Jump to content
SAU Community

Current state of the game for single turbos


Lithium
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi all, 

There have been all kinds of conversations on and off SAU about single turbo options for RBs (and other engines really) in the current state of the game and while I've not seen any evidence of compressor maps being inaccurate, different manufacturers use different ways to normalise and present the numbers, different cut off points, and different ways of estimating hp from compressor flow which can result in people expecting too much or too little from their turbos.

I've decided to semi-roughly translate it all into an even measure and shove what I consider "the most relevant" turbos for most people who would be talking about turbo choices in here, and split the compressor flow potential they have at 20psi, 25psi and 30psi - using "65% compressor efficiency" as a cut off.   Those are fairly familiar and reasonable reference points, and as you exceed 65% I view it that it's where the intercooler and hotside are starting to have to carry disproportionately more of the load to keep things happier.  This is the "you're pushing it" zone, imho - even if it's not really maxing the turbo out.    It seems to be a reasonable way of gauging them on a similar scale if you're going to being matching the turbos for real world performance.

It may not be PERFECT but I think it gives enough of an idea of how they may compare, I'm pretty sure all these turbos have hot side options which are pretty close to supporting the exhaust flow needed these days - give or take, but some of the numbers here may explain a few interesting things seen..

Hope it's vaguely interesting reading :) :)

Turbo 20psi 25psi 30psi
GTX3071R  50 52 53
GTX3071R Gen2 51 52 53
EFR7670 53 56 57
S257SX-E 54 57 60
G25 660  55 60 59
GTX3076R 59 61 62
Gen2 GTX3076R 59 61 62
GTW3476R 60 64 67
EFR8374 65 68 69
GTX3582R 70 72 74
Gen2 GTX3582R 70 75 77
EFR9180 74 79 84
GTX3584RS 75 80 84
Edited by Lithium
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

And because people like this kind of thing, a loose translation of what kind of area these flow figures may convert to in dyno numbers if everything else is up to the task.  
 

Bare in mind, these numbers are not what I'd say are "on kill", but where the compressor is starting to really earn it's keep - they should have more to give, but the things start working harder to get there and you start moving more into "how optimised is this setup" territory.  These numbers aren't a guarantee of what setups WILL hit using these turbos, it's what the turbos should be able to achieve working reasonably hard - but not too hard... and of course me making a bunch of assumptions lol.  

 

Turbo 20psi 25psi 30psi
GTX3071R 339 352.6 359.3
GTX3071R Gen2 345.78 352.6 359.3
EFR7670 359.34 379.7 386.5
S257SX-E 366.12 386.5 406.8
G25 660  372.9 406.8 400
GTX3076R 400.02 413.6 420.4
Gen2 GTX3076R 400.02 413.6 420.4
GTW3476R 406.8 433.9 454.3
EFR8374 440.7 461 467.8
GTX3582R 474.6 488.2 501.7
Gen2 GTX3582R 474.6 508.5 522.1
EFR9180 501.72 535.6 569.5
GTX3584RS 508.5 542.4 569.5
Edited by Lithium
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, KiwiRS4T said:

Interesting to see how little extra power is generated by some turbos with an extra 10 psi (as low as 14kw) while other turbos gain much more ...such as the EFR9180 with an extra 60kw

100%.  One of the reasons I decided to break it down as often people just seem to look at the power claims or the peak airflow levels without considering the compressor efficiency.     

The EFR9180 doesn't really seem to be a turbo best suited to a setup which can flow a heap of air in it's own right, at least based off what I've done here it would indicate it'd roll over early if you treated it like a 90lb/min turbo and tried to flow that at relatively low boost.   On the flipside, you could potentially shove one on a solid RB26 and crank a heap of boost through it and potentially make more power than you would with an RB32 with big cams capable of making lots of power without heaps of boost

Link to comment
Share on other sites

https://bmw.spoolstreet.com/attachments/c92a58335a9c242d64ec466cfc9172ee_zpsniwwkwsu-jpg.13075/

 

Man I wish the 8474 was a thing.. maybe too good to be true.

20-25-30psi

77-84-91 lb/min

also, G series hopefully scales well. Med and large frames are going to be beasts. if the G25-660 is smaller in every way than a gtx3071.

 

Edited by burn4005
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, burn4005 said:

Man I wish the 8474 was a thing..

20-25-30psi

77-84-91 lb/min

also, G series hopefully scales well. Med and large frames are going to be beasts.

 

Fark yeah, good call on mapping the 8474 in there - GET ON IT Borg.  That would change the game if it delivered on that :o    

Also +1 on the G-series scaling.  

This stuff is all on paper, but imho the simple job of just compiling some points into one list kind of explains some of the things we see happening in practice on some of these turbos.

The G25-660 with a .92a/r hotside could be quite a surprising beast on an RB25....

Edited by Lithium
Link to comment
Share on other sites

yea the 8374 getting close to all in at 26psi/65%, but the 84 is just getting started.

literally off the chart... might be hitting a sonic stonewall or something so they stopped mapping to the right, still fine rpm wise.

