Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,
I'm in there process of deleting the factory heat exchanger from a rb26 block. i want to use a greedy/trust oil filter relocation kit.
What i was thinking of doing was, installing a oil pressure relief valve in the block. As the oil pressure relief valve is in the standard heat exchanger.
Installing a rb30 oil filter stud and sitting the greddy/trust (grex) adapter on the block. Then running my lines to my remote oil filter location.
Will oil pressure relief work ? will the grex adapter seal on the block ?
Genuine-Nissan-Oil-Filter-Pressure-Relief-Valve-15241-40F00-Nissan-RB.jpg.6f1ef36f39e8b030fe425a83ef81ae4f.jpgGenuine-Nissan-Oil-Filter-Stud-15213-W040A-Nissan-RB.jpg.63176deb5bb4d54058db17ef4157d66d.jpg37253670_10157611250223047_8495535437081739264_n.thumb.jpg.d6cfc9ca0e720558efc8b287b12c9c27.jpg




any experiences or knowledge will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

Genuine-Nissan-Oil-Filter-Stud-15213-W040A-Nissan-RB.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474531-rb26-oil-filter-housingadapter/
Share on other sites

Your method would work but say if the centre bolt gets loose you're going to be in a world of trouble.

I did this, seals 100%

JHH Racing oil block, has 2x 10AN outlets, 2x 1/8NPT for gauges and 1x M10 for the OEM oil temperature sensor.

 

20171129_195751_HDR.jpg

  • Like 1

Im putting a heat exchanger (oil to water) in a car that doesn't have one.

Just be wary of your oil temps, my old RB25/30 with only a oil to air cooler only ever got to 90°c after being up it for a while, that was without a thermostat, during daily driving my oil was never really at optimal temp, unless it was on the track. I ended up making a blanking plate for the front of the oil to air cooler for daily duties.

My STI had a oil to water and an oil to air cooler with a thermostat (although even with the thermostat closed it still flows some oil), it took at least twice as long for the oil to get to temp, during cold weather the oil could take up to 15 minutes to get to temp.

Have you worked out what size oil to air cooler you need to have the oil  in it's Goldilocks zone?

Disclaimer: you may be all over this, my point is I've spent a few years of finding out how not to have my oil temps running in a safe place, or, having to drive like a nanna for 15 minutes because my oil temp takes that long to warm up, from my experience the minimum oil temp of 90°c should be seen before the loud pedal gets a work out, unless you like replacing bearings that is, ......apparently...  ,,?????

  • Like 1

GREX plates all have thermostats in them, so it's not that bad, I also run a 25 row Setrab oil cooler (overkill, was like $50 to get the larger one, so why not? LOL)

What you can do on cruise/idle areas of the map is run heaps of ignition advance to warm up the motor quicker. Many OEM cars do this to speed up warming up the coolant (do it within moderation).

  • Like 1
40 minutes ago, r34unit said:

Would definitely be in trouble if the center bolt came loose @Dose Pipe Sutututu

i didn't take what size oil to air cooler you need to have the oil  in it's Goldilocks zone in consideration  @mlr

How was your oil temps before?

2 hours ago, mlr said:

How was your oil temps before?

same, fresh build, larger oil cooler (19 row to 25 row)

However in the past, oil would be about 85~100 on the street, and hard out at Wakefield on a 35 degree day would peak about 120 degrees after 6~8 hard out laps.

43 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

same, fresh build, larger oil cooler (19 row to 25 row)

However in the past, oil would be about 85~100 on the street, and hard out at Wakefield on a 35 degree day would peak about 120 degrees after 6~8 hard out laps.

Seems like you have a good hold on your temps.

You got a big sump??

I am also curious about the pressure relief, considering the oil pump has a relief valve to control pressure what is the intended purpose of this one? Is it there to prevent the oil filter from being over pressured?

I would not be concerned with the centre bolt coming loose considering a correctly tightened oil filter does not come loose.

47 minutes ago, mlr said:

Seems like you have a good hold on your temps.

You got a big sump??

Before motor went kaboom, stock sump overfilled by 1L

Now, 7L ASR baffled sump because I am stupid and spent too much money on my R33 and should have just bought a fast stock car.

55 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Before motor went kaboom, stock sump overfilled by 1L

Now, 7L ASR baffled sump because I am stupid and spent too much money on my R33 and should have just bought a fast stock car.

LOL, I resemble that

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome Jan, It's very likely that you are in over your head. You'll just have to learn to swim hard and fast! These old rust buckets have more ways to bankrupt us than almost any other car. But hopefully there's nothing wrong that ruins the whole show! We can help a fair bit. There's plenty here who've been fixing these things for >25 years. cheers
    • Hi all. First off, thanks for reading my post. So end of last season I put the car away knowing I was leaking at least two fluids. One of them being rear turbo's oil. I went to my car recently that is waiting in a garage to take a peek with my boroscope to try and see if I can narrow down the souce of oil before taking it out of storage. What I found is not so great I think. The rear turbo is (probably) leaking from the oil drain. The hose and it's clamps are probably the original ones, so most likely just worn out or loose. However I spotted a line of rust going straight down from the turbo oil feed, as if water leaked out of there at some point. Also explains the red liquid that was dripping from my front subframe, which I initially thought was power steering. I can even see coolant drops hanging off the side of the oil pan as well. After a quick hit on the web I found a select few discussions about porous engine blocks. My question is if the pics of the turbo oil feed and the left hand side of the block (imgur link below) looks like it could be exactly that to you. Maybe someone in the community has seen it before and knows what it looks like. If it actually is a porously leaking block, has anyone attempted at fixing it with simple methods like putting a sealer in the cooling system and using something like jb weld on the block surface, or will it just leak in 2 weeks again? I could not find any detailed info or pictures on this topic. If I need a new engine, tell me softly. https://imgur.com/a/knVvmZ8
    • Hey all. I'm 23 and from Germany, September last year I bought a mildly modded 1995 GTR Vspec. Looks great and was fun so far, but I already have a list of issues of various severity that I need to take care of, potentially growing longer the closer I look. I just hope I'm not in over my head, I really want to keep the car and work towards it becoming great. I hope y'all will help me out in getting there, I am positive I will need help sooner rather than later to figure out how to proceed. greetings, some pics of the car I posted to imgur. https://imgur.com/a/StKkabz
    • Would be interesting what the price would be without the barracuda wheels. Looks like he dropped it down to 40k. Maybe his mate wasn't correct about the 50k evaluation. Has always been a dream of mine to own an auto 33. Looks like I'll have to keep saving my pocket money or ask mum for more pocket money.
    • Thinking about importing a stagea as a family car since i’m getting married this year, thoughts? Me and my fiance both like stageas, but don’t have any experience with them
×
×
  • Create New...