Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my goal is to break 500whp yet still be a weekend driver

What i have

greedy FMIC

Apexi power intake kit

Tein coilovers and dampener kit

52mill radiator  

Parts list.

Q45 Airflow meter $100-150

Plenum , fuel rail, throttle body $1000 (for engine clean up only minimal performance increase)

Walbro 400LPH $200

ECU I have a haltech platinum Pro ecu kit, let me know if I should upgrade this to make 500hp (370rwkw)

Injectors 1000cc $1000-$1100

Carbon clutch twin plate with flywheel $2500 (for $300-500 more but can handle upto 800 hp, if anyone gets a gtt to 800 please fill out your will)

Camsharft poncam type b $700

Cam pullys $350

And the big one GT35R turbo kit $4200

Whiteline sway bars $700

any tips or advice or different products i should buy? 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474474-r34-gtt-parts-list/
Share on other sites

ECU will be fine.  You might consider that the best way to make 500rwkW will be with E85, in which case you would require larger injectors.  Not to mention some serious fuel pump + wiring.  A single Walbro 400 will be teetering on the edge on 98, let alone on pineapple juice.

Poncams are shit.  Think about getting something with more lift.  While on the topic, seriously think about a decent port job.  That's free power right there.

GT35R.  Um.  How about something with a T4 flange and a Borg Warner badge?  Top mount manifold, big external gate, big dump pipe and at least a MAC valve required for boost control here.

You will probably run out of spark before you get there. So budget for an ignition upgrade too.  At least some new stockers/Splitfires, but better option would be a pencil coil of some sort (Yaris/Celica/Audi/R35GTR, etc).

  • Like 1

Yuh.  Simple rule of thumb.  On petrol, on a 6 cylinder engine, each cc of capacity of a single injector is approximately 1HP.  1000cc -> ~1000HP. At the flywheel.  You take ~75% of that for conversion to kW.  So, 750kW.  You take 75% of that to account for typical* 25% chassis dyno losses, and 750 engine kW becomes ~560rwkW.  You need at least 30% extra fuel when running E85, so divide 560 by 1.3 to get a rough guide to how much power you can squeeze from 1000cc injectors on E85....It's only ~430.  A long way from 500.

* Aussie Dyno Dynamics dynos seem to throw about that much power into the air.  US dynos read higher fractions of the engine power.  Other countries/brands may be just about anywhere.

Now, keep in mind that the injector rule of thumb and the dyno loss and the E85 rule of thumb all have wiggle room in them, but realistically, not enough to say that you will be comfortably making 500rwkW..........And then I look at your OP again and realise that you said 500rwHP and that changes things.  That's only ~660 engine HP and therefore probably require up to ~900cc injectors.  So 1000cc injectors will probably do it.

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

GT35R.  Um.  How about something with a T4 flange and a Borg Warner badge?  Top mount manifold, big external gate, big dump pipe and at least a MAC valve required for boost control here.

so maybe this? twin scroll? (if twin .91 or 1.0) Borg Warner S300SX3 (S366) Turbocharger

if so can you help me out in picking a correct wastegate.

looks like i will need 4" dump 

and for a Mac just standard?

There's a number of people who like the S series Borg Warner turbos....but that's not what I was thinking of.  I was thinking of their modern tech turbos, the EFR range.

I strongly suggest that you start reading the various (dozens) of threads on here that already discuss all these things.  Also go to the BW website and play with their matchbot.

Wastegate will probably want to be 60mm, or possibly twin 40mm, depending on the manifold and the turbo chosen.  True split pulse manifolds and turbos deserve proper split pulse wastegating.

When it comes to the MAC valve......I don't know.  I assume you will be trying to use the Haltech to do boost control.  I do not know what its capabilities are (whether it can run only one valve or if it can run two).  One is usually enough.  You are asking for high power levels, which means boost control quality will be important.  Using an external gate at least allows you to use a multi-port MAC valve to apply control to both sides of the diaphragm.  There's more reading in that for you too.

You can get EFRs with internal or external wastegate exhaust housings.  The recirc valve is typically built into the compressor housing.  No, there is no "inbuilt" MAC valve.  The MAC valve is part of the boost controller setup, not the turbo (on any turbo).

