Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So this rb25det s15 project has been a headache to say the least! 

Long story short the engine sustained some damage due to the cambelt snapping causing 2 valves to snap in the 3rd cyclinder (Luckily no damage to the piston or bore) right ill just buy another second hand head, skim it and slap it on i thought...

I brought a 1.3mm cometic MLS gasket, ARP headstuds for the installation. Cleaned the remaining gasket off the block and used a paint scraper along with a scotch brite pad to remove the old gasket but did not check the block for flatness ??

After getting everything torqued up properly in the sequence 20,40,60,80 ft/lbs and bolting the manifolds back on etc.

After running the engine for around 5mins i noticed alot of steam coming out from the rocker cover breathers and yeppp a gravy like substance underneath the oil cap..

So im assuming the gasket didn't seal properly between a water and oil gallary.

Can someone confirm?

This is freakin depressing ?

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474553-mls-gasket-mixing-water-with-oil/
Share on other sites

I only used water in the radiator just to get the engine running.

Im pretty sure this is not just residue water that could of got into the oil passages.

What do u guys reckon i should do from here. Im thinking of taking the head off again and using a stock gasket with copper spray and hopefully it will seal with the current roughness of the block. Don't really want to take the engine out of car to get the block skimmed..

Cheers for the replys

Edited by DropTheClutch

If your head and block has not been machined then it won't seal.

Cometic HG, although a pain in the arse to get right are actually very good. Just wrong application in a slapper job.

You need a Tomei o-ring head gasket or a Nitto one if your block hasn't been machined.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To be fair passengers who aren't silly and have been in proper fast cars have often been pretty impressed once you hit 4th gear   
    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
×
×
  • Create New...