Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Needing help resolving a problem....I have just inherited a saw bench operated by a 6 cylinder L26 engine and gearbox, but the engine seems seized....I haven't looked into what's wrong yet as I have no knowledge of these engines or gearboxes, but I'd like to know what would take its place if it's a boat anchor...

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474570-l26-engine-replacement/
Share on other sites

Almost any engine will do, so long as it is about the same size/power/torque.  These days, the smart thing to do would probably be to find an old Holden/Ford engine, or maybe an old other Nissan/Toyota of the same sort of vintage.  The reason is that anything much newer will be fuel injected, and then you need high pressure fuel pumps, the ECU, sensors, etc etc all working. Old carby/distributor engines are much simpler for this application.

If it were me though, I'd get an engine from a ute.  2.5 or 3L 4cyl fuel injected.

But see if you can oil the bores and get the old clunker turning first.

4 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Almost any engine will do, so long as it is about the same size/power/torque.  These days, the smart thing to do would probably be to find an old Holden/Ford engine, or maybe an old other Nissan/Toyota of the same sort of vintage.  The reason is that anything much newer will be fuel injected, and then you need high pressure fuel pumps, the ECU, sensors, etc etc all working. Old carby/distributor engines are much simpler for this application.

If it were me though, I'd get an engine from a ute.  2.5 or 3L 4cyl fuel injected.

But see if you can oil the bores and get the old clunker turning first.

I am certainly going to try to get the original engine going as it will be easier than having to source a new one not knowing what sort of Nissan this engine came out of....

Thanks for responding 

4 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Almost any engine will do, so long as it is about the same size/power/torque.  These days, the smart thing to do would probably be to find an old Holden/Ford engine, or maybe an old other Nissan/Toyota of the same sort of vintage.  The reason is that anything much newer will be fuel injected, and then you need high pressure fuel pumps, the ECU, sensors, etc etc all working. Old carby/distributor engines are much simpler for this application.

If it were me though, I'd get an engine from a ute.  2.5 or 3L 4cyl fuel injected.

But see if you can oil the bores and get the old clunker turning first.

What other engines will this gearbox fit if I can't get it going and can't get another L26 ???

6 minutes ago, Bohunter said:

I am certainly going to try to get the original engine going as it will be easier than having to source a new one not knowing what sort of Nissan this engine came out of....

Thanks for responding 

It would have come out of a 260Z or a 260C sedan, seeing as that's about the only cars that had them here in Australia.

2 minutes ago, Bohunter said:

Could you elaborate a little bit more for me please as I'm not familiar with anything Nissan...

Thanks for the input so far....much appreciated...at least I have that engine number you supplied..

Cheers

He's having a joke, because the RB26 is the distant descendant of the L26, and is the motor from the R32-4 GTRs and is the answer to every question (other than those questions to which the answer is LS1 or 2JZ).

 

7 minutes ago, Bohunter said:

What other engines will this gearbox fit if I can't get it going and can't get another L26 ???

Any Nissan L series engine will fit the box.  That's all the 6s and the 4s.  The 4s are a likely to be a little weak for the task.  There were also some other Nissan 4s, with bigger sizes that I think share the same block/box mounting pattern.  I think the Z series are like that, but I'm not enough of an old Nissan tragic to know or care.

I think if you have to change the engine, you would consider changing the gearbox too, because an old manual box for an old Ford/Holden/Nissan/Toyota shitter engine won't break the bank and will vastly open up your options.  To be honest, when you said the engine was running a sawbench, I did not even picture it with a gearbox.  I figured some direct flywheel attachment was in order.

If you really want to power it up, get a 3.8L V6 from an old Commodore, along with the manual box and the necessary fuel injection gear and make it turn the bench upside down on throttle crack!

On 7/24/2018 at 1:21 PM, GTSBoy said:

It would have come out of a 260Z or a 260C sedan, seeing as that's about the only cars that had them here in Australia.

