Spread Yo Cheeks And Lift Yo Sack... Imma teach you how to build a ER34 son!

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Becareful not to drill too far in with the head drain, because you'll essentially need to remove the head to clean up the swarf you've dropped into the motor lol.

I didn't bother with one (wish me luck).

I installed some BS harden engine mounts by vibrant or some bs.. the car vibrates a bit and I hate it.

[iruvyouskyrine]

Head drain is a band aid. Proper catch can setup is a solution.

[WantGTR]

5 hours ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

Head drain is a band aid. Proper catch can setup is a solution.

Engine is out. Easy to do head drain. Should be doing both especially if you are going to turn it up.

I'm using nismo engine mounts. Look exactly the same as the stock ones. Probably can't tell when driving but it definitely vibrates nuts loose. Use blue loctite on whatever you can.

[Vodkashotx]

9 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Becareful not to drill too far in with the head drain, because you'll essentially need to remove the head to clean up the swarf you've dropped into the motor lol.

I didn't bother with one (wish me luck).

I installed some BS harden engine mounts by vibrant or some bs.. the car vibrates a bit and I hate it.

The swarf is one of the main reasons why I have not put this to top priority.

 

8 hours ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

Head drain is a band aid. Proper catch can setup is a solution.

This is what I thought, But how much oil are we talking about here.

-----------------

What I would straight out like to know is just how much oil are we talking here getting pooled in the head, Especially after restrictions etc on a neo motor.

[iruvyouskyrine]

front 1.0mm block rear will solve 80% of the problem, the other 20% is a catch can that relieves crankcase pressure and lets oil return to the sump through the oil drains as the system was designed

[Vodkashotx]

Decided to not go down the path of a head drain, I figure a good catch can setup along with the restrictors that were fitted should do the job. Once I have the motor in and I can see how much oil and its condition I'll see if it's worth returning it back to the sump.

Dropped the gearbox to get ready for push/pull conversion. I won't lie in saying that I am a little hesitant to do it entirely myself as I have never actually had to use a die and tap before. The last thing I want is old butter fingers here to drill into my bell housing cock-eyed the punch thread that I am certain; Will somehow catch fire homer style. So jus' wait in for mate.





Change the fuel rail back to the raceworks one as the return is better suited for dual feed. Waiting for a belt set to come in the mail next week and motor is ready to go. Par this chip on the HB which I am deciding to replace or not...



Also took the time to throw the interior bit in, Gauges, Cluster and seat. Only the drivers as these stradia XL copies don't fold all the way in. 10 years ago I wouldn't have cared and gutted the rear, But now I want to be able to share the experience with the kids from time to time. Key's racing wheel (Feels great, But the build quality feels poor. The alignment of the stitch isn't center and that irks me a little for a wheel I paid near $500 for, But I guess I have to live with it as I believe these are still hand made)

But the office now feels great and a lot more "personal" rather than generic GTT.





I'm thinking of maybe just going a sparco fixed back...





 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 16, 2019 by Vodkashotx

[admS15]

You going from pull to push? Why?

I took a similar pic earlier this week.

[Vodkashotx]

8 minutes ago, admS15 said:

You going from pull to push? Why?

I took a similar pic earlier this week.

No real options for less than 3k without doing push/pull.

[admS15]

Ahh, i understand. I'm in the process of replacing a blown box in my r33. I couldn't get a new 33 box as they've been discontinued but i was able to get a brand new r34 box which im going to convert from pull to push by changing the front cover/bell housing from my 33 box over. That way I don't have to drill anything or buy any additional parts.

[Vodkashotx]

Got the push pull done finally. Cbf'd taking pics.. It's the same ol box with a different front housing and slave.

Now setting up fuel system before I put the motor back in, Just wondering; Is running braided PTFE under the vehicle ok? It would make my life a million times easier than making up steel lines and feeding them through the impossible gaps (most likely drop the tank...)

[Vodkashotx]

Also people got images of how they got their surge tanks setup?

[NEO25T]

On 4/3/2019 at 6:22 PM, Vodkashotx said:

Got the push pull done finally. Cbf'd taking pics.. It's the same ol box with a different front housing and slave.

Now setting up fuel system before I put the motor back in, Just wondering; Is running braided PTFE under the vehicle ok? It would make my life a million times easier than making up steel lines and feeding them through the impossible gaps (most likely drop the tank...)

I ran mine under the car where the standard lines were, just had to open up the plastic clips that held the old lines. I ran -8 feed -6 return, no surge tank in mine i just ran 2 walbro pumps in tank

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

[Vodkashotx]

Push pull done, Transmission remounted, ABS delete Done, Solid engine mounts in.

Knew it was too good to be true, Just realized I lost an engine mount bracket during the house move. D`:

 

[Vodkashotx]

Hey guys,

Wondering if anyone could give me some assistance;

Ripped out the Hicas computer as I want to place the surge tank and pumps in the rear shelf. I have a lock out bar on the hicas system. (Yes, I'm gonna get an eliminator kit. Just want to get the motor in the car first)

Is the safe to do?

Edited May 6, 2019 by Vodkashotx

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

You need it, if not your steering wheel will be heavy as fk! The hicas computer also calculates the steering assistance required based on wheel speed and steering angle.

[timmy_89]

40 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

You need it, if not your steering wheel will be heavy as fk! The hicas computer also calculates the steering assistance required based on wheel speed and steering angle.

I noticed more of a difference to steering adding wide r comps than I did removing the hicas computer which was at least 3 years ago. I obviously  wouldn't be concerned personally lol ?

[Vodkashotx]

Do I need to put the HICAS and ABS computers back?

(Which one is which?!)

[Count Grantleyish]

Chuck HICAS computer.

But drive it first and see if you can cope with the steering, which may take a while seeing you still got to find the motor mount bracket.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

On 5/7/2019 at 4:08 PM, Vodkashotx said:

Do I need to put the HICAS and ABS computers back?

(Which one is which?!)

In a R33, ABS is the smaller one.