Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok guys I got an issue I’d like to hear your thoughts on. I have a r32 gts-25 non turbo that I swapped a rb20det into a few months back. Also added split dump, full 3” TBE, nistune, wideband, and other gauges. So when warm it has always had a breakup in boost at WOT. It was getting to around 11psi on my boost gauge. So I also had a 45v1 rb25 turbo that I had planned to throw on when I was diagnosing the break up, since I would already have everything apart. This past weekend I installed the turbo and used the actuator off the 20. Replaced coil packs/ gapped to 0.8/ changed afm and still had the breakup. So tonight I was out driving. I pulled over and disconnected vacuum port to BOV to see if there was any difference, and boom, the misfire/hesitation under WOT was gone. She ran and drove great, even though it had flutter. But the weird thing is I am only getting 7 psi constantly even though I changed the actuator off the 20 that I personally have had hitting 11psi for months. I’m hoping the couple beers I’ve had this evening might be having me miss something obvious...sorry for the novel. Thoughts please!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475432-need-help-on-r32-gtst/
Share on other sites

If you disconnect a bov it will leak when there's boost in the system. Pressure helps keep it shut.

Do you have a wideband? If leaking boost out of the bov made it run right it would be crazy lean otherwise.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, but no. You need to keep the mating surfaces bare (ie the flat faces where the caliper and upright pads touch the dogbone) and also the internal threads will remain bare (unless there are no internal threads - do they use nuts on all the bolts?). So you can slow down obvious external corrosion, but not all of it. Anodising would be required to provide decent protection to the alloy, but I'm not actually sure if you should anodise something that is all about the strength. Anodising does reduce strength significantly. Like, up to 50% on some alloys for high thickness coating.
    • Thanks   does painting on aluminium work or stop them from corroding?
    • 'Sgot nothing to do with them being Japanese. The climate in the north of Japan has similarities to the UK - the cars are made in the knowledge that they have snow and salt, and they rot there. Cars made in the US rot like buggery in the US. British cars have always rotted regardless of the weather. They will rot indoors in a climate controlled bubble! The brackets are not unsafe yet, but they will get that way. They may well corrode where the bolt threads are in contact and the bolts could just jump out without warning.
    • So unsafe would you say now?   little bit of has come off, guess road salt is a nightmare for Japanese car. Mx5 here have a well known issue or rotting 
    • Dissimilar metal corrosion. Aluminium is less noble than steel/iron, and will corrode preferentially when in contact with it and a conductive solution (ie, wet road salt). Tends to suggest that those brackets should be made in steel for a shitty climate like the UK.
×
×
  • Create New...