to say my question is can I used the "bleeder" in the center of the ballance tube as a MAP Reference? I'm running a catch can so I don't need it for the PCV system. My thought process is it "pulls" from all 6 cylinder, and it's between the ITB and the cylinders making it ideal for MAP reference according to what I can find. Thoughts?
    • Some sense has prevailed! What kind of idiot spends money on intake, heads, and cams for a N/A motor in 2025? Lol. What maroons. Source:I am King Maroon.
    • So, cams are not getting installed......yet  Had a good chat with MX5 Mania about intakes, they recommend not to get ITB's, they recommend a plenum style for the NC So, one of these puppies is being ordered, with a larger TB to suit, when it arrives from the US the car will go in for the cams and intake I'm also getting a fancy rear box bit for the air filter box which will suit the new TB size
    • Clamp meter is pointless. Unless you're trying to keep average current under a set value for some weird reason (maybe you undersized your wiring?), then you'll get no useful info. What you're really trying to target is the flow of fuel coming back to the tank. You want some, but not a lot. You also want to make sure fuel pressure remains stable.   So, fuel pressure gauge, and fuel flow gauge. Set it up from that.
×
×
  • Create New...