Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've also gone over the car and come up with all the damage that exists on the car. To date, the following images show damaged body work. Unfortunately, it appears that most of the damage has come about from the previous storage of the car under a car cover. There's also an interesting hit on the front bar and of course, scuffs on the front lip. There's also a dead bug in one of the headlights. Uggh.

 

 

20190429_131823.jpg

20190429_131829.jpg

20190429_131850.jpg

20190429_131859.jpg

20190429_131958.jpg

20190429_132018.jpg

20190429_132010.jpg

20190429_131945.jpg

20190429_131736.jpg

Edited by Steve85
2 hours ago, ActionDan said:

God damn, would you detail this car please and shine up all the blacks and plastics etc. 

You're killing me.

Bahahaha, No. Just for that. I'm gonna not do it. 

But seriously, it is on my list, and it was pretty clean before the cruise, it's just that things get dirty, especially when you use them. :D

And compared the mess the house is in (thanks two small children) the car isn't nearly as bad. Also, I mowed my concrete (thought of you as I did it!). 

Paid a photographer to capture some images of the stock GTR and of my LM. I spent the entire day cleaning the pair of them. Lots of elbow grease involved. 
@ActionDan please see blacked out parts of the car. I hope this meets your standards? ?

IMG_7644.jpg

IMG_7739.jpg

  • Like 2
Just now, ActionDan said:

We're making progress. Just need to gloss up that lower lip and your tyres. 

Big points for no plate in the rolling shot. 

Yeah, that's on me. I cleaned and blacked them up prior to leaving for the shoot, then promptly forgot to redo them just before we started... oops. Still, they came out just fine. 
And yeah the plates. I bloody hate them, they make the cars looked bucktoothed. :(

1 minute ago, ActionDan said:

Also please post close ups now you've cleaned it properly. 

Engine bays and interiors are the two places that I find low K's cars really shine. 

 

Unfortunately, we didn't grab many close ups. (we were short on time/daylight):

*Side note, found a bloody dint in the car. Much sadness (but it should be an easy fix).

IMG_7618.jpg

IMG_7619.jpg

IMG_7620.jpg

  • Like 1

See how this guard doesn't quite look right? The curve is slightly interrupted. There's a parking ding or something similar in the guard. It's kind of just pressed in, paint isn't scratched, the actual shape is just interrupted. Like i say, i'm sure someone who knows what they're doing will be able to fix it no problem from the inside of the guard. 

Having spent the whole day cleaning it, I can also confirm about 10 spots in the paint that aren't perfect. Not bad, just little surface scratches or scuffs. Will need a good polish and should be ok. 

 


 

IMG_7619 - Copy.jpg

10 minutes ago, ActionDan said:

Looks great, i would not have picked the guard in the pic without highlighting it. 

SHOW INTERIOR AND ENGINE BAY

Ummm, we didn't get any. :(

If I take some tonight will you forgive me? I'm sure I can get some half decent ones. 
Also I drove the silver one... Jesus it's slow. Absolutely nothing under 3k rpm. You gotta absolutely give it the business for it move. It's all top end. 
We did uncover that the LM in second off boost at 20kph is as quick as the Stock on boost in first and second to 110kph. After the LM climbs on boost and grabs third though... gooooone.

Edited by Steve85

hahah great testing and yes stock GT-Rs are pretty shit. I still feel like the chassis wants at least 400rwkw to be "lively". I know I wanted more in mine at 380, so maybe 450 is the right number? 

Just when you can, I am just trying to live vicariously through you. 

 

  • Haha 1
Just now, ActionDan said:

Just when you can, I am just trying to live vicariously through you. 

I think we all do this with each other. There was a point in time when I was living through your posts of the Silver R34. :D

Glad I could provide some useful content. 

Maybe one day I'll buy a 35 and then we can watch me realise how far out of my mechanical depth I would be, would be a great build lol. 

With my dirt road in and out of my property though not likely :(

Edited by ActionDan
  • Like 1
1 hour ago, Steve85 said:

Paid a photographer to capture some images of the stock GTR and of my LM. I spent the entire day cleaning the pair of them. Lots of elbow grease involved. 
@ActionDan please see blacked out parts of the car. I hope this meets your standards? ?

IMG_7644.jpg

IMG_7739.jpg

WOW!!! That is all. :-)

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's it. Too rich for me. I'm out. If it does start to sell in pieces, I'll probably register an interest in the diff & axles, gearbox & tailshaft, and maybe the brakes.
    • I tried my best, well I see how it is though... It's time to be ruthless! I'll up my bid with a JVC sub and an amp to run it, 8 stainless steel drink coasters with a rubber backing, and a photo of Tom Cruise. Oh, I can increase the cash portion by 20 cents if that helps. 
    • Or if it's grey, is it watery? Does it do it after you've been for like an hour long drive it will still do it, or just near the start of the trip? As GTS said, does it seem like oil (blue), water (white/grey) or fuel (black)? Sometimes the colour can be hard to see clearly too for what it is, as GTS says, what's it smell like?
    • I wonder if part of it has to do with when you've each bought the kits. I honestly have the feeling that the silicon joiners in the 2000s were actually better quality than most of what you can find these days. Even in the same brands. Everyone racing to the cheapest price while still trying to make profit means lower quality parts. For coolant, I personally would be going with rubber, OR, converting the radiator and engine to use the huge AN fittings hose for radiators.
    • If shift solenoid A is bad, that explains limp mode --- now you're in the same position as I mentioned previously, in that the next step is to confirm loom/wiring integrity from TCU to gearbox connector with a multimeter (the TCU cannot detect a broken wire, which can happen ..ie; rodent damage, loom rubbed through)...and then finally measure resistance (at the gearbox connector) for shift solenoid A ... ...once you confirm shift solenoid A is bad (open circuit, really low or greater than 40ohm resistance), then it's a job ; you have buy a complete solenoid set, get under the car and drop transmission oil pan, and remove valvebody assembly (the solenoids sit on top), replace solenoid set, and reassemble....it's not exactly a fun task, but readily doable.
×
×
  • Create New...