Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi gents,

I am hoping to drive to a tuner with parts installed like you can with an Apexi FC but seeing what ecu options there are that can do the same around the 1k cost.

Basically trying to save cost on labour by installing injectors, AFM prior and weed out any setup issues prior to going to a tuner.

Other reason is limited option in Canberra so may need to drive to NSW.

Other options I'm looking at is R32 nistune (as the firmware can now run vct without window switch) or Adaptronic as I already have purchased a hypergear turbo.

 

My mods are very basic, hypergear 21u 350hp high flow, usual breathing mods. Will probably make 230-250max.

Car is already tuned with stock turbo and safc 200rwkw and pretty good milage. 400-450ks a tank (half city half highway)

So I have 2 questions

1.Do nistune or Adaptronic have this capability via laptop so I can drive it gingerly to a tuner?

2. Will either of these be better for daily driver ability ie, idle, partial throttle response and economy.

Autotech in Canberra and some of the other tuners I have spoken to do all three options.

Cheers

 

 

Adaptronic will suit your requirements.

If budget permits a Link or a Haltech is a step up.

Nistune you need a license to be able to make changes, however generally customers I've tuned you can get the car in an "ok" state when you upgrade the AFM and also the injectors at the same time. Might idle about 11~12 AFR and drive a bit shit but it's enough to get to the dyno.

13 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Adaptronic will suit your requirements.

If budget permits a Link or a Haltech is a step up.

Nistune you need a license to be able to make changes, however generally customers I've tuned you can get the car in an "ok" state when you upgrade the AFM and also the injectors at the same time. Might idle about 11~12 AFR and drive a bit shit but it's enough to get to the dyno.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

I would like a link or haltech but I don't really have the budget  for it.

I have a friend with nistune license software so can at least set that up. 

I guess given my pretty basic setup, am i going to gain benefit in daily drivability and economy with either of these two over a power fc

Of course, Nistune is light years ahead of a PowerFC.

If you decide to get a Nistune, I suggest finding a compatible RB20DET ECU and get the board installed. Don't use a Z32 ECU, I've had so many problems with them.

Nistune has full flex, launch control. boost control, basic engine protection - things a PowerFC does not have.

 

A Power FC is no different from any other ECU in needing to be tuned for the turbo injectors etc that you have fitted. It has no magic properties that allows it to tune itself. Nistune would be the cheapest but I believe Hypergear is selling Adaptronics so you may be able to get one, with a good enough tune to drive to a tuner,  supplied with it.

I drove my Link over 30km to my tuner when I built my engine without really touching anything (bar setting up all the sensors etc)

Was horribly rich, but made it there fine just cruising along.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I much prefer that to an actual oil pressure issue, never would of thought it would of been a volt drop issue but SAU brains win again. Guess ill be turning down the oil pressure limit for the track and hunting some grounds. Ill hopefully update this thread with some high oil pressure and solid ecu voltage logs. 
    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
×
×
  • Create New...