Something bad happened.. stalled engine.. won't even turn over.. full charged.. bang noise try start

[ifixedit]

  On 25/02/2019 at 1:10 PM, Slap said:

As far as im able to tell.....Those timing cam gears are completely misaligned if you have that at tdc cyl. The dots on the teeth of the gears should align to the whitelines on the back cover as they indicate where the markers are approximately.

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Yes. The dots should align with cam gears when the crank position at TDC.

I was making the point the cams are in alignment with themselves maybe 1-2 teeth out..

But still most importantly the crank is out of alignment in relation to the cams.

I will stick a camera probe into the sparkplug holes and inspect today..

Hope to have head off by weekend.. slow goings...

[Slap]

Did you try turning over the motor with a socket before you pulled the belt. Just in case.

If you were on decel the belt most likely slipped the inlet cam making it retarded.
If the belt slipped but after 2 years hmmm.

At first sounded a bit like a corrupted battery. But usually they won't even click till jumpstart then click.

Was there anything unusual with the car just before it happened?

Don't turn any of the cams or crank until you have an idea on it.

Need to get it to tdc gently as possible both crank and cams... slowly turn bit by bit one then the next and so on to keep them from banging the valves.

Good luck.

[Slap]

Ok sorry I've read too many posts lately.
I see you did.

Usually to crack the bolt on the crank you use a big bar and lay it hard against the chassis near the air filter so it's locked in place when on the crank then a real quick clik the starter to crack the bolt.
That won't work in this predicament.

Slowly turn each one bit by bit starting at the inlet then zorst then crank. Gentle slow lil by lil. Cyl by cyl

[ifixedit]

I got the bolt off combo of impact ratchet and a long pipe on a ratchet.

I use a 10mm bolt in the crank pulley and wedged with a breaker bar.

The bolt was on there good and tight! Took a fair bit of force bit of CRC and patience she finally gave way.

I will eventually get the crank pulley off and attempt to get engine and cams into position for rebelting and see if it will turn over..

Use a probe camera to try and inspect the piston tops for gouging.

I'll report here hopefully later this week..

[GTSBoy]

  On 26/02/2019 at 2:36 AM, ifixedit said:

I got the bolt off combo of impact ratchet and a long pipe on a ratchet.

 

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Mental note: Don't use a ratchet.  The ratchet can only handle so much torque before you'll shred the teeth off of it.  This is why breaker bars exist.

[Slap]

Good luck with it.
A puller is about 50-60 bucks.
Use those two tens on long bolts to plate, plate with center thread hole , tighten a bolt in it upto the crank bolt location using a cap on the bolt end to suite [taper or flat] so not to wreck the crank bolt hole or damage the crank.
Don't use a gook type puller as it can damage the pulleys.

[ifixedit]

  On 26/02/2019 at 2:59 AM, Slap said:

Good luck with it.
A puller is about 50-60 bucks.
Use those two tens on long bolts to plate, plate with center thread hole , tighten a bolt in it upto the crank bolt location using a cap on the bolt end to suite [taper or flat] so not to wreck the crank bolt hole or damage the crank.
Don't use a gook type puller as it can damage the pulleys.

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Thanks for comments slap.

Hey the bolt can be threaded into the crank a few turns?

It's got the guide in the centre of the bolt?

It's funny how you see people using those triangle g hook type on YouTube..

[Slap]

Yeah leaving the bolt in the crank a bit works good.

[ifixedit]

Hey all.

Dunno if I mentioned that I put a camera down the pistons haha all stuffed inside valves stuck pistons. One piston has a hole in it..

 

Anyways I spend an hour trying to seperate the engine and gearbox..

Got the engine crane attached. Brought a beautiful chain for lifting too

With some gentle and some not so gentle shaking of the two..

Seems it came apart maybe 8-10mm only. Seem to be having trouble getting them fully apart

It's a manual gearbox for the rb25det neo.

I've removed all bolts.. seems something inside (clutch area) is holding it from coming out.

Is there something I've forgotten or do I keep trying to seperate the two.

 

Edited March 4, 2019 by ifixedit

[GTSBoy]

Gearbox input shaft is probably fairly firmly in the clutch.  If there are no bolts still holding the gearbox to the engine, no earth straps, starter motor, etc, then it can only be the input shaft.  You may need/want to release the gearbox crossmember and support the box on a trolley jack so you can change the angle of it to help it disengage.

[ifixedit]

Thanks GTSboy

I will have a fiddle tomorrow.. thanks for the idea.. 

[KiwiRS4T]

Don't be shy use a pry bar to separate them!

[ifixedit]

I don't want to apply too much force..

Can I ask about the thrust bearing? Inside the bell housing. I remember this was a key point to removing a gearbox

[r32-25t]

It’s probably a pull type clutch and needs the bearing to be disengaged from the the pressure plate 

[iruvyouskyrine]

Yes it is absolutely a pull type clutch and needs releasing before the gearbox will come off, i hope you weren't too rough with it as they aren't very strong and wouldn't be surprised if the clutch is now toast too.

You should consider changing your forum name ?

[GTSBoy]

  On 04/03/2019 at 10:18 PM, iruvyouskyrine said:

You should consider changing your forum name ?

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Only have to change one "i" to a "u".

[ifixedit]

It's all good.

I jigged a little but nothing too crazy.. upon releasing the pin they finally split.

Clutch and flywheel are fine. Took then off and gave a clean

the gearbox would have had a little bit of jiggling but I am sure it's fine

 

thanks for not believing in me! Haha