Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, as some of you know the 'old' style nismo carbon garnish doesnt age the greatest and looked quite cheap after a while. After seeing the new nismo logo, i knew i had to have a set. I've taken a couple of pics for comparisons...even though the differences are subtle, the new logo sits up a tad higher and seems to be of a much better quality. This is on an r33 gtst20181024_161236.jpg20181024_160727.jpg

Thanks for the interesting comparison mate.

Call me nuts, but I actually find the older CF pillar more tougher with the lighter less glossy finish and looks more tougher in my opinion. The logo itself is exactly the same except for the letter O. 

Cheers

  • Like 1
Thanks for the interesting comparison mate.
Call me nuts, but I actually find the older CF pillar more tougher with the lighter less glossy finish and looks more tougher in my opinion. The logo itself is exactly the same except for the letter O. 
Cheers
Your right with the older ones looking tougher. I do prefer how the older one is actually a thicker sticker. I felt ripped off when i saw how thin the new one was lol and hopefully the 'o' is less susceptible to fading compared to the older nismo logo, which was my main reason for replacing them. Now If only they re-released the 'nismo' gtr wing end caps with the new logo [emoji57]
4 minutes ago, Ty1 said:

Your right with the older ones looking tougher. I do prefer how the older one is actually a thicker sticker. I felt ripped off when i saw how thin the new one was lol and hopefully the 'o' is less susceptible to fading compared to the older nismo logo, which was my main reason for replacing them. Now If only they re-released the 'nismo' gtr wing end caps with the new logo emoji57.png

Yep totally ageeed mate...but, the new one looks  much newer and clean! I have the older garnish on my R33 GTR and the bottom ends are starting to break a little but seeing it’s an older car I don’t mind it looking a little brittle. ?

you can certainly get the Nismo and caps directly from Nissan or good online stores but it only shows on one side as Nismo mirrored obviously won’t look right and having it read from left to right on the left side is a bit funny.

Hi guys, ant chance somebody could tell me how the original garnish is attached to the B pillar. Someone has tried to use a master key to break in and busted one of mine off at the top. TIA 
I've never had to remove one but to me it looks like they sort of clip in as i was able to slightly move it up and down while applying the garnish

You need to unscrew a few bolts holding it against the side wall trim. There’s also a few plastic clips holding it in place. Removing the door/wall trim is done with unclipping some points with a flathead screwdriver but be gentle as it can break.

2 hours ago, Robocop2310 said:

You need to unscrew a few bolts holding it against the side wall trim. There’s also a few plastic clips holding it in place. Removing the door/wall trim is done with unclipping some points with a flathead screwdriver but be gentle as it can break.

Thanks tor the advise. 

Yep totally ageeed mate...but, the new one looks  much newer and clean! I have the older garnish on my R33 GTR and the bottom ends are starting to break a little but seeing it’s an older car I don’t mind it looking a little brittle. [emoji106]
you can certainly get the Nismo and caps directly from Nissan or good online stores but it only shows on one side as Nismo mirrored obviously won’t look right and having it read from left to right on the left side is a bit funny.
The actual nismo stick-on end caps through nissan?? Im talking about the caps with the word 'nismo' printed on them. I know you can still get the ones with gtr printed on them but i havent seen brand new nismo ones for years now [emoji22]
5 hours ago, Ty1 said:

The actual nismo stick-on end caps through nissan?? Im talking about the caps with the word 'nismo' printed on them. I know you can still get the ones with gtr printed on them but i havent seen brand new nismo ones for years now emoji22.png

Hey mate sorry I mistaken the GTR ones for the Nismo ones. 

You mean these ones?

https://www.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2Fz3aU8tL.jpg&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2Fgallery%2F4M5Yy&docid=yFPgnAWXw7Lv6M&tbnid=F3JSp1gCgtOeBM&vet=1&w=480&h=360&client=safari&ved=2ahUKEwiou7nBs6beAhVigEsFHfPVCqUQMygAegQIABAw

Edited by Robocop2310
  • Like 1
5 hours ago, Ty1 said:

All good man. Yep there the ones emoji5.pngemoji106.png

Hey mate, personally I don't think it you should have Nismo end caps unless you're going for the R33 Nismo 400R look with bodykit and similar wheels and the works. I have GTR end caps on and find it looks best but each to his own of course but agree hardly see them around unless it's been self fabricated.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
    • What HVAC actuator is under the steering wheel? Do you mean on the RHS of the centre console, immediately to the left of your shin? If so, then yes, it is probably that one, because that is the mode door actuator, and from what I know, it's still a pain in the arse to replace. I don't know about whole dash out, but you certainly have to rip into the centre console section. I don't know if it's covered in the workshop manual, as I haven't spent much time looking at those parts of it. (and by "the workshop manual, I mean the R32 GTR one, which is the most comprehensive one we have, and it should be similar enough between that and later cars to serve as a guide).
×
×
  • Create New...