Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

8 hours ago, kye32gtst said:

Hey guys, I'm looking for a deep sounding exhaust for my Gtst 32, just want to know what will drone a little bit, give the rb20 a deep note to it, and not have a raspy obnoxious exhaust. Thanks

Hey mate, you ought to be upgrading your exhaust system to increase performance not only to get better sound as you ought to nvest your cash on a good exhaust not any Autobarn/eBay one that might sound good.

Anyway, if you are willing to spend some cash for both performance and a better exhaust note then I recommend you look at brands such as Apexi, HKS, Fujitsubo and Tomei.

I have a 3” Apexi turbo-back exhaust and it sounds really nice but not too loud.

You need a budget, decide between an over the counter brand or custom and what dump pipes set up / catback or full system etc?

The JASMA mufflers will obviously have restrictors, but OP is after sound upgrade, so 2nd hand JASMA cat-backs shouldn't be out of the picture. Don't get X-Force though. Get two fat mufflers and get an exhaust shop to install it as GTSBoy said.

52 minutes ago, niZmO_Man said:

The JASMA mufflers will obviously have restrictors, but OP is after sound upgrade, so 2nd hand JASMA cat-backs shouldn't be out of the picture. Don't get X-Force though. Get two fat mufflers and get an exhaust shop to install it as GTSBoy said.

This is going to be phully sik!

4 hours ago, Robocop2310 said:

Hey mate, you ought to be upgrading your exhaust system to increase performance not only to get better sound as you ought to nvest your cash on a good exhaust not any Autobarn/eBay one that might sound good.

Anyway, if you are willing to spend some cash for both performance and a better exhaust note then I recommend you look at brands such as Apexi, HKS, Fujitsubo and Tomei.

I have a 3” Apexi turbo-back exhaust and it sounds really nice but not too loud.

You need a budget, decide between an over the counter brand or custom and what dump pipes set up / catback or full system etc?

I've been looking at a HKS Silent hi power, and a Greddy Power Extreme, but I can't find a decent sound clip of the Greddy. Standard dump pipe, Blitz Front pipe, and not sure on the test pipe. I've been looking on Nengun

 

Thanks for the replies guys, I appreciate it as I'm new to the scene

3 hours ago, kye32gtst said:

I've been looking at a HKS Silent hi power, and a Greddy Power Extreme, but I can't find a decent sound clip of the Greddy. Standard dump pipe, Blitz Front pipe, and not sure on the test pipe. I've been looking on Nengun

 

Thanks for the replies guys, I appreciate it as I'm new to the scene

Hi mate,

Here's the HKS Silien Hi-Power one you mentioned: 

If you want a more tougher droney sounding one...I highly suggest the Tomei Extreme TI exhaust:

 

 

1 hour ago, Robocop2310 said:

Hi mate,

Here's the HKS Silien Hi-Power one you mentioned: 

If you want a more tougher droney sounding one...I highly suggest the Tomei Extreme TI exhaust:

 

I'm out in the Central NSW and the roads aren't the best and was advised by a mechanic, family friend, not to go with the Titanium because of the roads. Wondering if the Tomei Titanium would hold up, as apposed to a Stainless Steel HKS and Greddy options, also want to keep it stealthy to avoid unwanted attention, Cop lives at the end of my street :/

16 minutes ago, kye32gtst said:

 

I'm out in the Central NSW and the roads aren't the best and was advised by a mechanic, family friend, not to go with the Titanium because of the roads. Wondering if the Tomei Titanium would hold up, as apposed to a Stainless Steel HKS and Greddy options, also want to keep it stealthy to avoid unwanted attention, Cop lives at the end of my street :/

Unless you live in Antarctica, a titanium exhaust is not going to wear. Sound wise if you’re worried abito sound then why upgrade to a louder drone sounding exhaust in the first place?

5 minutes ago, Robocop2310 said:

Unless you live in Antarctica, a titanium exhaust is not going to wear. Sound wise if you’re worried abito sound then why upgrade to a louder drone sounding exhaust in the first place?

Just don't want it to be obnoxiously loud, but still not stock

Custom exhaust from good local exhaust shop, reasonable size mid muffler and varex remote control muffler at back.

Leave home quietly without waking up the neighborhood or old mate copper and then release the hounds when all clear. My 2c.

I prefer mild steel over stainless, less raspy and deeper sound imo. Titanium = great=$

Titanium will make it raspy n obnoxiously loud.
Jap brand exhausts are shit. They hang low. Test pipes are illegal
As above go to a local exhaust shop and tell them what u want. They can make it fit snug up against the body and they won’t have any step downs in them

6 hours ago, UWISSH! said:

Titanium will make it raspy n obnoxiously loud.
Jap brand exhausts are shit. They hang low. Test pipes are illegal
As above go to a local exhaust shop and tell them what u want. They can make it fit snug up against the body and they won’t have any step downs in them

I've been told that cars before 1990 are not required to have a catalytic converter, so a test pipe would be perfectly legal. According to this mechanic

27 minutes ago, kye32gtst said:

I've been told that cars before 1990 are not required to have a catalytic converter, so a test pipe would be perfectly legal. According to this mechanic

I've heard a few people say this too but never followed it up...I know mine doesn't and never been caught up for it yet.

13 minutes ago, Robocop2310 said:

I've heard a few people say this too but never followed it up...I know mine doesn't and never been caught up for it yet.

It doesn't exactly help when I've bought the car with no exhaust at all. Not even a manifold. I'll blue slip the thing with a Cat if I can, but after that... There will be a little less choking the old girl

1 hour ago, kye32gtst said:

It doesn't exactly help when I've bought the car with no exhaust at all. Not even a manifold. I'll blue slip the thing with a Cat if I can, but after that... There will be a little less choking the old girl

You can always get a temporary exhaust then take your time looking around for what you really want.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...