Need advice upgrading R34 GTT Turbo

[Danowner]

So I am making this post as I've searched the forums, and the posts I could find aren't fitting my personal situation. 

I've already got all the supporting mods for my turbo upgrade, Front facing Plenum, 6boost turbo/ exhaust manifold with T3 fitting, 1000cc injectors, walbro 460 fuel pump, all the gaskets you could dream for, electric boost controller (Already in), Blitz Nur Spec R exhaust, and a front mount intercooler.

I've tried making another post elsewhere on these forums reguarding a turbo upgrade, and said post got closed as apparently it's totally fine for people to insult a build, but it's not ok for people to make a new post on a forums, asking for help to suit their situation. My build is unique to 99% of builds on here, I am getting all my modifications engineered and permitted accordingly. I'll be installing all the mods myself, making sure they all apply to the legal standards (Plumbing back to exhaust, emissions) and then I'll be paying an engineer to get it certified.

For the turbo upgrade, I am wanting a minimum of 350HP, but I'm looking at around 400- 450HP. The turbo that I require will have to be with a T3 housing (I know garrett give the option for a lot of their turbos to suit multiple fittings). I have no experience with turbos at all, as my skyline is the first performance car I've owned. If someone could give some serious suggestions, someone who knows what they're talking about when it comes to cars, as to what Turbo is good, and what to avoid, that would be amazing. 

Also, forgot to mention, but I want this turbo for street performance, and a bit of track time, possibly drifting every now and then on track, so I'm not 100%, but I think that would mean I need a responsive turbo with high boost at low RPM? Cheers!

[admS15]

Garrett gtx3071 or gtx3076 gen 2. If you want to save some $ have a look at hypergear turbos, they have plenty of options for rb25. There is a thread with hundreds of pages of info in this site.

 

 

[KiwiRS4T]

There is nothing especially unique about your build. While it is true that every car is slightly different  there are literally hundreds  of examples for you to choose from in this thread

which is why your other thread was closed.

[hypergear]

We can build u an ATR45SAT ball bearing turbo. that is good enough to make over 400rwkws on E85 fuel or around 360rwkws on pump 98. super responsive, 20psi by 3700RPM. You can find results of it on dyno reading section. Add me on your FB I'm happy to provide you with more information or combination of other turbochargers as well as general mods required getting up to your performance goal. 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

What's your budget?

These turbos below are all good and listed in order of cost (my personal preference):

• Hypergear ATR45SAT CBB
• Garrett GTX3582R Gen 1 w 1.01 divided rear housing (need a new manifold to benefit the twin scroll)
• Garrett GTX3582R Gen 2 w 1.01 divided rear housing (need a new manifold to benefit the twin scroll)
• Borg Warner EFR8374 (but you'll need to get a new manifold, wrong flange)

[Danowner]

My budget would be about 2.5k at this current time. That HG turbo looks amazing, but the only thing that throws me off is the internal gate + minimum boost of 20PSI. This car is my daily, I want to be able to alter my boost controller, and run a chillaxed 10-12PSI for everyday cruising, and be able to up it to 20- 25ish PSI if I want to. I've heard that the whole twin scroll setups are good, although they offer high boost at low RPM, and then low boost at high RPM. I'm after something in the middle. Also, if anyone is able to help me with a very stupid question that I have no idea what the answer is: What do I need to know about the turbine housing fitting size? The whole 0.6 A/R and 1.0 A/R values. What does that mean? And with my engine, what sizing would I need? 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

HG makes them in external version too, I have one.

Get a Good external gate and run a 1bar spring with a 4 port MAC valve, go from 1 to 2 bar whatever makes you horny.

[KiwiRS4T]

5 hours ago, Danowner said:

? The whole 0.6 A/R and 1.0 A/R values. What does that mean? And with my engine, what sizing would I need? 

Stands for Area/Radius ratio. Simply put it is like gearing - a smaller number will usually spool up more quickly a larger will give more power at the top end...but there are many variables.  As I said before learn from other people - go to the RB25 turbo upgrade thread and see what different turbos do for each car. Unfortunately not everyone lists the A/R of their turbo but there is a lot to learn by reading through the thread . The ideal for you depends not so much on your engine as on your choice of turbo and intended use.

[tridentt150v]

On ‎7‎/‎15‎/‎2018 at 7:55 PM, admS15 said:

Garrett gtx3071 or gtx3076 gen 2. If you want to save some $ have a look at hypergear turbos, they have plenty of options for rb25. There is a thread with hundreds of pages of info in this site.

 

 

This...all wrapped up and ready to go!!! Don't overthink it, the Garrett GTX range and/or Hypergear setups are tried and proven and would be ideal for your setup.  And one with > 0.60 to <0.85 would be my pick.

Only single other bit of advice......stick with a reputable trader, don't buy from some 'fly by night' pop up shop that can't help with advice or after sales.  This way you know what your getting, its not some Chinese knock off.

[Danowner]

On 7/19/2018 at 2:07 PM, tridentt150v said:

This...all wrapped up and ready to go!!! Don't overthink it, the Garrett GTX range and/or Hypergear setups are tried and proven and would be ideal for your setup.  And one with > 0.60 to <0.85 would be my pick.

Only single other bit of advice......stick with a reputable trader, don't buy from some 'fly by night' pop up shop that can't help with advice or after sales.  This way you know what your getting, its not some Chinese knock off.

Cheers for the help everyone! I decided to go with the Hypergear ATR45 with ball bearing and 3" dump pipe. Should hopefully achieve close to 450HP at the wheels in a few weeks! Now I've got to organise a new exhaust, book in a tune, and book in an inspection to get it all engineer approved.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

It will go over 450HP at the wheels, the smaller ATR43SS2 went 499HP on mine for nearly 2 years before the motor went bang.

 

[Danowner]

Hey @Dose Pipe Sutututu do you actually know what makes the motor go 'bang' after a while? Is it lack of servicing? Lack of checking tension on belts? What actually makes the motor die after a while, and not straight after installing the mods? In your case, what specifically was the sole reason to your motor dying? pistons or something? Because I'm willing to check the main components, timing belt, oil, coolant, hoses, leaks every week to ensure nothing goes wrong. What was it in your case? And even other people's experiences too?

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Ringlands on the RB25DET break, on the NEO motor they don't seem to break at the 400kW mark but with enough heat/stress/abuse it will eventually go.

Mind you, mine was driven hard on track days. I would easily rack up about 60 to 80 laps each time I went to Wakefield Park. If my shit box was purely for street and the drag strip then I doubt it would have gone bang.

[Danowner]

Ah righto. Well that is interesting. Also FYI everyone, my turbo and plenum arrived today, so tomorrow I start the long, hard process of installing my fmic, ECU, fuel pump, injectors, turbo manifold, dump pipe, plenum and turbo. Will be a lot of fun re- doing the piping for the plenum I hear. Also, I was wondering.. My ECU that I bought had a tune with 1000cc injectors, walbro 460 fuel pump, fmic and bigger turbo. Would it be safe for me to drive the car maybe to a tune place as the mods I just listed are literally what will be in my setup. Or will the engine go bang? I understand the cylinder compression will 100% be different, but will that alone be enough for my car to go bang if I'm driving like a grandma to the tune shop which is about 10km away if that?? Cheers

[GTSBoy]

Stay below 2500 rpm and 25% throttle.  If it actually runs properly, you will be able to drive it.

[Danowner]

Ah ok. Sounds a bit risky, will just get it towed.