Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

4 hours ago, GTofuS-T said:

Damned if you do, damned if you don't at this point.

I'll just get the tune at this point.

From the experience I got with the tuned car with only a header and exhaust is it is still worth the outlay.

Even without a tune, the car as it stands now seems much better, it seems to rev much more freely in the midrange, proof of if I'm imagining it or not will be pre dyno results.

Stock, the torque drops its show bags badly, from 210nm down to 185nm (25nm or about 9%) from around 3-4.5 rpm, it might not seem much, but as the car has F all to start with it is noticeable daily driving.

Cold start is now quite loud though, it does settles down once the cold start has done its thing, or if I blip the throttle.

I'm sure the neighbors are aware of my new and improved exhaust modifications now.

The tune will remove the cold start issue now that that particular function is redundant, and hopefully, the tune flattens the curve out.

The cat in the midpipe seems to be doing its thing well, I'll get them to check my emissions when it's tuned to ensure compliance.....

  • 1 month later...

So, the car is going brilliantly, slowly wearing out the tyres, will need some new rubber soon, I'm thinking of going to 225, or a massive 235, maybe????

I'm dropping some leave soon and will have some free time, So...

I grabbed a 2.5" aftermarket overpipe.

The OEM overpipe is 2", the one I picked up is 2.5".

Plus the OEM one has crush bends, where as the new one is mandrel bends and made from multiple sections all welded up nice and pretty, or pretty enough for something that will never be seen again once installed.

 

As for power gains, somewhere around "who knows", maybe 3 donkey powers, maybe 2 torque torques.

Plus the cheapo eBay exhaust wrap should see some gains in itchyness during and after installation, win win.

The point of the purchase is I want to play with the car, I haven't had bleeding knuckles for ages.

Outlay for all the parts was only $140, I estimate it will take 4 Scotch and Cokes to do.

 

images (1).jpeg

  • Like 2

For such a little bit of exhaust it was a bit of a PITA.

I've never had to lift a engine, albeit only about 1", to fit an exhaust.

Anyways, the OEM pipe was rubbish.

 

20181206_151000.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

It rained, attempted to do mad skids, some where had, lower rpm saw mad axle tramp.

Now has subframe inserts installed (yeah I like pineapples), found some 1/2 price, sweet.

 

Surprisingly quite, in the 33 and MX5 the NVH from pineapples was much more noticable.

Need to test with some mad skids.

1 hour ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Make sure location marked as Mexico for it to be real. 

(waits for skids video) 

Video, LOL, a picture is possible, I know how to take and post pictures.

Video on the other hand, that requires mad youtube accounts skill and shit, of which, I have none

Either Mexico, or at work. 

SAUNSW needs to do a Khana so I can do skids and run over cones.

So, I went to work, hosed down the yard and did some skids, damn it, still hopping, not as bad but still, so.......went for a drive and hit some corners, I "think" I can feel a difference in and out of the corners from the bushing insertsinthe subframe, so it wasn't a total loss.

Driving home went past Just Jap and spent $80.

Lets see how this goes.

I cannot believe I'm going to this trouble just so I can do mad skids when it's raining.

 

 

20181218_130951.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2

And.....the diff support brace is....out.

Whilst it was good at its job, it was way to noisy, where I had no real increase in NVH from the subframe bushing inserts, the brace had "all of them".

As the car is a daily hack, the constant whining, vibration and clunks, which initially didn't bother me, ended up being a PITA.

"BECAUSENOTRACECAR"

It is now sitting in the bottom draw of my tool box, if I ever get to a khana or something I'll put it back on, it only takes about 5 minutes.

 

Or.....

I might end up getting the whiteline inserts.

Like sands through the hour glass, so are the days of our lives.........f**k

  • Like 1
45 minutes ago, Duncan said:

Mark....you were alive in the 70s.....

I rocked the 70's mate.

It might be early Alzheimer's, they say people revert back to their youth.

Or is it dementia?

Stupid clouds

  • Haha 1
17 minutes ago, robbo_rb180 said:

Much better 

Oh oh oh, .....runs to garage to get a tape measure before hitting googles......

Now....where did I put my keys 

  • Haha 1
On 12/23/2018 at 5:10 PM, mlr said:

Want

 

karbonetic-86-louver_.jpg

Maybe I am showing my age but I ran that style of rear window louvre on coupes, sedans and hatchbacks during the 70's and 80's.

During hot weather in coupes they reduce cabin temps a lot especially if your car has a large flat rear window.

Styling wise it comes down to the specific car - some looked good but most cars looked average. The Mach I Mustangs had them made from aluminium instead of plastic and they looked great.

Enough rambling for one day.

14 hours ago, robbo_rb180 said:

Want

278798552_images(3).jpeg.f44197db4f198c55e4035ca4fdaa0e2c.jpeg

 

And if you are really desperate I have one of the white ones still in one of our parts cars in the back yard.....

