R32 GTR (USA-Alabama) KG1 1990

[Slap]

Don't ever sell it mate . They are getting rare as hens teeth.
The prices are only going up because of this.
I used to see heaps of 32s being sold then drifting became massive and now there's barely any and none cheap.

Keep on lovin it.

Bet you spent that house you bought. Ahaha

[Dewayne2121]

Sooooo I posted the dyno vids, but the power the car put down and the spill up times just did not add up. So we pulled the turbos after only being able to get 410hp to the wheels on e85. We shipped them off to a Garrett shop in Florida and......

 

OK, both turbos had the tips blown off, which is why it would have been more sluggish than normal on spool up.

Both had bearing cartridge wear, but the rear one was completely worn out, which is what would have made the wind down afterwords so loud and it not making any power. rear one also had wheel to housing contact.

The compressor wheels were actually changed for the HKS 2530s and arent standard 2860s. The "kicker", Garrett doesn't sell that cast compressor wheel any longer.

 

So,

 

What can be done is upgrade compressor wheels to higher efficiency billet wheels, new bearing cartridges, new turbine wheels, housings all blasted/machined, VSR balanced etc... 

 

The turbos were the only part that I bought secondhand. Now it’s all gonna be fresh parts. 

[Jjtxaz24]

Great project. 

Any more updates on this? Also, where in El Paso did you tune the car. I'm currently stationed at Ft. Bliss and need mine tuned. 

Appreciate the help in advance. 

[Dewayne2121]

25 minutes ago, Jjtxaz24 said:

Great project. 

Any more updates on this? Also, where in El Paso did you tune the car. I'm currently stationed at Ft. Bliss and need mine tuned. 

Appreciate the help in advance. 

Currently waiting to get the turbos back and installed at the moment. But the gentleman's name is Rich Walker. Did an amazing job! His Facebook profile is of a Blue pitbull with shades haha 

[Jjtxaz24]

1 hour ago, Dewayne2121 said:

Currently waiting to get the turbos back and installed at the moment. But the gentleman's name is Rich Walker. Did an amazing job! His Facebook profile is of a Blue pitbull with shades haha 

Awesome. I was able to get a hold of him can you link me to your catch can and show some pics of the set up. I'm in the market for one and hate the ones that are on the driver side and goes across the valve and coil cover. Can you post up some pics of how you ran yours? 

[Dewayne2121]

 

[Dewayne2121]

On 4/19/2019 at 1:22 PM, Jjtxaz24 said:

Awesome. I was able to get a hold of him can you link me to your catch can and show some pics of the set up. I'm in the market for one and hate the ones that are on the driver side and goes across the valve and coil cover. Can you post up some pics of how you ran yours? 

It’s a one of one. Made by @goautoworks on Instagram. Shoot him a message on IG and he’ll be able to give more insight and details as well as pictures. Currently I’m out of town. 

[Dewayne2121]

Haven't posted in a while due to the hiccups that we have ran into once getting the turbos back and installed once again.

The car was still not making the power it should have. Was putting down 315 on on pump (93) on 16psi. Just wasn't adding up. So we started to go down the list of fixes.

1. Pulled the upper plenum off of the turbo side to pressurize the system and look for any sort of leak. I found that under pressure the line leading to the valve on the brake booster was cracked at the tip and leaking. It has just hardened over time, split, and wasnt sealing. This was steadily bleeding off pressure that the motor would see. This would also help explain why the motor w/ the boost controller turned off would only see about 6 psi when according to HKS the gates should be at 12-14.  Fixed the leak and got it to hold 9psi.

2. Random misfire. Got the skip cleared up (1 coil and loose pin in injector clip). Drove the car, felt strong, no skip, made 8-9psi (in traffic) consistently.

3. The FMIC.... It's a GReddy/Trust big intercooler (4 inch) but the age of this is unknown. With it being tube and fin it has a decent amount of damage visibly, but the core of it is outdated killing the spool up.

Hopefully this brings it up to 12-14 psi on gate pressure before we get to turning the Boost controller on. 

 

I did pick the car up for a day to drive after the misfire and brake booster leak was fixed and it felt great compared to the state I dropped it off in. The turbos was coming in around 3500rpm and giving about 6 psi. Handles amazing and the new suspension is noticable instantly.The tires grip amazingly and the car idles and sounds much better. Hopefully this is the last piece needed (haha)

 

[Dewayne2121]

[Dewayne2121]

Ladies and Gents,

 

The next time I thought I'd be posting in this thread it would be to give you all some Horse Power numbers, but thats not the case. I am here to say the car still does not make the power. The compression was checked and it came back :  (#1 175psi, #2 150psi, #3 170psi, #4 170psi, #5 165psi, #6 160psi). Cranks right up, sounds good, drives around fine, just will not make any power. (320ish to the wheel on pump 93)

"There is some leakage into the crank case" is what I've been told, but I'm not sure what that means. I am coming here to hope you guys can give some insight. Also, I can get the last dyno sheet and post that and maybe it will give some extra help to an issue as well. 