I don't know specifically which housings are available for the 8374, because I'm not interested in putting a turbo that big on my car so I don't waste my time looking into it.  But there would have to be ~1000 posts on that turbo on these forums just in the last 6 months.  So there is plenty of info just on here, let alone on the BW website.

  • Like 1

The Borg Warner EFR DO come with a boost MAC solenoid, bolted to the compressor cover. It works well. In addition to the inbuilt Bov too.

IWG can be hit or miss with the EFR's. If in doubt, go external which has been proven to work great 100% of the time.

An 8374 will beat a GTX3582. Especially a GT3582. Consider a 7670, because that can and will do 370kw. (it has done up to 465 on E85 on some 2.5's)

  • Like 1
20 minutes ago, Kinkstaah said:

The Borg Warner EFR DO come with a boost MAC solenoid, bolted to the compressor cover. It works well. In addition to the inbuilt Bov too.

Cool.  Although I'm not sure why they bother.  Would that only be a typical 3 port valve to use with the internal WG?  I can't see someone with super tricky boost control on an ext WG wanting it.

  • Like 1

Eh it works as well as any 3 port mac valve. I used it on my setup when an official MAC product decided to rattle the center piston loose entirely. Can't say it was good or bad or any different really, but it exists and its something people are gonna need for boost control anyway.

Mounting a boost solenoid somewhere is always a headache of mild proportions, being able to bolt it directly to the compressor housing is nice enough. Makes for one hell of a short hose to the solenoid too, which is supplied. One less thing to worry about really

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @soviet_merlin Thanks mate!  Nothing too major but will hold me up for a while. I've got lymphomas to get taken off the back of my neck and the middle of my spine which always conjures scary thoughts!  It sounds worse than it is. Yeah great, conjuring more rabbit hole deepening , just what I need! 🤣  
    • I'd argue the F50 kit I got is very good value. For ~2k I got the calipers (refurbed condition), adapters, pads, brake lines, rotors, and top hats. I think you'd be pretty hard to get Evo/GTR/350z brembos + the additional hardware for similar money. Used market for a pair of front calipers alone I've seen tend to run anywhere from $1500-2000 depending on condition.    That said, something like a GTR or 350z brembo is a lot easier to adapt to the Silvia. 
    • Is there a significant price difference between the Evo/gtr/350z brembos vs the F50? Looks amazing.
    • I was actually being a tightarse at the time LOL... My OCD is tickling me into running a 2nd 8AN Teflon hose all the way down and removing the 2x OEM hardlines. My other side of my brain is telling me to run 2x hardlines front to back (also acts as a fuel cooler, so win win).
    • As I mentioned in an earlier post, I had some trouble with the Silvia's brakes dragging back in 2023. I managed to sort it out then, but the same problem came back to bite me late last year. Just take a look at the picture – I had a feeling the handbrake was acting up again, and I was right. Anyway, I'd been wanting to upgrade to bigger brakes for a while. Not that the Silvia's brakes were bad, but it was more of a "want" than a "need", you know? It was funny, though – at the time, I couldn't find any Evo Brembos, 350Z Brembos, or GTR Brembos for a decent price (of course, tons of them popped up online after I already bought my kit!). I ended up going with an F50 Brembo kit, which came with adapters, brake lines, 330mm rotors, and top hats. The F50 Brembo caliper was used in a few other cars too, like the FPV. I also decided this was the perfect opportunity to ditch the Silvia's ridiculous rear brakes and that awful handbrake (some of you were definitely right about that!). I picked up some R33 calipers and all the necessary bits – rear drums, backing plates, and new hardware to refurbish the calipers. Of course, it wouldn't be a project without a few hiccups. Turns out the brake master cylinder was playing up and basically (to put it simply) keeping the brakes engaged. I had it overhauled, and after some adjustments, everything was working again. The whole process took a while, as you can imagine. To top it off, the front right wheel bearings were shot and needed replacing too. This is a rare occasion where I'm posting an update while it's all still fresh! These pictures were taken just this afternoon.
×
×
  • Create New...