Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As the weather is warming up I've noticed that my 32gtst is not starting from cold as easily as it does or should compared to winter time, we just had a really cool morning and the car started first crank, when the engine is at operating temp restarting is fine, always first crank, it just has an issues starting first start of the day when ambient temps are over 25c

Any suggestions before I start playing around in nistune?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475135-tune-question/
Share on other sites

On 10/12/2018 at 9:21 PM, burn4005 said:

Probably need more crank prime at warmer areas

After looking at the tables I think you are correct, I've added a couple of percentage in the 20c and 30c blocks of the cold crank enrichment table., have to wait until the ambient tenps warm up to see if it made any difference.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475135-tune-question/#findComment-7887810
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
On 10/15/2018 at 10:45 AM, Missileman said:

After looking at the tables I think you are correct, I've added a couple of percentage in the 20c and 30c blocks of the cold crank enrichment table., have to wait until the ambient tenps warm up to see if it made any difference.

Update: my correction to cold crank enrichment has worked... starts like and idles like a champ once again.

So now I suppose I should start looking for any air leaks, but only when all the rubber is cold.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475135-tune-question/#findComment-7893068
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   anyone know where I can pick one of these up for a reasonable price? I just resprayed my rear trunk due to fuel stain and my new muse spat install.    added a photo for some content 馃ぃ馃憤   thanks 
    • Consider a 35 too...
    • He's right ~ there is no 'magic' with stuff like this ... it is more likely that in the process of looking for the short, the loom/wire 'incidentally' got moved in the process, thus removing the short ~ now, that maybe a wire (in a loom) rubbing against the edge of some grounded metal, that's worn through the insulation, causing the (now intermittent) short to ground. If one wire in a loom has been damaged in this fashion, it's reasonable to presume that other wires beside it may have also be damaged, and now exposed...you can bet the green crusty copper corrosion will start... ...that'd be a pisser, Murphy's Law steps right in as GTS observes...but worse, something like that is easier to find when shorted...ie; unplug bulb and fuse, and put multimeter in continuity mode so you get constant beep, and carefully poke about hoping to find if some movemet of the harness stop the beeping.... ...it's still all a bit Arnie tho' ..It'll be back... 馃槂
    • Yeah, but knowledge of one wire's insulation worn through to short on earth implies the possibility of other wires doing the same. I had my power steering die, because the wire that runs to the solenoid valve on the rack runs in the same loom as the power wire for the O2 sensor. And when the O2 sensor/wire did something stupid and burnt part of that loom to death, the only indication was the shit(ter) fuel economy and the heavy steering. It took deep excavation of the looms in the bay to find the problem. Not wear through in that case, but similar shit.
    • Ah, I thought he'd wired it to one of the spare ECU inputs! Too long ago since I read that post, ha ha. I've been arguing with radiators, harmonic balancers, alternators and rust since reading it.
  • Create New...