Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Wolf 3D v4 ecu - standalone plug in for the R33 gtst. In good working order; also comes with 2 versions of the PC software (later version obviously more features, 3d mapping, and datalogging), 2x base maps, and an ecu>laptop cable with a QUALITY usb>serial converter cable (the white n blue one with gold connectors in the pic, is as-new, and was $70ish just for the cable). $300, and can post anywhere in Aus at buyer's expense, or pickup if local.

20181212_180532.thumb.jpg.669c8a7b89bfd25928dc8db6d81ec0fc.jpg20181212_180601.thumb.jpg.45f58faae07b38aa45ee690e03632a03.jpg20181212_180612.thumb.jpg.7986fe2192908bb496c55d3d7b1f7ab5.jpg20181212_180542.thumb.jpg.d9eb62b0548aeb5b9bf2caeac61b4ba4.jpg

1729969019_wolfmap.thumb.JPG.1bf59c211000636aa74336fabb5d0fda.JPG

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475607-wolf-3d-v4-plug-in-ecu-for-r33/
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, hardsteppa said:

Neni muj bratr...will work, but i believe would need some changes to wiring so not "plug in"

Thanks for that. Not sure what you said at the start though. 

hi, there is a tune on the ecu to start the car as long as still using OEM trigger, cas etc (all bets are off if you have changed from oem trigger setup). 

the tune is not mine - I had started the car with it but never got around to getting any real tune done with it on my car, hence me saying they are base maps with it. I was advised it was tuned for

" the engine is pretty much stock, with a minor upgrade on the turbo, running a RB20DET wastegate controller. VCT is controlled via relays activated by AUX outputs of the Wolf, but the VCT solenoid wasn't working properly last time the car was on a dyno. "

You WILL need to have it tuned; it's not a stock ecu, driving round on an untuned aftermarket ecu is engine-suicide. Just don't want any confusion about what i'm selling it as.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...