Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

So after towing my car on a car trailer it started to run really rough, it went to an alarm installer and got immobiliser, alarm, tracker installed but two days later it wouldn't even run.

It kicks over but engine just won't actually start.

The injectors are getting very low pulse and the crank angle sensor doesnt have a heap of spark when turn manually or via ignition, we've already had the alarm guys test it and they are adamant it isn't the immobilizer causing any issue.

At the same time the spark plugs are now fouled, and two relays in the boot connecting to the twin fuel pumps have blown as well.

Any ideas where to start looking?

The ECU is a black box and there is a eflex sensor and AEM AFR cut in place which reports but then when trying to crank says sensor offline.

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475177-r33-gtr-wont-run-low-injector-pulse/
Share on other sites

Hi mate, sounds frustrating.

i would check the following:

- Alternator 

- Coil packs / spark plugs 

- Hosing to air intake and engine 

- Turbo gasket 

- Fuses 

- Damaged or disconnected sensors which the ECU had picked up

Something may have been accidentally disconnected during the alarm/immobiliser install or it might have short circuited something.

Or it could have been just coincidental that something has gone by over time.

Good luck.

 

Edited by Robocop2310

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...