 

Whatever it's doing it's only doing it under load. I decided to get rid of the ignitor and upgrade to the R34 S2 Splitfire with the wiring specialties harness and then he is seeing if movement of the cam gears, synching the timing with that would make any "worthy" changes in the curve/peak power. 

 

All suggestions and insight welcomed...

[gav240z]

I can't help with your issue, but subscribing to follow along. Hoping you get it sorted.

[djr81]

1 hour ago, Dewayne2121 said:

"There is some leakage into the crank case" is what I've been told, but I'm not sure what that means. I am coming here to hope you guys can give some insight. Also, I can get the last dyno sheet and post that and maybe it will give some extra help to an issue as well. 

It means you have (too much?) blow by.   The hardest bit on RB26's is to get proper bed in for the rings.  You then get oil out the breathers.  But the 150psi - to 175psi variance across the pistons is not good news.

[Slap]

Not to sure on the standard C/R for a 26, 150 is what i belive acceptable or good, the difference could be a few things, if it was rebuilt, possibly ring gap errors wich can be bad if undersized and just as bad if over size, if un opened possibly ringland , valve seals or bent/burnt valve.

Also worth noting that 93 octane isnt good for making power, most people in aus now use 98 octane to avoid predetination and pinging, 95 octane is ok for moderate power.

[Silverhks]

Careful with the octane comparisons. I'm pretty sure we use a different calculation than you guys do in Australia. Here we use the (R+M)/2 method. I fairly sure our 93 octane is roughly equivalent to RON 98.

[Dewayne2121]

28 minutes ago, Slap said:

Not to sure on the standard C/R for a 26, 150 is what i belive acceptable or good, the difference could be a few things, if it was rebuilt, possibly ring gap errors wich can be bad if undersized and just as bad if over size, if un opened possibly ringland , valve seals or bent/burnt valve.

Also worth noting that 93 octane isnt good for making power, most people in aus now use 98 octane to avoid predetination and pinging, 95 octane is ok for moderate power.

It’s an unopened 26. The next option was to pull the head off and look further into the issue. 

 

12 minutes ago, Silverhks said:

Careful with the octane comparisons. I'm pretty sure we use a different calculation than you guys do in Australia. Here we use the (R+M)/2 method. I fairly sure our 93 octane is roughly equivalent to RON 98.

And on the octane. We also used E85 and was only able to get 416HP out of it. Am I expecting too much? Fresh built HKS 2530s, ID1050, etc... parts lists above. 

[Slap]

Good info. Silver hks.

 

Edited July 25, 2019 by Slap

[Steve85]

16 minutes ago, Dewayne2121 said:

It’s an unopened 26. The next option was to pull the head off and look further into the issue. 

 

I'm no mechanic (IT Support guy), but my impression of engines was that while 150psi is ok if all cylinders perform to this level, but a 20psi difference across the cylinders wasn't great. 
I believe that you wanted as close a possible compression on each cylinder. Our silver GTR produced 175 across all six cylinders (stock with 10k kms). The variance between cylinders was less than 1psi across all 6.

If this were me, i'd be looking to pull the engine down and do rings minimum. (who am I kidding, i'd pay someone).

Edited July 25, 2019 by Steve85

[Slap]

As i said, if its unopened there are a few possibilities.

However and what ever caused it will only be found by checks and or pulling the motor down, a rebuild may cost more than a second hand motor , depending how and who does it.

 

To test the rings drop a cap of oil in and see if it goes up in compression, if not you could be lucky to not pull the bottom end to bits and just have a valve seal or sealing valve issue.

Goodluck.

[mr_rbman]

On 7/25/2019 at 1:55 PM, Dewayne2121 said:

And on the octane. We also used E85 and was only able to get 416HP out of it. Am I expecting too much? Fresh built HKS 2530s, ID1050, etc... parts lists above. 

Definitely not expecting too much, plenty of guys making over 500 (ozzy) rwhp on pump fuel let alone E85 using HKS 2530's...

[Dewayne2121]

This is the last piece I will put into the car before I decide on ripping the head off and digging into the issues. If this is not a fix then I more than likely will be asking you guys about rebuild kits/options.

But as always this is a mixture of pics and vids so enjoy!