Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Needing help resolving a problem....I have just inherited a saw bench operated by a 6 cylinder L26 engine and gearbox, but the engine seems seized....I haven't looked into what's wrong yet as I have no knowledge of these engines or gearboxes, but I'd like to know what would take its place if it's a boat anchor...

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474570-l26-engine-replacement/
Share on other sites

Almost any engine will do, so long as it is about the same size/power/torque.  These days, the smart thing to do would probably be to find an old Holden/Ford engine, or maybe an old other Nissan/Toyota of the same sort of vintage.  The reason is that anything much newer will be fuel injected, and then you need high pressure fuel pumps, the ECU, sensors, etc etc all working. Old carby/distributor engines are much simpler for this application.

If it were me though, I'd get an engine from a ute.  2.5 or 3L 4cyl fuel injected.

But see if you can oil the bores and get the old clunker turning first.

4 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Almost any engine will do, so long as it is about the same size/power/torque.  These days, the smart thing to do would probably be to find an old Holden/Ford engine, or maybe an old other Nissan/Toyota of the same sort of vintage.  The reason is that anything much newer will be fuel injected, and then you need high pressure fuel pumps, the ECU, sensors, etc etc all working. Old carby/distributor engines are much simpler for this application.

If it were me though, I'd get an engine from a ute.  2.5 or 3L 4cyl fuel injected.

But see if you can oil the bores and get the old clunker turning first.

I am certainly going to try to get the original engine going as it will be easier than having to source a new one not knowing what sort of Nissan this engine came out of....

Thanks for responding 

4 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Almost any engine will do, so long as it is about the same size/power/torque.  These days, the smart thing to do would probably be to find an old Holden/Ford engine, or maybe an old other Nissan/Toyota of the same sort of vintage.  The reason is that anything much newer will be fuel injected, and then you need high pressure fuel pumps, the ECU, sensors, etc etc all working. Old carby/distributor engines are much simpler for this application.

If it were me though, I'd get an engine from a ute.  2.5 or 3L 4cyl fuel injected.

But see if you can oil the bores and get the old clunker turning first.

What other engines will this gearbox fit if I can't get it going and can't get another L26 ???

6 minutes ago, Bohunter said:

I am certainly going to try to get the original engine going as it will be easier than having to source a new one not knowing what sort of Nissan this engine came out of....

Thanks for responding 

It would have come out of a 260Z or a 260C sedan, seeing as that's about the only cars that had them here in Australia.

2 minutes ago, Bohunter said:

Could you elaborate a little bit more for me please as I'm not familiar with anything Nissan...

Thanks for the input so far....much appreciated...at least I have that engine number you supplied..

Cheers

He's having a joke, because the RB26 is the distant descendant of the L26, and is the motor from the R32-4 GTRs and is the answer to every question (other than those questions to which the answer is LS1 or 2JZ).

 

7 minutes ago, Bohunter said:

What other engines will this gearbox fit if I can't get it going and can't get another L26 ???

Any Nissan L series engine will fit the box.  That's all the 6s and the 4s.  The 4s are a likely to be a little weak for the task.  There were also some other Nissan 4s, with bigger sizes that I think share the same block/box mounting pattern.  I think the Z series are like that, but I'm not enough of an old Nissan tragic to know or care.

I think if you have to change the engine, you would consider changing the gearbox too, because an old manual box for an old Ford/Holden/Nissan/Toyota shitter engine won't break the bank and will vastly open up your options.  To be honest, when you said the engine was running a sawbench, I did not even picture it with a gearbox.  I figured some direct flywheel attachment was in order.

If you really want to power it up, get a 3.8L V6 from an old Commodore, along with the manual box and the necessary fuel injection gear and make it turn the bench upside down on throttle crack!

On 7/24/2018 at 1:21 PM, GTSBoy said:

It would have come out of a 260Z or a 260C sedan, seeing as that's about the only cars that had them here in Australia.

He's having a joke, because the RB26 is the distant descendant of the L26, and is the motor from the R32-4 GTRs and is the answer to every question (other than those questions to which the answer is LS1 or 2JZ).

 

Any Nissan L series engine will fit the box.  That's all the 6s and the 4s.  The 4s are a likely to be a little weak for the task.  There were also some other Nissan 4s, with bigger sizes that I think share the same block/box mounting pattern.  I think the Z series are like that, but I'm not enough of an old Nissan tragic to know or care.

I think if you have to change the engine, you would consider changing the gearbox too, because an old manual box for an old Ford/Holden/Nissan/Toyota shitter engine won't break the bank and will vastly open up your options.  To be honest, when you said the engine was running a sawbench, I did not even picture it with a gearbox.  I figured some direct flywheel attachment was in order.

If you really want to power it up, get a 3.8L V6 from an old Commodore, along with the manual box and the necessary fuel injection gear and make it turn the bench upside down on throttle crack!

I pulled the plugs out &  found cylinders 2 & 4 full of water...after blowing out the water I put a cap full of oil in all the cylinders then put tension on the crankshaft and tail shaft/drive shaft with 3 foot stilson and a  fence strainer because I don't have a chain block.... I'll see if anything happens.....

On 7/27/2018 at 8:28 AM, GTSBoy said:

You might have to pull it apart and give it a prostitute's rebuild.

That's why I wanted another engine....I really don't want to rebuild an old engine....

I'd really like to find an old car still running for the engine...

But I don't know what car to chase down...

My 2 cents is anything with a carbie, I've seen a ton of waterpumps running on old 202 motors, hell some old diesel 4 cylinder engine would probably be better torque wise.

You could most likely pick up a old banger for a couple of hundred and then sell the L26 and not lose a cent in the process.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From the pictures I have when doing the job the flywheel is the same diameter, I don't think they're playing weird tricks like putting weights at the outer diameter to increase flywheel inertia or anything like that. The OEM flywheel is definitely heavier, but it's not a huge difference. Quoted weight savings of the clutch is 2 kg so I can't imagine the flywheel being lighter than ~7 kg. Kind of regret not weighing it before the clutch went into the car but as far as driveability goes I have no complaints.
    • HKS trigger kit should be very easy to integrate with a Link. It's a 36-2 crank trigger. Hard part is finding the motivation to take off the timing belt and everything on the front of the engine to install it. You also need to cut out a hole in the oil pump housing so the sensor can read the trigger wheel. Changing out the cam sensor for a 24 tooth setup is probably good enough but as others have mentioned depending on what underlying assumptions are changed it becomes more of a problem. Reading the crank state off of the cam is an abstraction that works in the general case, but if you have an edge case it makes less and less sense. There is a GTX2860 gen 2 that can take a compact 5 bolt housing so it's direct bolt on but I'm not 100% sure of what's involved. Peak compressor efficiency drops off a bit on these turbos vs -5s, 77% vs 73% but you get way, way wider region of operation. The -5s have a really strange surge line in their compressor map that is all over the place. If you think the hot side on the -5s aren't open enough you can try the Tomei T550B turbos which a local tuner seems to be happy with:
    • i need a complete tail light for my R33 GTR if you have please let me know.
    • I need a great maintenance workshop around Idaho, if you know one please let me know..
    • Hello friends, i have a good friend in Canada that looking for a good condition 1993 GTR around him please if one or know someone around you that is willing to let it go please let me know so that i can inform him.....Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...