Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Get rid of any connection involving that T piece!  The boost T goes in a single (cut, of course) hose between the boost source and the wastegate actuator.  That other T is leading off into the wilderness, and is causing you to have no idea where the boost signal is being lost.  Just pull the T connections apart and block everything other than your connections to the boost T.

1 minute ago, GTSBoy said:

Get rid of any connection involving that T piece!  The boost T goes in a single (cut, of course) hose between the boost source and the wastegate actuator.  That other T is leading off into the wilderness, and is causing you to have no idea where the boost signal is being lost.  Just pull the T connections apart and block everything other than your connections to the boost T.

Ok i will get rid if the t piece. Switch one do i have the other end of the boost control go to? The white circle or the black circle? And do i just block the other one off or just leave it with nothing? Sorry for the dumb questions 

26 minutes ago, TaylorS said:

Ok i will get rid if the t piece. Switch one do i have the other end of the boost control go to? The white circle or the black circle? And do i just block the other one off or just leave it with nothing? Sorry for the dumb questions 

See my recent setup diagram and follow that plus above and you’ll be right.

Just now, Robocop2310 said:

See my recent setup diagram and follow that plus above and you’ll be right.

Ok so i would just attach the vac line that is in white direct to the boost controlller and then just block off that other line or leave it open?

Thanks mate

Hey mate,

I think this may work. I'll summarise briefly:

- Turbosmart BC piece will have to ends connected; one goes to the Wastegate actuator port and the other to the Turbo's boost port (located along the throttle body). So if you have any other connections left, it ought to be blocked off completely as at the moment it's going back into your stock boost solenoid. Also check all clamps and ensure there is no leakage anywhere...check AFM too and air intake too.

- Once you correctly hook everything up. Turn the car on and led it idle for around 10 minutes for the ECU to recognise the changes - this may do nothing but I've always done this to give the car a chance to accept changes and it's never harmed anything so you may want to give it a shot nothing to lose then take it for a drive and see what happens?

If this doesn't work then there's something more sinister at work here so you.re better off taking it to a mechanic. 

Good luck mate.

Image result for r33 gtst turbosmart manual boost controller

 

  • Thanks 1

Thanks mate, will give this ago. Im probaby thinking it will have to go to a mechanic as well. I was hoping to avoid that because im kinda broke after the manual conversion. 

I have checked and cleaned afm before because thats what i tried first. Also changed coils and sparks as well.

Fingerscrossed this works.

19 minutes ago, TaylorS said:

Thanks mate, will give this ago. Im probaby thinking it will have to go to a mechanic as well. I was hoping to avoid that because im kinda broke after the manual conversion. 

I have checked and cleaned afm before because thats what i tried first. Also changed coils and sparks as well.

Fingerscrossed this works.

Good luck mate. I understand playing around with cars is a bottomless pit.

If the problem is if this doesn’t fix it it may be something that’s damaged so you will have to take it to a shop to avoid further damage.

8 minutes ago, Robocop2310 said:

Good luck mate. I understand playing around with cars is a bottomless pit.

If the problem is if this doesn’t fix it it may be something that’s damaged so you will have to take it to a shop to avoid further damage.

7 hours ago, Robocop2310 said:

Hey mate,

I think this may work. I'll summarise briefly:

- Turbosmart BC piece will have to ends connected; one goes to the Wastegate actuator port and the other to the Turbo's boost port (located along the throttle body). So if you have any other connections left, it ought to be blocked off completely as at the moment it's going back into your stock boost solenoid. Also check all clamps and ensure there is no leakage anywhere...check AFM too and air intake too.

- Once you correctly hook everything up. Turn the car on and led it idle for around 10 minutes for the ECU to recognise the changes - this may do nothing but I've always done this to give the car a chance to accept changes and it's never harmed anything so you may want to give it a shot nothing to lose then take it for a drive and see what happens?

If this doesn't work then there's something more sinister at work here so you.re better off taking it to a mechanic. 

Good luck mate.

Image result for r33 gtst turbosmart manual boost controller

 

Thanks mate, i will show you want i have done before i test it. I hope the photos arent confusing.

The  2rd and 3rd are of the turbo tee. Waste gate to tee and i couldnt find anyother line down there so that has to be for the turbo that other line near the waste gate? Anyway thats connected to the turbo tee.

I blocked off the sononoid. 

I blocked off the tee piece that was going back from the turbo to the intercooler. 

