Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone. Bit of an issue with my R33 gtst series 2 1996. Whilst sitting in my driveway my car stalls consistently at 4 mins and 26secs. Has very good idle and then the engine just cuts out with no gradual drop in idle. Some times idle gets a bit funny when I brake for lights and turning also. Bought the car about 3 months ago and since taken the boost controller and turbo timer off. Otherwise stock turbo, ECU, turbo smart BOV (full recirc)  etc. PLEASE HELP. Thanks :) 

I have a feeling you need to get it re-tuned after removing the mods. Happened to a friend.

Also try remove the battery and leave it unplugged overnight then reconnect next morning to reset factory settings.

18 hours ago, Robocop2310 said:

I have a feeling you need to get it re-tuned after removing the mods. Happened to a friend.

Also try remove the battery and leave it unplugged overnight then reconnect next morning to reset factory settings.

 

8 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Is the car running any form of aftermarket alarm or immobiliser? 

I removed the immobilser a couple weeks ago... I’ve been told you can only tune with an after market ECU? Nisstune, link etc.? 

Ive tried disconnecting the battery overnight also.

Very frustrating! Additionally to above, I tend to lose power at around 4-5000 rpms. Best explanation is that it feels like it’s chocking... 

49 minutes ago, sedy said:

This happened to me and after trying everything it turned out to be a cut exhaust temp sensor.

I’ll have a look tomorrow! Still have the cut off at 4.26. Fuel pressure regulator was faulty so im hoping fixing that fixes my lack of power at high rpm and high fuel consumption (200km to a tank). See how I go...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Way more than 1cm. Appreciate the advice maybe I try changing the bushing first
    • IMG_8641.mov     She doesn’t sound the best but starts with out using any gas now. I just ran some injector cleaner through her. started roughly the first time after adding it but gave it the beans slowly upto 4k, Must have cleaned a few cobwebs out. another step in the right direction for the sub
    • Sadly I can confirm if you are actually seeking to drift, you will quite easily spin up one wheel. Even if you're going in a straight line. I am not entirely sure of the metrics/terminology here but there's only a certain amount that the helical will actually spin both wheels. I've seen it on video with my own car where two lines of smoke switch over to just one after you really get in to it. Unlike with a clutch diff where you can keep your foot planted until the car regains grip, in my experience with the helical you want to be utilizing traction control allowing LIMITED slip or lifting (partially) when you start to spin up both tyres with a Nissan helical. Which makes them pretty sub optimal for drifting duty. That said... this is probably a helical on numbers alone. Just put the Kazz in
    • Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.
    • Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.
×
×
  • Create New...