Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I've been chasing problems for a while now, but this one has me at a dead end.
Either way, I've currently got my car running on wastegate pressure (vacuum line from turbo outlet to wastegate actuator, bottom pipe has been plugged up) so i'm running .5bar steady, but when it gets to around 4500-5000, the boost spikes suddenly to to 1 bar.

Currently running:

Stock turbo.
Stock wastegate actuator.
Stock Intercooler.
Stock Bov/recirc valve
Brand new 3" exhaust (but was doing the same thing on the original stock exhaust, just at .75bar instead of 1 bar, pretty much running on R&R)
All vacuum lines pre-throttle body and recirc/BOV have been replaced.
(essentially a stock car minus the exhaust)

I've checked for boost and exhaust leaks, which is another dead-end
Anyone have any ideas on what to try next? 

 

Edited by lench

thanks, i'll give that a go tonight!

I've also pumped some compressed air into the actuator, it starts to move at 5psi, fully open by 14psi (tested it to 20) seemed to move ok, but i'll check the flapper as well

is your CAS fully retarded?

I've had cars with aftermarket turbos stock actuators shoot up to 1.4bar 1.5bar of boost when timing is super retarded (CAS off by 10~15 degrees). Happened last week actually, was doing some basic street tuning before the dyno next week and the car kept shooting above targetted boost.

Checked the CAS again and it was off by about 15 degrees lol.

not heaps experienced with this, but i've had a mech put the timing light on it and told me it was fine
ran ECUtalk with the consult cable and it seems that the timing is between 11 and 15 BTDC on idle

16 minutes ago, lench said:

not heaps experienced with this, but i've had a mech put the timing light on it and told me it was fine
ran ECUtalk with the consult cable and it seems that the timing is between 11 and 15 BTDC on idle

ECU might think it's whatever you saw on the ECUtalk, but is it synchronised with the motor?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...