Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

does anyone know how the side intrusion bars fit in when u have to put them in for compliance, if anyones noticed how it was done, when u were changing speakers or something, whether the inside of the door had to be chopped or something?

or does ne1 know somewhere that will just tick my 15 yr old, off in nsw, without worrying about them? its the only thing i'm not sure about is how they do it with the door skin on, without wrecking the paint? can u screw them on?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47572-side-intrusion-bars/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You can buy a kit, it has telescopic bars so you can fit them through the hole on trhe inner door skin. Then expand them inside the doors. They can then be easily bolted into place at the front and rear of the doors, around the lock and hinge positions. Before you ask, I don't know where to buy them. :)

From my experience most bars are fabricated as required, You will need to contact your local authority to get accurate details of what is required in your state.

Good luck.

Yep that used to be the case, but some people saw a chance to make money and so they made universal, easy to fit ones. :(

thanks for that guys, don't know why they weren't there in the first place from the factory, cos if u get in an acco, and get a door from japan, no-ones going to put side intrusion bars in.

if you had an accident the new door would have factory intrusion bars ..its LAW..thats why they make everyone put bars in pre 91 when it became world standard

frankly anyone that dosen`t want door bars fitted is a fu*kwit anyway..

what about you passenger ...

if you had an accident the new door would have factory intrusion bars ..its LAW..thats why they make everyone  put bars in pre 91 when it became world standard

frankly anyone that dosen`t want door bars fitted is a fu*kwit anyway..

what about you passenger ...

true but if u got a second hand door pre 91, then it wouldn't have them, I don't like being called an fwit u mofo, but even still u r right.

if you bought it from a reputable wrecker it would its LAW for FU*K sake

i fit bars for all pre 91 doors sold by alljap spares in bris n/side..its a massive fine if they don`t

and OK i`ll take back fu*kwit ...i`m just sick hearing about DODGY dealers/importers when theres just as many DODGY customers...ie signed off with no bars...i really hope that engineer does not exit... it arseholes like you trying to skirt the most basic safety item with no thought to passengers or the next owner make me sick...fortunately as far as this forum is considererd your a minority ...maybe you should try another forum if want help with illegal activity

Hi,

I need to find out basicly the same thing. but i want to find who i get them off, who fits them if i shouldnt do it myself and does who ever sell them sell the other parts that ill need to get a R32 ready to be certified?

Can somone give me a number that i can call for advice in rellation to buying some sort of kit or package that has all the parts that i will need or who the name of the distributor is who does those sort of parts?

Im from up in Rockhampton btw so the nearest supplier if you can help me.

thanks

Hi,

I need to find out basicly the same thing. but i want to find who i get them off, who fits them if i shouldnt do it myself and does who ever sell them sell the other parts that ill need to get a R32 ready to be certified?  

Can somone give me a number that i can call for advice in rellation to buying some sort of kit or package that has all the parts that i will need or who the name of the distributor is who does those sort of parts?

Im from up in Rockhampton btw so the nearest supplier if you can help me.  

thanks

if you want your 15yr old car professionally complied in brisbane..pm me with model details for a price

the stick up ur arse has a stick up its arse, i just want to get the thing on road asap, because at the moment i'm riding a pushie to work, ang sick to death of it, i don't want any problems. if u get t-boned ur likely gonna die anyway, and besides the main thing i wanted to know was how they were done, so i can PUT THEM IN. i think u are obviously the one in the wrong forum, seeing as u drive a stagea

  • 2 weeks later...
the stick up ur arse has a stick up its arse, i just want to get the thing on road asap, because at the moment i'm riding a pushie to work, ang sick to death of it, i don't want any problems. if u get t-boned ur likely gonna die anyway, and besides the main thing i wanted to know was how they were done, so i can PUT THEM IN. i think u are obviously the one in the wrong forum, seeing as u drive a stagea

:P You my friend are a complete tool, I think you should stick to your "pushie".

Guys

Re side intrusion bars - give ISASO (on the web) a call, I got my bars for my R32 GTR from them and with freight to canberra it cost me $280. It is a very easy job to fit them your self, but you will need some basic tools and a welder.

It is very easy to do - I did both my doors in about 3 1/2 - 4 hours (having no idea where to start!!) do a search on 15 yr old compliance (or something like that) and you will find a detailed thread I made.

enjoy.

I am looking at getting my Cefiro's doors done at A&B Auto in Bayswater, WA. They have quoted $150 a door, plus $150 to remove all the doors to do the work. Now is it neccessary to remove the doors? I had a Silvia that had Intrusions put in and Id didnt look like the doors were removed for that. Any advice whether or not they need to do this? Also their Engineers fee is $280 (incl paperwork and VIN stamping) so do you think by doing the doors myself (Old lady's BF is a Boilermaker type bloke) that they might not want to sign off on them?

JK

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I just got to work and skimmed through 61508 and 61511. I was surprised the CSA adopted both, but neither are enforced. To recap what I read, it states that in a perfect world, they should be segregated but they acknowledge that this is not industry standard and clearly mention that they allow mixing of safety and non-safety. 61511 also mentions software segregation like AB does in their safety PLC's.   Now if only I could go back to control, let alone safety over comms. In my current line of work, we're only allowed monitoring over comms. Everything critical must still be hard wired.
    • I've unfortunately never been as they're on the complete other side of the continent and another country that isn't currently letting us in as easily as they use to. I even heard their stop signs over there actually say "Stop" instead of "Arret". If I decided to trek the 48h drive, I wouldn't know when or where to stop haha. Whenever I order parts from UP Garage, I order from Japan as it's cheaper. Same with GKTech... oddly enough, it's cheaper shipped from Australia then it is the US.  UP Garage Japan operates their US leg though, unlike Tomei. If Tomei JPN had the power to close down Tomei USA, I'm sure it would be done in a day. They're two completely separate entities. Tomei JPN messed up somewhere originally agreeing to its creation and got sacked big time. 
    • I asked someone about this and he told me about the Audi 1.8T engine. But I think it would be difficult to swap
    • I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
×
×
  • Create New...