Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had a problem at work the other day, and had a pretty simple fix...then that night was dreaming about my favourite subject :BIG brakes :whackit:

Anyway with problems of work fresh in my mind, i thought about another advantage of running bigger rotors which on paper perhaps makes sense, but have no idea if their is a real world difference.

Im about to buy a new set of 2-pce rotors for my car, and was going to use DBA 5000, Pt No. 5600.1 which are 324 x 30mm thk rotors.

Obviously being 2pce they will be lighter then my current 1pce rotors and should cool better so its all good. So from a thermal perspective im not concerned about having to go bigger.

However if you have a larger rotor then the friction point of the pad onto the disc is going to be further from the disc centre. So that means for the same brake pedal/caliper pistons force exerted on the rotor you will be able to apply more torque to the spinning rotor, giving you superior stopping power/control?!?!?!?!

Imagine you bike wheel spinning, it takes less effort to stop the spinning wheel if you cusp your hands over the tyre as opposed to an inch away from the spline that the wheels spns on. Kinda obvious but i had never considered it before when lookiggn at rotor sized etc etc. :)

So looking at the HSV rotor 343 x 32mm thk, may mean a custom hat...and i will need a custom mount for the caliper anyway? The place im speaking to feels they will be able to get 355mm rotor under the 17" wheel.

So basically if temps isnt a problem, is there any added control, stopping power advantage using a 343/355 rotor.... and is it worth the expense :confused:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/47599-larger-front-rotors/
Share on other sites

Hi Roy, the leverage effect of larger diameter rotors (even with the same pad dimensions) is quite noticeable. You don't get something for nothing though, you do loose a bit of pedal feel. I am still using standard GTST callipers with standard dimension DBS slotted rotors on ours. The tyres are limiting factor, as to how well it stops, and that's using Yokohama A032R's in the soft compound ie; even after 10 laps I can still lock the wheels with excessive brake application. :)

SK, don't say stuff like that......Roy has a massive brake fetish and you're just spoiling it. Make something up, go on, be nice.:rofl:

I'd comment but it would all be theory and would have suggested more feel rather than less, so I'm all ears since my initial instinct were wrong.

From a cycling perspective, since I was a pro cyclist, most good riders only use the front brake and stiffer calipers and NC machined rims have improved feel immeasurably, but the introduction of discs for MTB has been treated like the second coming of Peter Brock. Not comparing apples with apples but it is a massive diameter reduction and swept area reduction. We used to have big probs with melting tyre glue for the "singles" that use glue and pressure to hold them on during long mountain descents. Result was a rolloff from the rim and sudden pain....everywhere.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh yeah forgot to also mention need to also unplug the IACV as well. Thanks for the reminder @MBS206 Unplugging the TPS takes it out of closed loop so you're able to screw down the IACV without the ECU trying to add/subtract timing to maintain the idle (not sure PowerFC can even do this, but Nistune and the OEM definitely does)
    • For sale is my 1999 Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T, tuned to 234 kW / 313 hp. I've had the car for a few years as my daily driver. The car is original (as far as Skylines go), with only a few minor upgrades to enhance performance and driving experience, as typical for such a car of its age. Overall, it is in great condition with no body rust, thanks to its earlier import date. It features a top-notch security system (not literally, but it's great!) with remote start and still functional 4-wheel steering via HICAS. It comes with several performance and handling upgrades, including:     Hypergear 450HP Turbocharger running 17 PSI boost, installed mid-2021 by Jaustech     550cc injectors     Nistune ECU     Front-Mount Return-Flow Intercooler     X-Force Stainless Steel Exhaust     Upgraded engine mounts     Bottom end bearings replaced     BC Coilovers     Lenso DR1 rims     Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE003 TL 245/40R18 97W tires, fitted early 2023 The interior is mostly stock, with a few additions:     Viper Satellite Tracking System with remote start     Bluetooth Double-Din Touchscreen Head Unit     Steering wheel cover Cons:     A few paint imperfections here and there     Driver’s seat shows more wear than the others. It's not torn at all, but I've added a seat cover to protect its condition. I also have a CarVX Vehicle History report available for serious buyers, so you don’t need to purchase it yourself. Price: $26,000 ONO.
    • I've had two suzukis in the past have an extremely hard time turning over and not starting after sitting for a few weeks. Ended up the alternator would seize up causing the starter to force. Same issue both times.  Maybe they're sourcing their alternators from the same place...
    • Ah right. Maybe my rb just loves chewing through batteries lol.
    • On the R34 can't you just unplug the IACV? This is the way I've always done it on the R33. Disconnect IACV, get it idling around 650rpm, and then do a power reset on the ECU to get it to relearn idle (factory ECU).   The big reason no one has touched on as to why you'd want to get the base idle right, is that it means the computer needs to make smaller adjustments to get a good idle at 700-750rpm.   Also, cleaning the IACV won't normally make the car suddenly idle lower or higher. The main issue with the IACV gumming up is that the valve sticks. This means the inputs the ECU gives, aren't translating to changes in air flow. This can cause idle choppy ness as the ECU is now needing to give a lot of input to get movement, but then it moves too far, and then has to do the same in reverse, and it can mean the ECU can't catch stalls quickly either.
×
×
  • Create New...