Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi ! Still pretty fresh to the forums but I've got an issue in my series 2 skyline sedan. I've hooked up a keyless entry unit and tapped into the signal wires on the smart entry box located under the steering column. The fob works and sends signal to lock and unlock all the doors , that's all good and well, but the problem is the drivers door doesn't respond.

 

I can use the key on the drivers door and it'll lock/unlock all the doors including the drivers one but when I use the switch by all the window switches etc to lock and unlock the doors it works on every door except the drivers one.

 

When I lock and unlock the door from the handle on the inside it'll lock and unlock all the other doors.

 

I have tested the unit on the passenger side and have confirmed it's working. I have tried running power to it manually and no dice, becoming a bit of a headache and really dont want to run an aftermarket actuator when I know there's nothing wrong with the factory one.

 

Sorry for the long read, if ya need any more info I'll reply as soon as I can. Hoping someone else has had this problem and I've just missed something stupid, cheers (:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475618-driver-side-door-lock-actuator-r33/
Share on other sites

What factory one?  They don't have them!!  The driver's door is the master.  You turn the key and a mechanical linkage unlocks the door.  The switchbox detects that and passes it to the passenger door controller & the one and only actuator in the car opens that door.

Search and see.  Here's a clue. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475597-clifford-alarm-install-on-r32/?tab=comments#comment-7893615

 

where the plug goes into is what I believe to be an actuator? Seems to have 2 wires that switch between 12volt current for whichever state (locked/unlocked) and then two other 'signal?' wires that emit 0.1 volts between each state too, I'll upload a video to youtube and put the link here IMG_20181214_175032.jpeg

Um....didn't know the R33s had a driver's side actuator. R32s certainly don't.  They're only useful if the car has keyless entry, which was not common in either of their vintages.

If it's stuffed, you could still follow my advice & just fit a generic actuator.

8 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Um....didn't know the R33s had a driver's side actuator. R32s certainly don't

something something technical advancement something? :4_joy:

I can't really help though, perhaps a wire from the door switch has been cut, I do know that due to some sort of security vulnerability with these switches a lot of people have disabled them but mine already came like that so can't really help sorry, except to recommend to trace all the wires to and from the actuators,  control box and switch to see if something has been cut.

  • Like 1
Um....didn't know the R33s had a driver's side actuator. R32s certainly don't.  They're only useful if the car has keyless entry, which was not common in either of their vintages.
If it's stuffed, you could still follow my advice & just fit a generic actuator.
Didn't watch any of the videos? yeah they've got one and yeah I've got keyless entry. No it's not broken.
something something technical advancement something? :4_joy:
I can't really help though, perhaps a wire from the door switch has been cut, I do know that due to some sort of security vulnerability with these switches a lot of people have disabled them but mine already came like that so can't really help sorry, except to recommend to trace all the wires to and from the actuators,  control box and switch to see if something has been cut.
yeah everything looks to be in good working order in the door, unless it's been cut in the cabin, I'll have a look tomorrow
  • 2 weeks later...
Hi Tailz,
I'm having the exact same problem with my 33 gtst locking.
Any update on the cause/fix?
hey mate have been on holiday so haven't really gotten anywhere on the situation yet , going to leave it til when I get back, if you sort the problem before me could ya share the solution , best of luck , cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
    • Holy hell! That is absolutely stunning! Great work!!!
    • It does when you start adding everything else in. But it's not just compute. It's the logic. Getting your timing right (I'm not meaning ignition timing for the engine). Making sure of your memory mappings, seeing your interrupts. Microcontroller devices only have so much capacity. For the most part, you want all those timers and interrupts in use on your engine control, which means you're left with less than ideal methods for timing and management of other control functions.   Let's put it this way, my job is all about building custom hardware, that goes into cars, and integrates with them. We're also waiting on a media confirmation from SpaceX too fora world first we've just completed with them in NZ too. It's not just the little toys I play with. But you know, you can think and believe what you want.
×
×
  • Create New...