Jump to content
SAU Community

Help! R34 gtt manual converted running rough

TaylorS

By TaylorS,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

TaylorS Contributor

TaylorS

Posted
Posted

Hey everyone. I just got a manual conversion done on my 1998 r34 gtt and now it is running funny. It revs very slow and goes slower then my na r34 now. It is still running the auto ecu. Im thinking that might be the problem? Or maybe the coils? Please anyone that has had this kind of problem let me know.

Ps. Sorry if this is in the wrong part of the forums 

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Auto ECU will not be the problem.  The only difference between auto and manual ECUs (apart from slight differences in mapping) are that the auto ECU also contains the TCU.  Oh, and the idle ignition timing is 20° in autos, not 15° like in manuals.

There could be the usual million explanations.  From coils, to dirty AFM or faulty wiring.  Perhaps you need to do a diagnostic on the ECU and looks for codes.

  • Thanks 1
TaylorS Contributor

TaylorS

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Auto ECU will not be the problem.  The only difference between auto and manual ECUs (apart from slight differences in mapping) are that the auto ECU also contains the TCU.  Oh, and the idle ignition timing is 20° in autos, not 15° like in manuals.

There could be the usual million explanations.  From coils, to dirty AFM or faulty wiring.  Perhaps you need to do a diagnostic on the ECU and looks for codes.

Ok thanks mate i will give the diagnostic tool ago and see what it finds when i get home. The car seemed to run fine before it was converted. If the car was running fine before could it still be the coils? 

Also the car has no aftermarket mods except a hks catback

Edited by TaylorS
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

The logical source of problems would be wiring that was f**ked up during the conversion.  The driver's side engine bay loom that services the plugs on the transmission is an example of a place that you need to make changes.

Coils much less likely to die except by pure coincidence.  AFM wiring, oxy sensor, knock sensors are all more likely to be abused during work in the engine bay.

  • Thanks 1
TaylorS Contributor

TaylorS

Posted
  • Author
Posted
10 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

The logical source of problems would be wiring that was f**ked up during the conversion.  The driver's side engine bay loom that services the plugs on the transmission is an example of a place that you need to make changes.

Coils much less likely to die except by pure coincidence.  AFM wiring, oxy sensor, knock sensors are all more likely to be abused during work in the engine bay.

Ok thanks for the tip mate. It wasn't me who did the conversion, i got it done from a shop so i really hope its not the wiring because i wouldn't know what to do then because the shop isnt sure why its like that either.

I will charge the coils anyway and will put some spitfires in. 

I should also add that at random points in the higher rpm it seems to kick in and then drops back out again.

Sorry for all the questions and stuff

Robocop2310 Experienced

Robocop2310

Posted
Posted
3 minutes ago, TaylorS said:

Thanks for the tips mate, i will check that out too 

All good mate.

Also as some have suggested plug in a cable and run some diagnostics if possible.

Could also be the exhaust too check piping.

  • Thanks 1
Robocop2310 Experienced

Robocop2310

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, TaylorS said:

Ok definitely will try that tomorrow. Do you think it could be a boost leak causing all this?

Yes definitely a possibility but jack the car up and check exhaust piping ang turbo gasket first followed by hoses and blow off valve leakage.

  • Thanks 1
DatsunBanana Enthusiast

DatsunBanana

Posted
Posted

Couple of times I've had the circlip on the turbo actuator arm fall off and the actuator disconnect. First time it was on a CA18DET and ran absolutely gutless. It's also happened on my RB25DE (with turbo conversion) but wasn't as bad cos the compression is higher so just felt like it was running non-turbo again.

  • Thanks 1
TaylorS Contributor

TaylorS

Posted
  • Author
Posted
12 minutes ago, DatsunBanana said:

Couple of times I've had the circlip on the turbo actuator arm fall off and the actuator disconnect. First time it was on a CA18DET and ran absolutely gutless. It's also happened on my RB25DE (with turbo conversion) but wasn't as bad cos the compression is higher so just felt like it was running non-turbo again.

