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1 hour ago, mlr said:

Bin the front diff, I had 380ish RWD, that was pretty fun.....while it lasted.......

You can relive that dream, just buy mine. I'll tune it before you take ownership :)

Should pump out a good 430kW or more, great for Powercruise

  • Haha 1
14 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

You can relive that dream, just buy mine. I'll tune it before you take ownership :)

Should pump out a good 430kW or more, great for Powercruise

Maybe, at the end of the year, if it turns into a mint 1970's Toyota Crown, I reckon a Crown with a old 2J would be sweet.

Or a Barra in it, to keep my inner bogan happy.

33 minutes ago, mlr said:

Maybe, at the end of the year, if it turns into a mint 1970's Toyota Crown, I reckon a Crown with a old 2J would be sweet.

Or a Barra in it, to keep my inner bogan happy.

I approve of the Barra. 

Why go an old engine that's missing a whole litre of displacement? 

  • Like 1

Hey lads brasil trip has been pretty damn crazy so far and found myself in a favela for a good week...now in santa Teresa at a real nice pad and heading out for a boat party tonight. Military police stormed the favela Saturday morning and gunfire for a good 5-6 hours. They were back at it again on sunday morning just after I left on a motorbike.

So anyway GTR made 360awkw with 20psi in the low end , falling off to 17psi in the top end. Scott thought might be the gates holding it back. Anyway, looks like this motor makes grunt & should keep me entertained !! 

  • Like 2

Might be the best -7 result seen here? 

The head will play a big part and will also be why the boost tapers off up high, that's a sure sign the turbos are not able to keep up wit hthe head flow. 

More than enough for you for now, don't kill yourself, here or over there ;)

 

  • Like 1
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Interesting dan.... yes I do know the head was ported and polished, I think 360 is probably pushing the car as far as it can go without major upgrades like sequentials and diffs etc, should be fun!

A Quaife front diff should come in the passenger seat of every GTR. One of the best (and relatively cheap) mods you can do to these dinosaurs. You think you can get on the power early now Benny... get one of those in and giggle. ?

6 hours ago, BakemonoRicer said:

Interesting dan.... yes I do know the head was ported and polished, I think 360 is probably pushing the car as far as it can go without major upgrades like sequentials and diffs etc, should be fun!

The egine, box, and rear diff will all comfortably handle 360rwkw. Turbos won't like it though and as Piggaz said, the front diff may not be happy if you are pushing the car often, definitely avoid 4wd donuts. 

The rest of it will be quite happy there, with the exception of cooling as the twins, being pushed hard, will be quite hot so you would want to keep a close eye on intake temps and EGTs just for safety. Will be fine for the street unless you Fast and Furious everywhere, but you would want to limit consecutive hotlaps at the track (though with the current ambients you will get away with it for a while). 

Enjoy :)

 

Dan I thought 20-17psi would be quite comfortable for the twins ? Piggaz if I had the money I would, at least I’m one carton of corona richer now...lol

anyway dan will keep in mind, and I’m not planning to track the car btw...no way do I want to risk binning it. Will take it easy and learn the car...

  • Like 1

You're confusing manifold pressure with actual turbine flow. 

All "boost" tells you, on your guage, is what pressure is in the manifold above atmospheric. 

It doesn't tell you how much lb/ft per min the turbo is actually flowing or how hard it's working to get there, thats' what compressor maps are for. 

This is why EFRs like turbine wheel speed sensors as they are a bit touchy with over speeding. 

A setup measuring 20psi on -7s with big cams will have the turbos working MUCH harder to maintain that 20psi in the manifold as the cams are flowing all that air out much faster than a car with stock cams which can keep manifold pressure up easily as the head can't flow it out. A good sign the turbos are well and truely overwoorked is big boost taper in the upper RPM, turbos simply cannot keep up so they are effectively maxed out, pushing more hot air. If your turbos are in a safer range they will be able to maintain boost to redline, they are not being out flowed by everhthing else. 

Which is why people who get hung up on how much "boost" a car is running to make a given power are idiots, because wuthout knowing what turbo is on the car and what flow potential the setup has, it actually means SFA. 

 


 

Edited by ActionDan
  • Like 4

Without cam gears and on a good flowing head it will have cost you some "boost" response, as in how high and how early a boost gauge reads, but that doesn't mean it's lost you on road response. You may well find it similar up to say 60-90km/h but beyond that the difference will be stark. 

As above the head is just flowing out everythhing the turbos can throw at it. so it will be making as much power as the turbos can make as fast as they can allow it to be made. 

If you want to improve turbo response, as in get them spinning faster sooner, you want good manifolds and pods, cam gears, and good intake piping.You're chasing 5-8% though realistically. 

My car had the cast N1 manifolds which I found good, a nicely divided y pipe, which is proven to help, and any dash setup with decent boost should be on pods, we picked up 14rwkw by switching to big pods alone at similar power levels to where you are now. Don't beleive all the BS about the stock airbox being fine, at this power it's a restriction end of story.

That was with -9s which are a touch bigger and slower, but have higher compressor flow. 

 

Edited by ActionDan
21 minutes ago, BakemonoRicer said:

Nice information Dan, makes sense....

im really interested to see how “responsive” the car feels compared to Paul’s EFR setup

A good comparison would be to my poverty poor person 2.5L spec single GTX3576R Gen 2 setup.

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