Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi and welcome to :sau:

You should do a search on here as a lot of questions have already been asked and answered. Otherwise you can ask a new question in the relevant forum.

Good luck!

 

Thanks I have done a bit of research and found a Carr that I like. I have run a Japanese history check, had the auction papers translated and done a revs and car history check just wanted to make sure everything was legit and what to look for with specific models. Does anyone know how to get a Nissan FAST check? 

be careful with one of the compliance workshops they use. I had a very bad experience with Import Revolution in Bayswater Victoria. I'd stay well clear of them. Pm me if you want to know more. 

Edited by jaysevu
On 9/12/2018 at 7:12 AM, Peacey62 said:

This is the car I am looking at if anyone knows about it or anything it would be a massive help. Check out this Nissan Skyline.
https://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/Nissan-Skyline-2001/OAG-AD-16061958

Just sold... to you? If so congrats!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just a follow-up on this topic. From what I can tell so far the rusty residue on the engine block might be unrelated to a coolant leak or maybe just older than anticipated. After driving it from the winter garage to my friend's garage I could not see any new traces of coolant leaking there, but I will test this properly once I was able to fully warm up the car and drive it for a bit. I think I can agree that the whole porous engine block stuff is kind of nonsense, but there is just a silly amount of true, false and half-true information on anything Skyline-related on the internet.
    • hrmmm , not mine , easter plans to pull engine not happening     
    • I removed the IACV, cleaned it and reinstalled.  I found a video on youtube that helped with the whole process, the guy then said the idle needed to be set, so the process was to get the vehicle up to operating temperature, unplug the TPS, set the idle screw in the IACV so the RPMs were around 600, then plug the TPS back in.  After I reinstalled the IACV, the car started (because, it was a cold start), once it warmed up, the car died, I adjusted the idle screw to see if that helped anything, it did not, I had to wait about 3-5 minutes, then the car would start back up. Only to shortly cut out, and only crank.  I loosened the TPS to see if adjusting that would do anything, and when I would rotate the sensor clockwise, there was a humming noise, but it would go away when I got the sensor in the horizontal position.  It only made the hum noise with the key on.  What do you guys think? 20250414_172604.mp4
    • Quick update.  The engine grounding strap was replaced, the engine is now happily running.  Tested the voltage drop before replacing the strap, was about 1.2ish volts down between engine to battery, chassis to battery. With the new grounding strap, pretty much no voltage drop at all. 
×
×
  • Create New...