 

Also that line that is coming from the throttle body is already connected to something else (first picture)

20181029_094140.jpg

20181029_094128.jpg

20181029_094112.jpg

20181029_094108.jpg

20181029_093000.jpg

Edited by TaylorS
1 minute ago, TaylorS said:

Thanks mate, i will show you want i have done before i test it. I hope the photos arent confusing.

The first 2 are of the turbo tee. Waste gate to tee and i couldnt find anyother line down there so that has to be for the turbo that other line near the waste gate? Anyway thats connected to the turbo tee.

I blocked off the sononoid. 

I blocked off the tee piece that was going back from the turbo to the intercooler. 

 

Also that line that is coming from the throttle body is already connected to something else (last picture)20181029_093000.thumb.jpg.044c3d994bf0f1794a8f2e696dc12927.jpg

20181029_094140.jpg

20181029_094128.jpg

20181029_094112.jpg

20181029_094108.jpg

Hey mate, I cannot make our exactly what’s what from your photos but the one end needs to go to the throttle body for boost pressure as mentioned above so I don’t understand why it’s not hooked up and where else it’s going. 

Follow it with your fingers and see where it goes?

  • Thanks 1
2 minutes ago, TaylorS said:

Ps. Irgone my edit the photo order kept charging so i changed where wach photo is.

1st two photos are turbo tee.

Last photo is throttle body

Please confirm exactly where the two tubes on the side of the MBC (manual boost controller) are connected to?

  • Thanks 1
1 minute ago, Robocop2310 said:

Please confirm exactly where the two tubes on the side of the MBC (manual boost controller) are connected to?

Hahah sorey mate, everytime i reload this page the order of photos keep changing. This is the photo of where the 2 lines are going to off the manual boost controller

20181029_094128.jpg

11 minutes ago, TaylorS said:

Hahah sorey mate, everytime i reload this page the order of photos keep changing. This is the photo of where the 2 lines are going to off the manual boost controller

20181029_094128.jpg

Make sure you blocked off everything else these two connectors look good.

Fire her you and let it idle for 10 minuites then take for a drive to test.

Good luck mate!

  • Thanks 1
Just now, Robocop2310 said:

Make sure you blocked off everything else these two connectors look good.

Fire her you and let it idle for 10 minuites then take for a drive to test.

Good luck mate!

Thanks mate, will give it ago. Should i adjust the manual boost controller or is the setting its on good? (Turned all the way anti clock wise) with one click clock wise)

Hey guys, still no luck :/ looks like i will just have to bite the bullet and take it to a shop hopefully this week.

I did however notice something. When i get to 3krpm ans the boost kicks in until it hits just under 4k rpm. When i hit the 4k rpm the car does a loud pop noise from the exhuast (this is just as thr boost cuts out) and  the check engine light comes on for about 2 to 3 seconds and then turns off again.

Thanks guys for all the replys 

The new photos are wrong.

Somehow you have hood the boost T up between the wastegate actuator (which is correct) and the vent line back into the turbo inlet (which is VERY wrong).

You now have absolutely NO boost control.

The loud pop at 4k is when your car is hitting boost cut.  The ECU is killing it.

The boost T's second side needs to be connected to the nipple on the turbo outlet.  That's either on the turbo outlet pipe (to the intercooler) or directly on the compressor housing (there are a couple of options depending on the car - Nissan did it both ways).

3 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

The new photos are wrong.

Somehow you have hood the boost T up between the wastegate actuator (which is correct) and the vent line back into the turbo inlet (which is VERY wrong).

You now have absolutely NO boost control.

The loud pop at 4k is when your car is hitting boost cut.  The ECU is killing it.

The boost T's second side needs to be connected to the nipple on the turbo outlet.  That's either on the turbo outlet pipe (to the intercooler) or directly on the compressor housing (there are a couple of options depending on the car - Nissan did it both ways).

Thanks mate i will try that. I can see the one your talkong about that goes from the tirbo outlet pipe so i will connect the turbo boost tee to that on the turbo side nip.

Where does the turbo inlet vent line go to? 

Hey @GTSBoy and  @Robocop2310 thank you so much for your help. It turns out the vacuum lines were all wrong. I connected the turbo outlet pipe vac line to the boost tee and just blocked off the turbo inlet vent line off and the car seems to run perfect now. It still seems like the boost kicks in around 3k but it doesnt cut out anymore and feels much smoother.

