Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

sorry I know parts of this have been covered and it has been a massive help!! Although I have an issue:

i have an rb20det in my s13, there are no looms in the car apart from the engine loom & fuel pump wires. 

All plugged in and I have 3 power wires into the ecu & 6 ground wires out of the ecu; the car turns over and has injectors tick and fuel spray when fuel relay activated but I have NO SPARK.

i have power, earth and signal continuity from the ecu going to all the coils, cas and injectors; ami missing something from the ecu to tell coils to spark?

i swapped the igniter for a working one(same issue), should I try swapping cas and ecu?

 

thank you guys and sorry if I can’t find the info.

regards,

kev ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/474606-rb20det-stand-alone-factory-unit/
Share on other sites

Entirely possible the ECU's ignition outputs have been fried.  Try putting a test light from power to an ignition line from the ECU (at the ignitor would be convenient and see if you even get a flicker of light when the ECU should be switching the output to ground.  Pulsewidth might not be enough to get a glow, but if you do get a glow, at least you can assume that that ECU output is working.

Thank you mate, I’ll try that now and see how it goes, would it be best to mock up a led test light due to low voltage?

32 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Entirely possible the ECU's ignition outputs have been fried.  Try putting a test light from power to an ignition line from the ECU (at the ignitor would be convenient and see if you even get a flicker of light when the ECU should be switching the output to ground.  Pulsewidth might not be enough to get a glow, but if you do get a glow, at least you can assume that that ECU output is working.

 

If you know anyone with a portable LCD CRO or are willing to buy a cheap USB one for your phone, you could test the waveform more thoroughly.  Otherwise, you may be into the realm of swaptronics.

Actually, if you have or can borrow an analogue multimeter, you might see something on that.  It should sit at 12V (if you probe the ignitor connection from the ECU with the other side of the meter on earth).  If the ECU pulls the ignitor down to earth, even briefly, it might be enough to make the needle flicker down from 12V.

Hey guys, update on the thread- now I have spark (ignition switch wire at the ecu needed relay power to it?)

now I don’t have an injector pulse haha. Injectors have power at each side however it’s not being switched via the ecu; would this happen if the timing was180 degrees out? I ran a new relay to feed the constant injector line, but still no good. Ecu is earthed at pin 107,108 and 116. Also 50 &60

 

have I missed something or do I ha e a dodgy cas or ecu?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, so all I can suggest is that - if you have all the parts, and you have all the wiring looms, and you have all the electronic modules, then....it really is just a wiring problem. You likely have a damaged wire, pin, etc, somewhere.
    • Yup, bought this bad boy and hopefully it will be ready to pickup today. Had $5 credit on top of it so it worked out really well!
    • Yeah it is really until until you get a feel for it....then it is easy. Which is no use to you really. I'd buy that torque wrench. One thing from sure, many (most?) tyre shots overtighten the f**k out of wheel nuts, so don't worry if they were tighter when you tried to take them off compared to when you do them up. I've had some crazy tight ones come back from shops, quite apart from the potential damage to the thread, I can't see a smaller person taking the wheel off on the side of the road
    • Hey mate, thread dredging hahah To answer you directly, yes I had my itbs oversized and custom butterflies etc made by EFI Hardware in Sydney back around 2017-2018 if memory serves. My setup had a vast amount of other changes too though, so no direct comparisons unfortunately. i went from oem itbs, HPI manifold and internal gate hks 2835 pro S; to 49mm itbs, cnc port matched Nismo plenum, RB25 Neo lower runner adapter hand port matched, r31house v2 Takoashi MAX equal length twin scroll manifold with twin 38mm tial gates and a FP HTA3076 with 1.01ar twin scroll real hosing. feom power Fc to a link fury wired by 12volt, r32 gtr fuel tank conversion with frenchys twin 460 / surge tabk fuel hanger combo kit, 1659cc injectors, full 4 inch turbo back stainless exhaust, Z34 6 speed, Tomei 2way with 4.3 final drive and a ton of other shit. ive posted elsewhere here with complete run down, but here's a graph from its initial tune with no boost control on, 20psi gate springs only and e85.   7542AE72-DA92-4E0B-8660-B0940FEA7F24.mov
    • On sale mate, $55. Sorted. https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/toolpro-toolpro-torque-wrench-1-2-drive/565734.html?utm_content=paidsearch-pmax&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwytS-BhCKARIsAMGJyzqYEnwWmhWf6gxTST_Nz06Gd2VePgyvL7lh6PWrQtbjXTsI6TqSCLEaAuaCEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
×
×
  • Create New...