Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey people.

I'm just wondering if anyone has any idea whatsoever what the issue may be with my V36.

It recently started sputtering around 3200RPM as you can see in the video (Please ignore my dodgy display), nothing has been changed recently and I have tried resetting the ECU/throttle position/idle air/etc.

I've checked for exhaust leaks and can't seem to see anything, the ecu is throwing a throttle position sensor code however advice from the interwebs mentioned to just reset the throttle position and nothing more.  Happens in Auto and tiptronic regardless of gear, the only time it doesn't occur is when my foot is to the floor however that isn't feasible :P.

Cheers in advance!

Video of sputtering

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Dead/dying coil(s).  Dirty AFM.  Dying fuel pump.  These are the usual suspects.

Cheers for that, cleaned up the AFM however that didn't resolve it.

I'll try have a look at the coils/fuelpump soon however I would've thought this would happen all over the rev range if it was them?

Decided to tighten all the bolts up and clean the throttle bodies then reset the tps/etc.

 

Codes afterwards are:

2133

0228

0133

Seems to be something to do with either the TPS or Accelerator pedal however I cleared the codes then went for a driv3 and intermittently the CEL would flash once for a second or half a second then go off randomly, car wss driving fine during this time.

Any ideas?

Its the weirdest case now because there are zero codes showing, and no CEL comes on anymore however still something weird at that 3200 range.

Took apart the accelerator pedal but all looks pretty fine there aside from someone having opened it in the past and put an extra spring in with a piece of foam.  MAF and Coils diagnose fine ?

New weird issue...  Slip/ VDC off / 4WAS light recently came on after I started driving today....interwebs says brake fluid but that definitely can't be the case.

In saying that I did recently pull the calipers off and paint them, I'm wondering if a sensor in the hub got damaged from impact wrench...?

4 hours ago, VirtualWolf said:

New weird issue...  Slip/ VDC off / 4WAS light recently came on after I started driving today....interwebs says brake fluid but that definitely can't be the case.

In saying that I did recently pull the calipers off and paint them, I'm wondering if a sensor in the hub got damaged from impact wrench...?

Have you recently installed a new BOV or POD Filter? If so, try going back to stock and then seeing if this has stopped it. Might be a malfunctioning product or your car needs to be retuned after adding new parts. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As an ex-skyline owner Going off how these things are now "modern classics", I would keep the twins and just "refresh" bits that are required for reliable power and have a car you can take out for a cruise whenever you get the itch As a idiot who cannot leave things alone Going deep into the "rabbit hole" is a easy thing to do, as previously mentioned, once you start it becomes a slippery slope, wirh lots of supporting mods, and possibly rebuilds, and unless you have a bottomless pit of funds, the car can spend most of its life sitting in the garage,  broken, waiting for parts, or building more funds For a classic like a R32 GTR Basically, a reliable OEM+ refresh, that isn't a broken garage queen, is alot better than a car that you build, then break, then fix, then break again And it isn't just the engine you need to worry about, these beasties are getting on in age, and all parts are getting, and have got, expensive, the days of picking up cheap replacement engines and other driveline parts are well and truly over The funds not spent on going a single with quality parts, and with all the other other bits required to make it happen, could be spent on refreshing alot of other parts A wise man once said "If you cannot afford 2 GTR's, you cannot afford 1", I also believe he said this about 20 years ago when you could pick up a clean R32 GTR up for around $20k My advice for a R32 GTR (the one and only true Godzilla in my mind) is to think holistically about the whole car, the body, the power train, the suspension, the brakes, and the driveline SAU is a wealth of knowledge with decades of Skyline experience,  from stock, to OEM+, to modified to varying degrees, to full on or weekend or dedicated racecars, as well as full on money pits that rarely leave their garage Treat the old girl nice and give her what she deserves, you are a lucky man to own such a classic car  
    • For that price you could buy the hypergear turbo (big fan as I run one) and the Haltech ECU..
    • +1 for the Elite 2500. Get some new knock sensors while you are at it (pretty cheap), look up the TAARKS Nissan knock sensor kit. You may also want to get new coils (R35gtr) while your at it (assuming your on stock ones), as they are a liability. Mine started right up and idled fine on the base map. Also go MAP over MAF, as said above, Haltech make this super simple right out the box. Another fanboy of DBW here, Outsider Garage from your neck of the woods make some nice conversion gear for the R33 (that’s where I got some of my gear from).
    • Nvm ignore this I read it wrong
×
×
  • Create New...