Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You’re right, the turbo did sound whistley  on the drive up to the mapper and doesn’t sound half as bad now.

The turbo did over come the leak but at the cost of working harder. Surely it would have build boost differently to if the gasket wasn’t leaking? That’s the best thing about analogue gauges as you can observe fluctuations and trends, digital doesn’t really let you see that unless you are logging...

  • 1 month later...

So I got a pal of mine who’s mapped a few Emanage ultimates to plug his lap top into the Emanage to see if there was anything untoward or just to look at the map (it’s just numbers to me) .

I was a bit out off at the shock he was in as he said that it was retarded across the entire rev range, also, the afm was selected as a standard afm and not as a z32 one which I have, the injectors were also standard when they should have been selected as 440cc.

We took it out with his wide band stuffed up the exhaust ?

He said it was really rich, we got back to mine and he tested the lambda sensor, it was “flatlined” so that needs replacing. 

The only thing that I can confirm is that the brown plug behind the drivers headlight does not lock the timing at 15 degrees when it’s unplugged but does lock the auto box in third as I asked him to measure it. So that is good for mapping on the dyno I guess.

So, I’m going to get a new sensor and ask him to have a crack at mapping it. Or at least ask him to take another look.

Will report back... ?

 

Just for reference its this brown plug ?

A5A3C3C0-9124-4BE2-ADAE-2DB78B5921CD.png

  • 1 month later...

Quick update..

So the car go’s to a show this weekend and I know driving without a decent map could be engine suicide but I’ve had the fuel curve looked at and have been assured that’s it’s safe and there’s so much timing pulled out of it that it won’t det so I’ll trundle down to the show.

Took it out this saterday just gone to make sure everything is just so and ended up forgetting that it shouldn’t be thrashed until it’s been looked at properly and gave it the full biscuit... to my surprise it took off like hell in the night, it felt like it did previously, like before I lost the 58hp the only thing I’ve done recently is stop the re circ from the cam covers to the intake and blank off the lines from the plenum to carbon canister (now gone). I’m not complaining but I’d like to know what the hell is going on still, maybe the maf needs a clean? It is third hand so I may try that.... I’m getting it totally looked at early next month, the entire shooting match mechanically and ECU side by somebody that is very familiar with the emu and can spanner as well....

Will report back...

Edited by paulzy123
Spelling
  • 1 month later...

Hi,

The problem is fixed, I took it to a mate of mine that mapped his own car on the Emanage ultimate. He spent a good long time looking at the wiring. The injector earth wire had a dry joint in the pin in the loom connector and eventually snapped when we went to road map it so that got a new soldered lug. The lambda sensor was goosed so that got replaced. The SAFC 2 I was using to monitor knock still had a map on it and was wired in series with the Emanage wiring which was causing issues so the AFM side of it got removed, the AFM (z32) was spiking at 3.8 volts then dropping to 2.8volts straight after which was also causing problems so he “clamped the voltage?” Apparently it’s not to be used as a permanent fix it’s till I buy another AFM. We spent a couple of hours driving around and doing pulls while he sat on an ancient laptop typing and clicking away saying, “try that” and “do that again” until he turned to me and said right let’s turn the boost up. 

At 18 psi it felt immense and it really was quick enough but he said I could go more so I did but in the end I settled at 19psi as upping it more didn’t seem to feel any quicker. All in all I was on the road around four hours and in his garage at least a day ?

Its quite quick now, well for an auto.

Well, that concludes my thread, thanks for all your advice and help ?

Cheers

Paul

  • Like 4

All's well that ends well. One lesson to be learned is that its very hard to guarantee  a good tune. The tuner might be over -rated, or a shop with a good reputation may hand the job to an employee who is not up to par (although one would like to think that such a person would have their work checked). One thing is for sure a good tune takes time and money!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
×
×
  • Create New...