Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi SAU, happy NY to you all.

I'm looking into a power upgrade for my 32gtr, educating myself on options. I've done a fair bit of reading on SAU and elsewhere, and now I'm hoping to get some advice about turbo selection from experienced folk here.

Currently running:

Mild 2.6L with forged pistons and rods, fresh mild ported head, oem cams, adj. cam gears, JUN oil pump, extended sump, oem cold side, N1 turbos. With supporting mods this is good for a modest 281kw at the wheels on 98.

Goal:

380-400kw at the wheels, with a nice wide torque band and response that is no worse than current, and preferably better. This is a regularly driven street car that will see the odd squirt here and there, cheeky track days etc.

Some considerations:

I think I'd rather go EWG and get the manifold + wg + bov stuff done, in preparation for an engine refresh inc stroker upgrade in future.

 

Some of the thoughts/suggestions so far:

EFR7670 ewg 1.05 - highly responsive but limited to around 350-360kw on 2.6Ls?

EFR8374 ewg 1.05 - good power but better suited to 2.8L?

GTX3576R GEN II 1.06

 

Thanks in advance!

Edited by shodan
Hi SAU, happy NY to you all.
I'm looking into a power upgrade for my 32gtr, educating myself on options. I've done a fair bit of reading on SAU and elsewhere, and now I'm hoping to get some advice about turbo selection from experienced folk here.
Currently running:
Mild 2.6L with forged pistons and rods, fresh mild ported head, oem cams, adj. cam gears, JUN oil pump, extended sump, oem cold side, N1 turbos. With supporting mods this is good for a modest 281kw at the wheels on 98.
Goal:
380-400kw at the wheels, with a nice wide torque band and response that is no worse than current, and preferably better. This is a regularly driven street car that will see the odd squirt here and there, cheeky track days etc.
Some considerations:
I think I'd rather go EWG and get the manifold + wg + bov stuff done, in preparation for an engine refresh inc stroker upgrade in future.
 
Some of the thoughts/suggestions so far:
EFR7670 ewg 1.05 - highly responsive but limited to around 350-360kw on 2.6Ls?
EFR8374 ewg 1.05 - good power but better suited to 2.8L?
GTX3576R GEN II
 
Thanks in advance!
Go with the 8374. You will NOT be disappointed

Not likely a 7670 would be limited to 350 or 360. 

My stock donk Evo 9 makes 325kw with 500nm by 4000rpm with 24psi. A well setup 7670 should blow around 420kw "all in" give or take. 

Id say 8374 if you were prepared to go V cam. But i personally think itd be a bees dick too big for a nice street setup. 

Though in saying that itd still be on around the same time if not sooner than a set of 9s or 7s ?

 

15 hours ago, Mick_o said:

Not likely a 7670 would be limited to 350 or 360. 

My stock donk Evo 9 makes 325kw with 500nm by 4000rpm with 24psi. A well setup 7670 should blow around 420kw "all in" give or take. 

Id say 8374 if you were prepared to go V cam. But i personally think itd be a bees dick too big for a nice street setup. 

Though in saying that itd still be on around the same time if not sooner than a set of 9s or 7s ?

 

This part might explain the power targets: Mild 2.6L with forged pistons and rods.... on 98

If 98 is a restriction than that kind of power with "no worse than current" response is impossible.

That said, something 8374 sized is going to be a minimum requirement if 98 is a must have. With an 8k rev limit the 8374 is going to be my vote too. I had a 7670 on a 2.8 and it was nosing over up top at about 6800rpm.

This was OK for me as mine was a RB25 based 2.8, not a RB26 based motor.

This may or may not be perfect if you prefer revving to 7500 instead of 8500 depending on the kind of RB26 owner you are ?

To be on the safe side of everything I would be thinking something 8374 sized is likely the best compromise of running things with safe overheads.

6 hours ago, Lithium said:

This part might explain the power targets: Mild 2.6L with forged pistons and rods.... on 98

Ahhh Fuark what a dope...  Missed that bit! ?

Well then if 98 definately 8374 1.05 ?

23 hours ago, Mick_o said:

Not likely a 7670 would be limited to 350 or 360. 

My stock donk Evo 9 makes 325kw with 500nm by 4000rpm with 24psi. A well setup 7670 should blow around 420kw "all in" give or take. 

Id say 8374 if you were prepared to go V cam. But i personally think itd be a bees dick too big for a nice street setup. 

Though in saying that itd still be on around the same time if not sooner than a set of 9s or 7s ?

 

Yeah sorry, didn't really make it clear I'm not running E85- fuel system upgrade is another phase for the future.

My N1s would be similar to 7s I guess, so I could live with similar performance. From the EFR threads I read several positive comments re pre-spool transient response

Edited by shodan
7 hours ago, Lithium said:

This part might explain the power targets: Mild 2.6L with forged pistons and rods.... on 98

Thanks for pointing that out Lithium. I averaged that figure from anecdotal comments, from the EFR threads here and elsewhere. Can I ask about your experience or knowledge of cars with either 7670s or 8374s on stock capacity RBs? , you seem to be fairly involved with car dev in NZ

On 1/8/2019 at 2:05 PM, HarrisRacing said:

Go with the 8374. You will NOT be disappointed

I'm not at all surprised at your response 

7 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

If 98 is a restriction than that kind of power with "no worse than current" response is impossible.

That said, something 8374 sized is going to be a minimum requirement if 98 is a must have. With an 8k rev limit the 8374 is going to be my vote too. I had a 7670 on a 2.8 and it was nosing over up top at about 6800rpm.

This was OK for me as mine was a RB25 based 2.8, not a RB26 based motor.

This may or may not be perfect if you prefer revving to 7500 instead of 8500 depending on the kind of RB26 owner you are ?

To be on the safe side of everything I would be thinking something 8374 sized is likely the best compromise of running things with safe overheads.

Yeah 98 for now. E85 sometime in the future.. Good advice thanks mate. I did read your EFR thread comments about the 7670

3 hours ago, burn4005 said:

8374 because eventually you'll want e85 and 480kw+

 

I had 400kw, got over it and now I have 500kw. I like 500 better.

Haha I'm sure that's exactly how it goes. I have been considering it for sure. Just wondering if I'm better off with the 7670 for a boost in response now, (and live with reduced total power) then moving to an 8374 when i eventually go 2.8.

  • Like 1
6 hours ago, shodan said:

Where do these fit in the Garrett pecking order? Better than GTX? different?

Brand new release for 2019 and improved over GTX range i believe.

Although have not seen any real world data just yet.

Yeah sorry, didn't really make it clear I'm not running E85- fuel system upgrade is another phase for the future.
My N1s would be similar to 7s I guess, so I could live with similar performance. From the EFR threads I read several positive comments re pre-spool transient response
I'm telling you...the 8374 will CRUSH your N1s on boost threshold, response, overall power, midrange torque etc...yes on even a stock 2.6

I have a car with new -7, fresh motor, camgears, haltech. Then I just installed a .92 8374 efr on a stock 2.6 car. No kidding the efr absolutely destroyed them both as a better operating engine. I think it's pointless to go with anything smaller to be honest because you really don't spool any faster...only reduce topend.
  • Like 1
On 1/9/2019 at 7:47 AM, Kinkstaah said:

This may or may not be perfect if you prefer revving to 7500 instead of 85009500 depending on the kind of RB26 owner you are ?
 

Fixed that for you

Mate of mine is doing a 26 7670 build should be running in the next few months, will be interesting seeing how it goes compared to my 8374. Can't say i'm 100% convinced its the better option for pure street duties, though wouldn't go a 7670 for the track etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...