Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

I've been lead to believe by my tuner that my VVT cam gear is making some noise. Around 5000rpm every single pull a noise is picked up by the knock sensor, which keeps going until about 5500rpm at which point it stops, and the ECU sometimes thinks it's knock and pulls timing to compensate. Tuner seems to think it is my intake cam gear, and believes it may be getting a bit noisy for some strange reason. Noise has been described to me almost as a "ddddrrrrrrdrrrrrdrrrrdrrrrrrrrdrrrrrrrr" (best way I can describe it on here) and happens every single pull. Can only be heard through the knock sensor which makes diagnosing it a real pain, as putting it on the dyno every time I replace a component is not even remotely practical. Normally this would not bother me enough to pursue, but because it is affecting how the car drives on some pulls, it's not something i'm happy to leave alone.

He has also suggested that it could potentially be a lifter, but that seems very unlikely as these cars have solid lifters off memory. 

So I contacted Nissan, and am unable to get a brand new intake cam gear for less than $1,200 which is absolutely absurd. So i'm now contemplating other solutions to my problem, and have been thinking I would actually be better off going aftermarket cams with adjustable cam gears. However my setup is still relatively stock with a few bolt ons (front mount, exhaust, cold air intake, nistune ecu, stock turbo, stock injectors etc).

So my questions really are:

1. Are there any other suggestions for what this noise could be?
2. What other solutions would I have rather than paying $1,200 for a gear from Nissan?
3. Would going cams on a setup as stock as this even be worth it?
4. How much power would I lose if I just went adjustable cam gears on the stock cams?

On a side note, I have recently replaced the cambelt with a GATES timing kit as I was lead to believe that could have been the culprit. Mechanic told me the previous cambelt had not been done very well, and had likely been overtensioned. So this rules out the cambelt or any related tensioners to it, but could reinforce the idea of the cam gear being the culprit?...

Appreciate any and all feedback!

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475719-rb25det-neo-cam-gears/
Share on other sites

What other solutions would I have rather than paying $1,200 for a gear from Nissan?

part No. 132025-5L301 should be what you need. Available from AMAYAMA approx $854  14 days delivery but run your vin number to be sure.

 Mechanic told me the previous cambelt had not been done very well, and had likely been overtensioned. So this rules out the cambelt or any related tensioners to it, but could reinforce the idea of the cam gear being the culprit?... This statement set the bullshit meter to high. The camshaft sprocket rotates on a substantial journal which is how the VCT moves it. It is more likely the VCT internals are making the noise...they are not rebuildable

 

11 hours ago, Rusty Nuts said:

Have you tried replacing the front knock sensor they rarely go wrong but shit happens.

Appreciate the replies I will look into the part! And no I havent replaced the knock sensor. It appears to be working as intended so have had no reason to replace it. My main concern is that is a massive amount of cash to fork out to only “potentially” fix an issue. But I may just have to bite the bullet.

1 hour ago, AngryRB said:

Strange the noise is only at 5k, when mine needed replaced it was rattling loud at cold start idle speed.. 

I got mine thru kudos motorsport around the $850 if I remember correctly.

No audible noise whatsoever at idle or outside the car. Listening to it pulling on the dyno you’d never know and the power/torque curves are fine which makes it even stranger. I’m worried at the fact he thinks it “might be” the culrpit. So difficult to diagnose as every time i replace something it would have to be chucked back on there to listen for the issue again.

Once came across a Neo that had a lifter bucket that would "cock" slightly in the bore and jam a few thou low which caused the lobe to slap hard against the shim. Changed the shim and it stopped doing it. The old shim had a substantial mark on it.

12 minutes ago, Rusty Nuts said:

Mate, don't discard the faulty knock sensor suggestion. Search this site for Faulty Knock sensor there are eight pages of issues experienced , some very similar to what you are experiencing

You think the knock sensor could potentially just be having a meltdown and pinging which is what he is hearing? That would make life a hell of a lot easier.

1 hour ago, Rusty Nuts said:

Once came across a Neo that had a lifter bucket that would "cock" slightly in the bore and jam a few thou low which caused the lobe to slap hard against the shim. Changed the shim and it stopped doing it. The old shim had a substantial mark on it.

This has completely lost me here haha, i know a fair bit about the workings of motors but am lost as to what you’re talking about here haha. Any more idiot-proof way of putting it?

so you’re thinking is it’s more likely to be something else rather than the cam gear, as most past experiences had an audible noise at idle?

Thanks heaps for your help so far too.

Oh wow have had a read of the knock sensor threads. Only thing is my tuner can hear it when listening in through headphones to the sensor? Or would the sensor potentially be magnifying the feedback that was just normal engine vibration and that’s what he’s hearing?

i’d think he’d have suggested this to me though? He has a hell of a lot of experience with skylines and is a very respected tuner in NZ.

 

The knock sensor is tuned to detect the engine knock/detonation frequency, when they shit themselves they detect other frequencies as knock. Your tuner is hearing noise which is possibly fooling the sensor (and him?)

1 hour ago, Rusty Nuts said:

 

The knock sensor is tuned to detect the engine knock/detonation frequency, when they shit themselves they detect other frequencies as knock. Your tuner is hearing noise which is possibly fooling the sensor (and him?)

That's assuming he is listening to the factory sensor. Ask if he used it or his own sensor when tuning to rule out this possibility.

21 hours ago, Ben C34 said:

That's assuming he is listening to the factory sensor. Ask if he used it or his own sensor when tuning to rule out this possibility.

I believe he is using the factory sensor.

Do you guys happen to know what sensors are compatible for the 25det neo? Can i just get any neo knock sensor as a replacement? Or must it be 25det? 

19 hours ago, Rusty Nuts said:

I'm assuming nothing of the sort, regardless how the tuner is listening its the output of the factory knock sensor that is signalling the ecu to pull timing

Yeah that makes sense. Just weird to not have any CEL's or anything like that, but from what those other threads said it doesn't appear that they throw codes. Am I right in saying there are 2 knock sensors on the car? And if so, would you recommend replacing both of them, or just the one he is listening in on? May have to look around some wreckers for one and fingers crossed it helps!

Yep, there are two, the most common ones used are Part No. 2206059S00 they are used on multiple Nissan engines RB's and VG's. New between $160 and $180 but grab a couple from the wreckers, take one of yours as a sample. I'm running RB30 ones in my 25/30 and ecu is happy. There's a pair for sale on ebay for $14 the guy is in Bundaberg gotta be worth two schooners.

s-l1600.jpg

  • Like 1
3 hours ago, Rusty Nuts said:

Yep, there are two, the most common ones used are Part No. 2206059S00 they are used on multiple Nissan engines RB's and VG's. New between $160 and $180 but grab a couple from the wreckers, take one of yours as a sample. I'm running RB30 ones in my 25/30 and ecu is happy. There's a pair for sale on ebay for $14 the guy is in Bundaberg gotta be worth two schooners.

s-l1600.jpg

Bugger i’m from New Zealand :(. I’l have to scout a few wreckers out online from here and hope to come across some. Am tempted to just go brand new to eliminate the issue but I guess that’s pointless as I still don’t definitively know what the issue is!

Thankyou heaps for your help so far. Will likely have sorted some by the end of the week. Only issue is i’l have no idea if they’l fix the problem until its back on the dyno :(

17 hours ago, Rusty Nuts said:

Why not a nice bit of straight road surely you could feel the timing being pulled.also( Maybe the guy on ebay posts to NZ)

I’ve never actually felt the timing pull noticably. To me it feels smooth and constant. I don’t believe it pulls timing every time, just occasionally.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...