Thank you for that, i will check that out as well. It could be anything at thid point haha. It does run guttless so it could be that

TaylorS Contributor

TaylorS

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update: hey everyone i was playing around with the car and i think i have narrowed the problem down to a turbo issue. it seems like i am getting no boost. the boost gauge reads all the way up the top of the gauge at max and i can hear the turbo spalling  but it feels like im getting none of it?
does anyone know what could be wrong from that kind of an issue? is the bov broken?

thank you

  • 2 weeks later...
TaylorS Contributor

TaylorS

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hey everyone i have a few updates.
To begin with i totally forgot to mention that the A/T light has been since the conversion. is this normal? 
i also checked for error codes and it came up with error 34 which is knock sensors. does this have to do with the A/T light?
thank you in advance  

iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
Posted

knock sensors have nothing to do with the AT light.

If you arent making any boost but your turbo is still making all the woosh sounds them im going to say you have a massive air leak or there is a rag in your intercooler piping.

  • Thanks 1
TaylorS Contributor

TaylorS

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, iruvyouskyrine said:

knock sensors have nothing to do with the AT light.

If you arent making any boost but your turbo is still making all the woosh sounds them im going to say you have a massive air leak or there is a rag in your intercooler piping.

Ok thank you mate, i didnt think the knock sensors have anything to do with the AT light. 

Yes your right the turbo is still making all of its noises but it doesnt want to boost.  I will have to check out the intercooler next.

Also can the knock sensors casue the car to get no boost? Maybe trigger a safe mode or something?

Robocop2310 Experienced

Robocop2310

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, TaylorS said:

Ok thank you mate, i didnt think the knock sensors have anything to do with the AT light. 

Yes your right the turbo is still making all of its noises but it doesnt want to boost.  I will have to check out the intercooler next.

Also can the knock sensors casue the car to get no boost? Maybe trigger a safe mode or something?

Whilst you’re get it check your AFM and wiring/tubing to your air intake and intercooler.

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Zabuza
      Need AC Compressor for R32

      By Zabuza · Posted

      I’m thinking that’s the route I’ll  go, thanks for the input!
    • carnoobb
      V35 Overheat + Coolant Boil & Overflow + Engine not Starting

      By carnoobb · Posted

      Hey all, my 2004 Nissan Skyline 350GT overheated the other day with coolant boiling and leaking out of the coolant reservoir when I was parking. So today, I started it up again just to see if it was a thermostat/head gasket issue. After about 20 mins of running, temps were normal again, no coolant was leaking out and the upper reservoir hose was warm but my engine suddenly cut off. I checked the oil dipstick and cap when it was running and there was no white foamy residue and the exhaust did not have white smoke. I tried starting up the car again but it would only crank, similar to when I had a camshaft sensor issue just that now there’s no check engine light on the dash. Any ideas? Unfortunately I don’t have an OBD2 that can read the Nissan's programme.
    • Papichulo96
      Rb head oil drain dimensions

      By Papichulo96 · Posted

      Bump on this to not make another post, had a ‘head drain’ leak on me and have the engine out as we speak. Planning on just putting a new freeze plug back in , plug the tapped holes and just be done with that headache.    Now I still want to relieve pressure to allow oil to pass down the blocks returns easier. I’ve seen catch cans with multiple vents help folks with this issue on this forum.  I’m wanting to make my own. I have some pictures here of my setup if anyone can help how I should plumb and design the catch can I would deeply appreciate it !   rb25 Oil upgrades: 1.0mm restrictor n1 pump/billet gears extended crank collar  extended sump with trap doors/w welded fitting    
    • GTSBoy
      Need AC Compressor for R32

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The Frenchy's kit is the way to go forward. A modern compressor that weighs about 1/2 as much, is at least twice as efficient, and will do a good job on R134a. And of course the kit has everything else you need to connect it up and have it work properly.
    • Zabuza
      Need AC Compressor for R32

      By Zabuza · Posted

      Hey all , I am in the process of having the AC system in my r32 GTST converted from r12 to r134a and I’m being told my compressor has gone bad and I will need a new one. I was wondering if anybody has any suggestions for what is the best route to go aside from dropping $1500 on a new oem one? I did see that Frenchy’s performance garage offers a kit to mount a Toyota compressor, has anybody actually used this kit on their car? Or is there anywhere I could purchase just a clutch? Any help is appreciated.
×
×
  • Create New...