He's having a joke, because the RB26 is the distant descendant of the L26, and is the motor from the R32-4 GTRs and is the answer to every question (other than those questions to which the answer is LS1 or 2JZ).

 

Any Nissan L series engine will fit the box.  That's all the 6s and the 4s.  The 4s are a likely to be a little weak for the task.  There were also some other Nissan 4s, with bigger sizes that I think share the same block/box mounting pattern.  I think the Z series are like that, but I'm not enough of an old Nissan tragic to know or care.

I think if you have to change the engine, you would consider changing the gearbox too, because an old manual box for an old Ford/Holden/Nissan/Toyota shitter engine won't break the bank and will vastly open up your options.  To be honest, when you said the engine was running a sawbench, I did not even picture it with a gearbox.  I figured some direct flywheel attachment was in order.

If you really want to power it up, get a 3.8L V6 from an old Commodore, along with the manual box and the necessary fuel injection gear and make it turn the bench upside down on throttle crack!

I pulled the plugs out &  found cylinders 2 & 4 full of water...after blowing out the water I put a cap full of oil in all the cylinders then put tension on the crankshaft and tail shaft/drive shaft with 3 foot stilson and a  fence strainer because I don't have a chain block.... I'll see if anything happens.....

On 7/27/2018 at 8:28 AM, GTSBoy said:

You might have to pull it apart and give it a prostitute's rebuild.

That's why I wanted another engine....I really don't want to rebuild an old engine....

I'd really like to find an old car still running for the engine...

But I don't know what car to chase down...

My 2 cents is anything with a carbie, I've seen a ton of waterpumps running on old 202 motors, hell some old diesel 4 cylinder engine would probably be better torque wise.

You could most likely pick up a old banger for a couple of hundred and then sell the L26 and not lose a cent in the process.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Por que no los dos? At least my euro brawler is reliable - unlike the JDMs I've had. Sheraaz you look familiar, did you ever come to an SAU VIC meet aaaaaages ago?
    • Drove to Cape Schanck to try to get a nice clear southern view over the ocean to see the lights a couple of days ago... instead got crappy cloud cover. Photo of a diorama of Hong Kong street scene. Taken on an iPhone 13 Pro Max.
    • Stock RB fuel pressure is near enough 43.5 psi, so the latency in that table at 31.6 will be close. You can see that 7 or 8 psi equates to about 0.4µs extra latency. So if you wanted to interpolate between the 31.6 and 39.9 psi values you could say you're going up about 2 psi out of those 8, so add about 0.1µs, which is barely worth talking about and is quite possibly wrong because ideally you would fix the latency while running at the appropriate conditions on the dyno, with a wideband sniffing its butt.
    • The pressure, is what you set the fuel pressure to. If you have the factory fuel reg, you'll need to find the factory spec. I don't know it off the top of my head, but someone else might.
    • For others, what GTSBoy states here should be paid attention. Why? Well lots of people play with different engines, and they LOVE to change things like remove AC, or steering pumps etc, and it lends to them needing to move the tensioner too. You want your tensioner, particularly those that are sprung or hydraulically tensioned, to be the first thing after the harmonic balancer, or technically the "last" pulley in the chain. By saying last pulley, I mean look at the direction the crank spins when the engine is running, follow the belt from where the crank is pulling the belt FROM, and keep following that until you're between the last pulley/accessory on the belt and about to reach the crank again, this is the spot where you put the tensioner. This is the area that will always end up with slack. This is worked out exactly the same way for chains too, as the physics is the same for them. The crank pulley is where all the force to drag the belt around comes from. You will never ever get rid of the slack that appears, especially under load. The tensioners job is to keep the belt loose enough when stationary that there shouldn't be out of sync movement in slow movement, and then be tight enough when running, that the belt can't jump off any gear and get damaged. Too tight, bad things happen, too loose, bad things happen. Have a tensioner (mainly sprung/hydraulic one) in the wrong spot, it can't actually do anything about keeping the tension.
×
×
  • Create New...