Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi ! Still pretty fresh to the forums but I've got an issue in my series 2 skyline sedan. I've hooked up a keyless entry unit and tapped into the signal wires on the smart entry box located under the steering column. The fob works and sends signal to lock and unlock all the doors , that's all good and well, but the problem is the drivers door doesn't respond.

 

I can use the key on the drivers door and it'll lock/unlock all the doors including the drivers one but when I use the switch by all the window switches etc to lock and unlock the doors it works on every door except the drivers one.

 

When I lock and unlock the door from the handle on the inside it'll lock and unlock all the other doors.

 

I have tested the unit on the passenger side and have confirmed it's working. I have tried running power to it manually and no dice, becoming a bit of a headache and really dont want to run an aftermarket actuator when I know there's nothing wrong with the factory one.

 

Sorry for the long read, if ya need any more info I'll reply as soon as I can. Hoping someone else has had this problem and I've just missed something stupid, cheers (:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475618-driver-side-door-lock-actuator-r33/
Share on other sites

What factory one?  They don't have them!!  The driver's door is the master.  You turn the key and a mechanical linkage unlocks the door.  The switchbox detects that and passes it to the passenger door controller & the one and only actuator in the car opens that door.

Search and see.  Here's a clue. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475597-clifford-alarm-install-on-r32/?tab=comments#comment-7893615

 

where the plug goes into is what I believe to be an actuator? Seems to have 2 wires that switch between 12volt current for whichever state (locked/unlocked) and then two other 'signal?' wires that emit 0.1 volts between each state too, I'll upload a video to youtube and put the link here IMG_20181214_175032.jpeg

Um....didn't know the R33s had a driver's side actuator. R32s certainly don't.  They're only useful if the car has keyless entry, which was not common in either of their vintages.

If it's stuffed, you could still follow my advice & just fit a generic actuator.

8 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Um....didn't know the R33s had a driver's side actuator. R32s certainly don't

something something technical advancement something? :4_joy:

I can't really help though, perhaps a wire from the door switch has been cut, I do know that due to some sort of security vulnerability with these switches a lot of people have disabled them but mine already came like that so can't really help sorry, except to recommend to trace all the wires to and from the actuators,  control box and switch to see if something has been cut.

  • Like 1
Um....didn't know the R33s had a driver's side actuator. R32s certainly don't.  They're only useful if the car has keyless entry, which was not common in either of their vintages.
If it's stuffed, you could still follow my advice & just fit a generic actuator.
Didn't watch any of the videos? yeah they've got one and yeah I've got keyless entry. No it's not broken.
something something technical advancement something? :4_joy:
I can't really help though, perhaps a wire from the door switch has been cut, I do know that due to some sort of security vulnerability with these switches a lot of people have disabled them but mine already came like that so can't really help sorry, except to recommend to trace all the wires to and from the actuators,  control box and switch to see if something has been cut.
yeah everything looks to be in good working order in the door, unless it's been cut in the cabin, I'll have a look tomorrow
  • 2 weeks later...
Hi Tailz,
I'm having the exact same problem with my 33 gtst locking.
Any update on the cause/fix?
hey mate have been on holiday so haven't really gotten anywhere on the situation yet , going to leave it til when I get back, if you sort the problem before me could ya share the solution , best of luck , cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't do it if your gearbox box has already having syncro issues. The short hifter will put a greater load on them. If you must I remember Nismo did a shorter shifter, with the top part being physically shorter and the part that went into the gearbox was the same as stock. In saying that I've had a C's short shifter (I think) in mine for many years, which was given to me as the previous owner was not sympathetic to the gearbox. Thus forwarned I was careful and had to modify my normal changing style. You have to be super accurate with your clutch and shifts
    • Well, after a week of daily driving and having to crawl out between the wheel and the side intrusion bars. I got myself a quick release setup. I went with an NRG short hub and Quick Release with some cute heart cutouts on the pull tabs. Nice and matchy matchy with the rest of the interior accents I have going on.  The only downside is the total stack height even with the short adapter is longer than the old HKB boss kit. Luckily I had some adjustment left on the column so move the wheel away.
    • stock shifter with new bushes, springs and cup will improve it. Gktech do all the bits. The opinion as the years have gone on is the redline is not great in old gearboxes.
    • Hi all   what short shifter do you use on your skykine r34?   my synchronous does have a problem and i was getting huge delay and grinding sound between 2nd and 3rd, did put shockproof red heavy stuff and it is great now/ no issues   would in your view short shifter screw this up?   people seems to suggest/ use cube short shifter and there is standard and premium. Seen review of premium as much better and less play. Thoughts?
    • Yeah, there's a bit of a density and friability difference between pebbles and any of those other things. Silicone will definitely float in oil and so will be mobile enough to move around. Although, again, if it is upstream of the filter it really shouldn't go any further. I would only ever worry about silicone when it is in places downstream of the filter. Upstream of the pickup is a whole 'nother matter. We've all seen what that does. I have seen the most abominable crap settled out in industrial gearboxes, trunnion lube systems and the like, without any sign that any of it has touched anything in the machine. Just chilling in the bottom, waiting for the inevitable operator error that causes the whole machine to need to be dismantled for repairs.
×
×
  • Create New...