Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Last night I started having a problem with my car, a 1992 R32 GTR. The car has HKS GT2530s and standard camshafts and comes on to hard boost around 4000rpm.

When the car is coming onto hard boost at 4000rpm the car just "dies" and looses all power and the power fc warning light in the dash comes on and stays on solid. I know if it flashes in 3 increments at 0.5 second intervals it means detonation, and if the intervals are longer its the injectors maxing out, but this is just staying on solid and the injectors are nowhere near maximum (Sard 700cc) and the knock level is 1. The car is also still getting fuel as it comes flooding out the back of the exhaust (occasionally in a pretty orange/white burnt form), but I just cant figure it out. Spark plugs seem ok and are gapped at 0.8mm. It also has Z32 AFM's which were cleaned about 2 months ago. The car is running 1.2kg/cm2 boost.

When the car dies it sort of just splutters but doesnt sound like its misfiring.

Any ideas on what the problem could be?

Thanks.

Yeah the rev limiter is set to 8250rpm (factory rev limit). I forgot to mention this setup has been working faultlessly for the past few months, nothing was changed on the PowerFC, it just all of a sudden started doing this.

Thanks for your suggestion though, appreciated :)

Could be Ill add that to my list of things to check, thanks. Any other ideas?

When it "dies" it doesnt stall it just stops revving, tested it this morning and this time it sounded like its hit a rev limiter sort of thing. My main concern is that the light hooked up to the power fc to blink if theres a problem is coming on and staying on until a few seconds after i back off.

First test, put the Commander into Monitor mode and watch the display closely at 4,000rpm. It may pay to have the passenger do it or point the video camera at it then play it back for analysis later.

Second test, fuel filter and/or fuel pump, check the fuel pressure at the rail.

My best guesses :(

  • 4 weeks later...
Just as an update, the CAS was loose, tightened that up and the car hasnt played up since. It has also fixed the hunting for idle problem I was having too.

sorry to bring up a old thread and ask a dumb question, but what is the "CAS"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry no - The sandtrap adventure ended the day, happened at the end of the last session. At that time I wasn't hearing any weird noises nor were the brakes shuddering anymore. It was only when watching the videos that I remembered I had these sounds early on!
    • Did the noise appear after your sand trap adventure? Could be something got dislodged and is playing rub rub. Even a rock wedged somewhere.
    • Is there a shroud around the tailshaft spline into the back of the box? They can rub and make a horrible noise if they are not on straight/damaged. The heat might have caused it to grow too much in one direction and rub.
    • Strangely I noticed it either disappear later in the day, or not be present. I definitely noticed when I was crawling around that open wheel thingy entering the pits (that part was audible in car). Driving home and commuting around town for example, I didn't hear it. It's plausible that it was a brake disc or something still slightly in contact. The brakes absolutely felt BAD for the first couple of sessions, huge amounts of shudder and grinding as they got up to temp - And then I actually just forgot about it as the day went on/didn't notice it. The videos were from the morning when this was more present than the afternoon/drive home when it wasn't. I've asked around and got a variety of responses including handbrake shoe contacting hub, CV joints, CB tailshaft bearing as above, and clutch input bearing. I didn't test if it disappeared when clutch was in. I haven't noticed it in any of the other videos nor did I notice it when driving to that extent. More or less hoping the microphone at the rear license plate giving some kind of clue of 'something' but it looks like "spin stuff and see if you can notice it" is the way forward here. I could be smart and use the gopro mic and re-mount it to that location to see if the sound is still present at low speed actually. Sounds like a decent test whenver I have the CBF'ness to drive the car again. Given it's almost 40C for the day of the track day and the next 3 days after, the CBF is high. All I've done since getting home is unpack the car, remove the remnants of the lip and undertray and left it there. I was surprised how well the PMU Club Racers actually worked. The brake performance on the track was absolutely fantastic, best I've ever personally used, no fade whatsoever and the bitiness was almost too good, I was scrubbing more speed off than I needed to, but I also ended up infield when I started trying to scrape off ... less speed.... so...
    • Not really, no. Anything you would do is easily reversible.
×
×
  • Create New...