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4 hours ago, silviaz said:

Apexi, though I'm not comfortable with setting the idle, knowing me I'll f**k it up lol.

Ohh even easier.

 

Go dial up 700rpm on the hand controller. Rip off the TPS plug, wait till the idle drops and then adjust the IACV screw so it's just a tad below the target on the hand controller (say 650rpm), plug the TPS back in and idle will climb back to target.

Done.

2 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Ohh even easier.

 

Go dial up 700rpm on the hand controller. Rip off the TPS plug, wait till the idle drops and then adjust the IACV screw so it's just a tad below the target on the hand controller (say 650rpm), plug the TPS back in and idle will climb back to target.

Done.

That sounds pretty easy actually haha. But is there a reason why the tuner didn't do this? It's not like I've got a cammed 500kw rb25 neo. 

 

Also the tps plug is different on the rb25det neo and the r33 for example, I guess I'd plug out the loom which is this end? There's also 2 connectors. 

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Edited by silviaz
6 minutes ago, silviaz said:

Also the tps plug is different on the rb25det neo and the r33 for example, I guess I'd plug out the loom which is this end? There's also 2 connectors. 

Unplug both, it causes the idle closed loop condition to not be satisfied 

9 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

A high case of cbf.

Car runs, idles fine, not touching it.

I mean, what's the concern here? Higher fuel consumption?

FWIW my idle sits at around 800rpm or so as well. And yes, it runs fine, idles fine and there are no issues as far as I can tell. I don't quite see the problem.

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26 minutes ago, soviet_merlin said:

I mean, what's the concern here? Higher fuel consumption?

FWIW my idle sits at around 800rpm or so as well. And yes, it runs fine, idles fine and there are no issues as far as I can tell. I don't quite see the problem.

I know it's probably not going to cause any major engine issues. I just had a more generic concern that it's technically not running right (I guess this means the rpm is not sitting where it technically should be) Though the other thing is, it's that my steering wheel is shaking at 1,100 rpm at idle until it gets warm (seemed to happen after I tightened my alternator belt, will be testing the alternator soon).

Edited by silviaz
53 minutes ago, soviet_merlin said:

I mean, what's the concern here? Higher fuel consumption?

FWIW my idle sits at around 800rpm or so as well. And yes, it runs fine, idles fine and there are no issues as far as I can tell. I don't quite see the problem.

For me at least the reason why it bothers me is because it's indicative of a deeper problem. And that will nag at me forever. Especially because I have tailpipe emissions testing + evap leak testing every 2 years.

3 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Yeah, when I dialled my idle down, given how much time I spent idling at the lights in traffic on my daily commute, the effect on overall fuel consumption was absolutely noticeable.

Interesting. My tuner said after the tune that my fuel economy would be better but it is the exact same from what I could tell even though my car was running rich before lol. How much do km do you reckon you get on a full tank of petrol on your commute?

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