18 hours ago, Victory said:

Maybe I am showing my age but I ran that style of rear window louvre on coupes, sedans and hatchbacks during the 70's and 80's.

During hot weather in coupes they reduce cabin temps a lot especially if your car has a large flat rear window.

Styling wise it comes down to the specific car - some looked good but most cars looked average. The Mach I Mustangs had them made from aluminium instead of plastic and they looked great.

Enough rambling for one day.

And if you are really desperate I have one of the white ones still in one of our parts cars in the back yard.....

Yeah, I had them on some of my old cars in the 80's.

I'm gonna get the black plastic one for sure, I like the look, true, they aren't for everyone. Meh.

The main reason for it is to keep out the heat, with the amount of glass from the layed back rear window the car gets really toasty, plus it cannot be good for the interior.

Plus I really like the look, back flashing to my youth maybe.

  • Like 1

And.....the diff bush support brace is....back in.

Whilst it is all clunk and whine, it is way to good at its job to leave it off.

I use to be indecisive, but now, I'm not sure.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • well mate, while I hear your pain, turns out I don't feel it this time! Must have been a bastard of a job crammed into the boot The tank was very empty (probably pumped out, not dropped and drained because there were some fumes still) and in very good condition internally. I'm sure he never ran e85 in it I don't know what the hell Nissan's fuel tank engineers were thinking about their clipping system, this hanger was really hard to get moving but came out in the end All looks very good (as I'm starting to hopefully expect) and Matty was right it is an 023 (044) bosch which should be plenty for the injectors and turbo
    • Saturday 8th February 2025 8:30am Capped 26 entries Standard Entry Fee: $89 Members Entry Fee: $55 (SAU Victoria Only) Entries Close: Thursday 6th February 8pm. Supp Regs: TBC Disclaimer: Download  Please electronically sign and email to [email protected] or print and hand in and Driver Sign In. email [email protected] To compete in this event you will require A valid AASA General speed licence Or (Day license is $35.00 via the AASA Website) MA licenses no longer accepted A helmet, long sleeve clothing and it is reccomended a 1KG mounted fire extinguisher (But not Mandatory). Further details within Supp Regs Above. You can bring and have a passenger in the car but they need to comply to the same safety and clothing as driver. Entry Link >> https://www.sauvic.com.au/entry/deca/20250208 Entry List: 1. Martin Sullivan 2.  3.  4.  5.  6.  7.  8.  9. 10.  11. 12.   13. 14 15.  16.  17.  18.  19. 20.  21.  22.  23.  24.  25. 26.    Reserve list 1.  2.
    • I had absolutely no symptoms whatsoever that anything was wrong.... I'm very happy it was all spotto'd and re-bled and re-torqued and aligned though. Will be picking it up tomorrow and undoubtedly be like "Oh, that clunk is gone" "Oh, the car really wants to drive straight" "Oh, that pedal feels better" "Oh, it feels like I've gained 25hp" "Oh, the handbrake works now" It should have been a sign that the new Project Mu shoes had 3mm of pad depth on them out of the box, and the OEM ones from 25 years ago that we took out also had 3mm of pad depth, implying the issue was not, and never was the shoes, but we put that down to it not being adjusted correctly. It wasn't, but it wasn't even adjustable at all given one side was boned and the T Junction of the cables was on a 45 degree angle, the non-working side being the one on the massive angle. Obviously when I had adjusted it and reset it and re-tensioned it I had either got it stuck or something along those lines. Oh well. Live and learn and absolutely could have been catastrophically worse so I'm rationalizing it as a win, kinda. I also got the chance to measure the distance between rear rim and the suspension arm/shocks and found a 30mm rubber block only just doesn't fit there. Which is great to know before ordering wheels, when I assumed 30mm was easy. The man with the Porsche adapters has rims that use 23.9mm of that space, so it's safe to assume I have between 23.9 and 29.9mm of space there to play with on the inside. The wheels looked pretty stupidly pokey with the 20mm spacers on the rear, only for me to find that the studs come out another 12mm and the wheel doesn't actually sit flush with the hub because you're supposed to cut your original studs. The wheels do have cutouts that kinda accomodate it, but not fully. So my 20mm spacer was anywhere between 25mm and 35mm. ~25mm and send it will determine on where the wheels sit with the spacers on. When I put the pads in for the track day I will mess around with spacers (with wheels that do not clear studs properly when mounted to spacers) and do more math, for the last time, for the 7th time.
    • Lucky pick up Best to find these things before something horrible happened to the yoke flange thingies I would hate to think what would happen if it dropped the tailshaft  Hopefully the holes are not flogged out in the yokes and it was just the bolts that got munted  As for the hand brake.....ouch, look like the disc got rather hot, and I assume smokey, I recall when I had a front caliper seize on the Commodore, there was lots of smoke and the disc was glowing cherry red when I was able to eventually stop and have a look, and stopping a big heavy car, going down a big hill with some rather high RPM down shifts and some hand brake action is something that makes you think hard about life
    • One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that one side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
×
×
  • Create New...