Jump to content
SAU Community

Help! R34 gtt manual converted running rough

TaylorS

By TaylorS,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

TaylorS Contributor

TaylorS

Posted
Posted

Hey everyone. I just got a manual conversion done on my 1998 r34 gtt and now it is running funny. It revs very slow and goes slower then my na r34 now. It is still running the auto ecu. Im thinking that might be the problem? Or maybe the coils? Please anyone that has had this kind of problem let me know.

Ps. Sorry if this is in the wrong part of the forums 

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Auto ECU will not be the problem.  The only difference between auto and manual ECUs (apart from slight differences in mapping) are that the auto ECU also contains the TCU.  Oh, and the idle ignition timing is 20° in autos, not 15° like in manuals.

There could be the usual million explanations.  From coils, to dirty AFM or faulty wiring.  Perhaps you need to do a diagnostic on the ECU and looks for codes.

  • Thanks 1
TaylorS Contributor

TaylorS

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Auto ECU will not be the problem.  The only difference between auto and manual ECUs (apart from slight differences in mapping) are that the auto ECU also contains the TCU.  Oh, and the idle ignition timing is 20° in autos, not 15° like in manuals.

There could be the usual million explanations.  From coils, to dirty AFM or faulty wiring.  Perhaps you need to do a diagnostic on the ECU and looks for codes.

Ok thanks mate i will give the diagnostic tool ago and see what it finds when i get home. The car seemed to run fine before it was converted. If the car was running fine before could it still be the coils? 

Also the car has no aftermarket mods except a hks catback

Edited by TaylorS
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

The logical source of problems would be wiring that was f**ked up during the conversion.  The driver's side engine bay loom that services the plugs on the transmission is an example of a place that you need to make changes.

Coils much less likely to die except by pure coincidence.  AFM wiring, oxy sensor, knock sensors are all more likely to be abused during work in the engine bay.

  • Thanks 1
TaylorS Contributor

TaylorS

Posted
  • Author
Posted
10 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

The logical source of problems would be wiring that was f**ked up during the conversion.  The driver's side engine bay loom that services the plugs on the transmission is an example of a place that you need to make changes.

Coils much less likely to die except by pure coincidence.  AFM wiring, oxy sensor, knock sensors are all more likely to be abused during work in the engine bay.

Ok thanks for the tip mate. It wasn't me who did the conversion, i got it done from a shop so i really hope its not the wiring because i wouldn't know what to do then because the shop isnt sure why its like that either.

I will charge the coils anyway and will put some spitfires in. 

I should also add that at random points in the higher rpm it seems to kick in and then drops back out again.

Sorry for all the questions and stuff

Robocop2310 Experienced

Robocop2310

Posted
Posted
3 minutes ago, TaylorS said:

Thanks for the tips mate, i will check that out too 

All good mate.

Also as some have suggested plug in a cable and run some diagnostics if possible.

Could also be the exhaust too check piping.

  • Thanks 1
Robocop2310 Experienced

Robocop2310

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, TaylorS said:

Ok definitely will try that tomorrow. Do you think it could be a boost leak causing all this?

Yes definitely a possibility but jack the car up and check exhaust piping ang turbo gasket first followed by hoses and blow off valve leakage.

  • Thanks 1
DatsunBanana Enthusiast

DatsunBanana

Posted
Posted

Couple of times I've had the circlip on the turbo actuator arm fall off and the actuator disconnect. First time it was on a CA18DET and ran absolutely gutless. It's also happened on my RB25DE (with turbo conversion) but wasn't as bad cos the compression is higher so just felt like it was running non-turbo again.

  • Thanks 1
TaylorS Contributor

TaylorS

Posted
  • Author
Posted
12 minutes ago, DatsunBanana said:

Couple of times I've had the circlip on the turbo actuator arm fall off and the actuator disconnect. First time it was on a CA18DET and ran absolutely gutless. It's also happened on my RB25DE (with turbo conversion) but wasn't as bad cos the compression is higher so just felt like it was running non-turbo again.

Thank you for that, i will check that out as well. It could be anything at thid point haha. It does run guttless so it could be that

TaylorS Contributor

TaylorS

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update: hey everyone i was playing around with the car and i think i have narrowed the problem down to a turbo issue. it seems like i am getting no boost. the boost gauge reads all the way up the top of the gauge at max and i can hear the turbo spalling  but it feels like im getting none of it?
does anyone know what could be wrong from that kind of an issue? is the bov broken?

thank you

  • 2 weeks later...
TaylorS Contributor

TaylorS

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hey everyone i have a few updates.
To begin with i totally forgot to mention that the A/T light has been since the conversion. is this normal? 
i also checked for error codes and it came up with error 34 which is knock sensors. does this have to do with the A/T light?
thank you in advance  

iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
Posted

knock sensors have nothing to do with the AT light.

If you arent making any boost but your turbo is still making all the woosh sounds them im going to say you have a massive air leak or there is a rag in your intercooler piping.

  • Thanks 1
TaylorS Contributor

TaylorS

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

knock sensors have nothing to do with the AT light.

If you arent making any boost but your turbo is still making all the woosh sounds them im going to say you have a massive air leak or there is a rag in your intercooler piping.

Ok thank you mate, i didnt think the knock sensors have anything to do with the AT light. 

Yes your right the turbo is still making all of its noises but it doesnt want to boost.  I will have to check out the intercooler next.

Also can the knock sensors casue the car to get no boost? Maybe trigger a safe mode or something?

Robocop2310 Experienced

Robocop2310

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, TaylorS said:

Ok thank you mate, i didnt think the knock sensors have anything to do with the AT light. 

Yes your right the turbo is still making all of its noises but it doesnt want to boost.  I will have to check out the intercooler next.

Also can the knock sensors casue the car to get no boost? Maybe trigger a safe mode or something?

Whilst you’re get it check your AFM and wiring/tubing to your air intake and intercooler.

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      I just got to work and skimmed through 61508 and 61511. I was surprised the CSA adopted both, but neither are enforced. To recap what I read, it states that in a perfect world, they should be segregated but they acknowledge that this is not industry standard and clearly mention that they allow mixing of safety and non-safety. 61511 also mentions software segregation like AB does in their safety PLC's.   Now if only I could go back to control, let alone safety over comms. In my current line of work, we're only allowed monitoring and basic control over comms. Everything critical must still be hard wired as much as possible. 
    • TurboTapin
      RB25DET Solid lifter conversion

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      I've unfortunately never been as they're on the complete other side of the continent and another country that isn't currently letting us in as easily as they use to. I even heard their stop signs over there actually say "Stop" instead of "Arret". If I decided to trek the 48h drive, I wouldn't know when or where to stop haha. Whenever I order parts from UP Garage, I order from Japan as it's cheaper. Same with GKTech... oddly enough, it's cheaper shipped from Australia then it is the US.  UP Garage Japan operates their US leg though, unlike Tomei. If Tomei JPN had the power to close down Tomei USA, I'm sure it would be done in a day. They're two completely separate entities. Tomei JPN messed up somewhere originally agreeing to its creation and got sacked big time. 
    • KKaplumbaa
      SR20 to cefiro

      By KKaplumbaa · Posted

      I asked someone about this and he told me about the Audi 1.8T engine. But I think it would be difficult to swap
    • MBS206
      The Cool Tools Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • KKaplumbaa
      SR20 to cefiro

      By KKaplumbaa · Posted

      SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
×
×
  • Create New...