Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi SAU, happy NY to you all.

I'm looking into a power upgrade for my 32gtr, educating myself on options. I've done a fair bit of reading on SAU and elsewhere, and now I'm hoping to get some advice about turbo selection from experienced folk here.

Currently running:

Mild 2.6L with forged pistons and rods, fresh mild ported head, oem cams, adj. cam gears, JUN oil pump, extended sump, oem cold side, N1 turbos. With supporting mods this is good for a modest 281kw at the wheels on 98.

Goal:

380-400kw at the wheels, with a nice wide torque band and response that is no worse than current, and preferably better. This is a regularly driven street car that will see the odd squirt here and there, cheeky track days etc.

Some considerations:

I think I'd rather go EWG and get the manifold + wg + bov stuff done, in preparation for an engine refresh inc stroker upgrade in future.

 

Some of the thoughts/suggestions so far:

EFR7670 ewg 1.05 - highly responsive but limited to around 350-360kw on 2.6Ls?

EFR8374 ewg 1.05 - good power but better suited to 2.8L?

GTX3576R GEN II 1.06

 

Thanks in advance!

Edited by shodan
Hi SAU, happy NY to you all.
I'm looking into a power upgrade for my 32gtr, educating myself on options. I've done a fair bit of reading on SAU and elsewhere, and now I'm hoping to get some advice about turbo selection from experienced folk here.
Currently running:
Mild 2.6L with forged pistons and rods, fresh mild ported head, oem cams, adj. cam gears, JUN oil pump, extended sump, oem cold side, N1 turbos. With supporting mods this is good for a modest 281kw at the wheels on 98.
Goal:
380-400kw at the wheels, with a nice wide torque band and response that is no worse than current, and preferably better. This is a regularly driven street car that will see the odd squirt here and there, cheeky track days etc.
Some considerations:
I think I'd rather go EWG and get the manifold + wg + bov stuff done, in preparation for an engine refresh inc stroker upgrade in future.
 
Some of the thoughts/suggestions so far:
EFR7670 ewg 1.05 - highly responsive but limited to around 350-360kw on 2.6Ls?
EFR8374 ewg 1.05 - good power but better suited to 2.8L?
GTX3576R GEN II
 
Thanks in advance!
Go with the 8374. You will NOT be disappointed

Not likely a 7670 would be limited to 350 or 360. 

My stock donk Evo 9 makes 325kw with 500nm by 4000rpm with 24psi. A well setup 7670 should blow around 420kw "all in" give or take. 

Id say 8374 if you were prepared to go V cam. But i personally think itd be a bees dick too big for a nice street setup. 

Though in saying that itd still be on around the same time if not sooner than a set of 9s or 7s ?

 

15 hours ago, Mick_o said:

Not likely a 7670 would be limited to 350 or 360. 

My stock donk Evo 9 makes 325kw with 500nm by 4000rpm with 24psi. A well setup 7670 should blow around 420kw "all in" give or take. 

Id say 8374 if you were prepared to go V cam. But i personally think itd be a bees dick too big for a nice street setup. 

Though in saying that itd still be on around the same time if not sooner than a set of 9s or 7s ?

 

This part might explain the power targets: Mild 2.6L with forged pistons and rods.... on 98

If 98 is a restriction than that kind of power with "no worse than current" response is impossible.

That said, something 8374 sized is going to be a minimum requirement if 98 is a must have. With an 8k rev limit the 8374 is going to be my vote too. I had a 7670 on a 2.8 and it was nosing over up top at about 6800rpm.

This was OK for me as mine was a RB25 based 2.8, not a RB26 based motor.

This may or may not be perfect if you prefer revving to 7500 instead of 8500 depending on the kind of RB26 owner you are ?

To be on the safe side of everything I would be thinking something 8374 sized is likely the best compromise of running things with safe overheads.

6 hours ago, Lithium said:

This part might explain the power targets: Mild 2.6L with forged pistons and rods.... on 98

Ahhh Fuark what a dope...  Missed that bit! ?

Well then if 98 definately 8374 1.05 ?

23 hours ago, Mick_o said:

Not likely a 7670 would be limited to 350 or 360. 

My stock donk Evo 9 makes 325kw with 500nm by 4000rpm with 24psi. A well setup 7670 should blow around 420kw "all in" give or take. 

Id say 8374 if you were prepared to go V cam. But i personally think itd be a bees dick too big for a nice street setup. 

Though in saying that itd still be on around the same time if not sooner than a set of 9s or 7s ?

 

Yeah sorry, didn't really make it clear I'm not running E85- fuel system upgrade is another phase for the future.

My N1s would be similar to 7s I guess, so I could live with similar performance. From the EFR threads I read several positive comments re pre-spool transient response

Edited by shodan
7 hours ago, Lithium said:

This part might explain the power targets: Mild 2.6L with forged pistons and rods.... on 98

Thanks for pointing that out Lithium. I averaged that figure from anecdotal comments, from the EFR threads here and elsewhere. Can I ask about your experience or knowledge of cars with either 7670s or 8374s on stock capacity RBs? , you seem to be fairly involved with car dev in NZ

On 1/8/2019 at 2:05 PM, HarrisRacing said:

Go with the 8374. You will NOT be disappointed

I'm not at all surprised at your response 

7 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

If 98 is a restriction than that kind of power with "no worse than current" response is impossible.

That said, something 8374 sized is going to be a minimum requirement if 98 is a must have. With an 8k rev limit the 8374 is going to be my vote too. I had a 7670 on a 2.8 and it was nosing over up top at about 6800rpm.

This was OK for me as mine was a RB25 based 2.8, not a RB26 based motor.

This may or may not be perfect if you prefer revving to 7500 instead of 8500 depending on the kind of RB26 owner you are ?

To be on the safe side of everything I would be thinking something 8374 sized is likely the best compromise of running things with safe overheads.

Yeah 98 for now. E85 sometime in the future.. Good advice thanks mate. I did read your EFR thread comments about the 7670

3 hours ago, burn4005 said:

8374 because eventually you'll want e85 and 480kw+

 

I had 400kw, got over it and now I have 500kw. I like 500 better.

Haha I'm sure that's exactly how it goes. I have been considering it for sure. Just wondering if I'm better off with the 7670 for a boost in response now, (and live with reduced total power) then moving to an 8374 when i eventually go 2.8.

  • Like 1
6 hours ago, shodan said:

Where do these fit in the Garrett pecking order? Better than GTX? different?

Brand new release for 2019 and improved over GTX range i believe.

Although have not seen any real world data just yet.

Yeah sorry, didn't really make it clear I'm not running E85- fuel system upgrade is another phase for the future.
My N1s would be similar to 7s I guess, so I could live with similar performance. From the EFR threads I read several positive comments re pre-spool transient response
I'm telling you...the 8374 will CRUSH your N1s on boost threshold, response, overall power, midrange torque etc...yes on even a stock 2.6

I have a car with new -7, fresh motor, camgears, haltech. Then I just installed a .92 8374 efr on a stock 2.6 car. No kidding the efr absolutely destroyed them both as a better operating engine. I think it's pointless to go with anything smaller to be honest because you really don't spool any faster...only reduce topend.
  • Like 1
On 1/9/2019 at 7:47 AM, Kinkstaah said:

This may or may not be perfect if you prefer revving to 7500 instead of 85009500 depending on the kind of RB26 owner you are ?
 

Fixed that for you

Mate of mine is doing a 26 7670 build should be running in the next few months, will be interesting seeing how it goes compared to my 8374. Can't say i'm 100% convinced its the better option for pure street duties, though wouldn't go a 7670 for the track etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...