17 minutes ago, TaylorS said:

Hey @GTSBoy and  @Robocop2310 thank you so much for your help. It turns out the vacuum lines were all wrong. I connected the turbo outlet pipe vac line to the boost tee and just blocked off the turbo inlet vent line off and the car seems to run perfect now. It still seems like the boost kicks in around 3k but it doesnt cut out anymore and feels much smoother.

GREAT WORK!!! Happy ending.

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LS is a good motor, but it hurts my soul when I see it in a RB. Guess it fixes the oiling issues lol.
    • I'm confused. Does this qualify as "Gregging" or are you somehow avoiding the Gregging?
    • More assembly going on, with all sorts of "bolt right on bro" scenarios going on here. Smartly, PTV clearance was checked. And I say smartly because it turns out that the intake was 0.009" from piston meeting valve. This is 0.23mm. This is very not okay. A fast meeting was facilitated between engine builder in Australia and engine builder in the USA which was actually incredibly helpful and constructive actually, various ideas thrown around to get around this issue including: 1) Retard the cam timing which would have brought the exhaust valve closer to meeting piston (it was 0.065") which was uncomfortably close to begin with, and change the cam profile making it 'laggier' 2) Much larger head gaskets which would reduce compression, but half the point of this was to increase compression. 3) New set of pistons ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) 4) All of the above 5) Get ghetto The concept is you get sticky sandpaper and stick it back to a valve, slightly larger than the valve you/I'm using, like say from a LS3/rectangle port head. You now have a very super advanced flycutting tool to modify your pistons in your block. Then you install it in your head, and attach the other end of the head to a drill. Then you just replicate your valve smashing into a piston with your spinning drill.   This is the result. Repeat many times. It is strongly recommended you have some kind of fixed stop when doing this for extremely obvious reasons because if you press too hard then you're well into apocalyptic repercussion land. The minimum clearance on the intake valve is now 0.075" this is still in the "Too close to be really comfortable" and into "It should be fine" land. Supposedly in the real world the clearances will be slightly bigger. Guess this is what happens when people push envelopes for N/A engines instead of adding boost! Time to move onto the new, upgraded, higher ratio roller rockers from Yellaterra, all tapped and threaded with a stronger bolt for better stability. Very nice. Lets see how they fit. For f**ks sake. Time to bring the grinder out for these aftermarket, machined and CNC'd heads. Looks like the new, beefier rocker from YellaTerra has gone from Bolt on part to "Bolt on part". Well, lets see how this bolt on crank scraper and windage tray goes then, shall we? There actually is more clearance than they specify for this thing, but seeing it all move as you check it is terrifying when you see it all so very very very very nearly hit things. But after all, this is what the item is designed to do after all and actually did bolt on perfectly and have enough clearance to everything and some very clear and direct instructions. So +1 to Improved Racing I suppose. As above with the windage tray on. Photo of breaker bar wonkiness for added lols. Next up: Oil pump/front cover/water pump/sump and then it's time to actually install the heads, pushrods, head bolts, valve cover gaskets and such is all there and ready to go. (except the oil pump bolts which were previously longer for more clearance with the previously perfectly installed double row timing chain). There's definitely a sense that someone other than us has been here before and done everything perfectly, or at least considered it and came up with working solutions. Perhaps the previous cam was 6deg advanced to avoid PTV issues with the milled stock heads? In any case when I attempt to sell this stuff the buyers are going to be very directly informed.
    • my catch can is pretty easy to empty but it overflows due to the blowby/crank case pressure etc. max I have drained is ~600ml even with a ~2.3L capacity. So it is not just about having to drain it out its the mess it makes down the firewall and under the car and rear passenger tyre from the overflow oil being blasted by screamer + air in general. Ending up on the ground cleaning the oil up and having oil on your arms when everyone else can chill and watch the other sessions gets old fast
    • Yeah - the secret learned a long time ago is that the RB likes to belch oil out the covers, and/or starve the pump because it drowns the head in oil, because the upflow of crankcase gases from piston blowby comes up through the oil drain holes in the block and prevents the oil from flowing back down. The external vents from sump are about creating an alternative path/much more XS area for gas flow to decrease the gas velocity up through the oil drains and allow the oil to get back down. So, it's not about pressure at all. It is about flows - gas up and oil down - or when it's not working, gas up and oil not going where it is supposed to after it arrives at the top, except out through the cam cover vents. And regardless of whether the catch can is vented to air or vented to the turbo inlet, it must still be vented because a sealed system would blow out the crank seals, or something equally bad.
×
×
  • Create New...