Edited by burn4005
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree Garrett has the potential to do great things with the G series . I'm thinking the compressors and turbines wouldn't have to be a whole lot bigger to put them in the power range that the fast road market is really interested in .

If they keep the same frame size and have housings similar to the G25s , in for example a G28/G30 series , then we can have efficient responsive turbos . Keeping them compact and having reliable hot sides is where they could have it over the EFRs .  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

24 minutes ago, discopotato03 said:

I agree Garrett has the potential to do great things with the G series . I'm thinking the compressors and turbines wouldn't have to be a whole lot bigger to put them in the power range that the fast road market is really interested in .

If they keep the same frame size and have housings similar to the G25s , in for example a G28/G30 series , then we can have efficient responsive turbos . Keeping them compact and having reliable hot sides is where they could have it over the EFRs .  

The funny thing is that G25-660 already has a hotside which is comparable to the biggest hotside available for the EFR7670, and compressor wise flows slightly better at all the points one would be likely to use on an RB25/26 if they were looking for a fast road car.  Need more real world results to get a gauge of what spool is actually like, but I can't see any reason why despite seeming so small - a G25-660 is actually big enough to cover the needs of your typical punter building a quick road car

Edited by Lithium
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...
And because people like this kind of thing, a loose translation of what kind of area these flow figures may convert to in dyno numbers if everything else is up to the task.  
 
Bare in mind, these numbers are not what I'd say are "on kill", but where the compressor is starting to really earn it's keep - they should have more to give, but the things start working harder to get there and you start moving more into "how optimised is this setup" territory.  These numbers aren't a guarantee of what setups WILL hit using these turbos, it's what the turbos should be able to achieve working reasonably hard - but not too hard... and of course me making a bunch of assumptions lol.  
 
Turbo 20psi 25psi 30psi
GTX3071R 339 352.6 359.3
GTX3071R Gen2 345.78 352.6 359.3
EFR7670 359.34 379.7 386.5
S257SX-E 366.12 386.5 406.8
G25 660  372.9 406.8 400
GTX3076R 400.02 413.6 420.4
Gen2 GTX3076R 400.02 413.6 420.4
GTW3476R 406.8 433.9 454.3
EFR8374 440.7 461 467.8
GTX3582R 474.6 488.2 501.7
Gen2 GTX3582R 474.6 508.5 522.1
EFR9180 501.72 535.6 569.5
GTX3584RS 508.5 542.4 569.5
My real world result is quite close to your theoretical numbers, Lith.
The GTX3584RS with 542 at 25psi and 569 at 30psi vs mine with 550 at 29psi.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, K_arlstrom said:

I actually updated my list with a bunch more turbos (including the black series EFRs) months ago but this thread had very little interest so didn't think to put the updated version in here.

No photo description available.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, whatsisname said:

My real world result is quite close to your theoretical numbers, Lith.
The GTX3584RS with 542 at 25psi and 569 at 30psi vs mine with 550 at 29psi.

They were very much thumb sucks so that's nice :) What did yours make at lower boost levels?  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Lithium said:

I actually updated my list with a bunch more turbos (including the black series EFRs) months ago but this thread had very little interest so didn't think to put the updated version in here.

Thats what we get for just reading and not typing anything :whistling: 8374 might still be the better "scary fast street RB"-turbo

Edited by K_arlstrom
Link to comment
Share on other sites

They were very much thumb sucks so that's nice [emoji4] What did yours make at lower boost levels?  

Well they were quality thumb sucks [emoji4][emoji106]

 

It made 533kW at 26-25psi. Not sure what it makes at 20psi. I remember it making 421rwkw at 19psi during early tuning a year or so back (posted info in the RB30 results thread) but it was far from optimal and it was prior to properly setting up the boost control.

 

Shaun's Dynotech DD dyno is a bit stingy too, having ran both my 33 (345rwkw at the time) and Stage 2+ Golf Pirelli GTI (193fwkw) on Shaun's and then a Mainline roller dyno across town, where they both picked up 21rwkw (366rwkw) and 19fwkw (212fwkw) respectively.

 

I think another 1psi and a slightly more optimistic roller dyno would put my 33 right in line with your theoretical 569 figure.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 minutes ago, whatsisname said:

Well they were quality thumb sucks emoji4.pngemoji106.png

 

It made 533kW at 26-25psi. Not sure what it makes at 20psi. I remember it making 421rwkw at 19psi during early tuning a year or so back (posted info in the RB30 results thread) but it was far from optimal and it was prior to properly setting up the boost control.

 

Shaun's Dynotech DD dyno is a bit stingy too, having ran both my 33 (345rwkw at the time) and Stage 2+ Golf Pirelli GTI (193fwkw) on Shaun's and then a Mainline roller dyno across town, where they both picked up 21rwkw (366rwkw) and 19fwkw (212fwkw) respectively.

 

I think another 1psi and a slightly more optimistic roller dyno would put my 33 right in line with your theoretical 569 figure.

 

What tyres are on the back? it does sound noisy (implies they are sticky tyres)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • 8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
×
×
  • Create New...